mc drive sprocket interference

[69charged]

hello guys. i am building a mountain sled out of a zr style chassis. anyway, i bought a 05 m7 153" rear skid and the track off it too. i also bought a drop and roll kit from fabcraft to move the chaincase down an inch and back a 1.5 then i bought whal bros 8 tooth anti slip sprockets. sized it all up tonight and it will hit the drive sprocket! what gives. it shouldn't matter about the drop and roll at all. and i checked the parts diagram and it shows that a m7 uses 8 tooth anti ratchet sprockets as well. i am not missing anything am i? either i get 7 tooth anti ratchet drivers or i go 159" and move the rear skid back.
i would like to use what i have so throw out some suggestions about what is wrong with this picture.
thanks guys
clarence

 

[Pumpkinpatch]

Typically if you move the drivers down and back with a D&R, you will have to move the rear skid back the same distance to keep the drivers from hitting the tips of the rails. Make sure that if you do move the rear skid, you mount in the correct location on the front and rear points so the suspension geometry works right.

P.P.

 

[69charged]

but the track came from a 153" m7 and the rear susp. also. so it should still all fit well. i have the adjusters all the way undone and it moved as far back as possible that the track will allow.

 

[76FOMOCO]

The 8 t extros on a mc will hit the rail even without the d and r. take off the plastic tips and shorten the rails if needed, put on a stab kit and set the skid back. Or just set the skid back all the way with out cuting the rails like above. You can go to the 7 t drivers but this will mess with the gearing.

 

[69charged]

i have the rear skid all the way back now and am hitting. i have never heard of a stab kit but will look into it. i thought of cutting the rail but am considering a 159" track then just move the skid back.
how does it fit on the m series then with all the same dimensions and driver size? what sled it is in shouldn't matter should it?

 

[HILCLMR]

Did you bolt the new skid into the mountain cat holes? If so you will need the measurements for the mounting holes from driver to front arm, and like it was mentioned earlier if you drop and roll move the skid back the same amount. You really need to make sure your front arm holes are the correct distance and plane as your driveshaft.

 

[69charged]

you guys are all right. i do have to move the skid back if i drop and roll but what i am saying is i dont even have the bolts in the skid yet cause i cant get it that far up in the tunnel because it hits. know what i mean? lying on my side using my arm to lift the skid to get ready to put in the bolts the rails hit. i am using my foot to push the skid as far back as the track will allow. the track just isn't physically long enough. but i can't understand why as stated in my earlier post.
any other input?
clarence

 

[HILCLMR]

Can you ratchet strap the skid so it's compressed? if so try that. I would recheck the rail part numbers make sure they are for a 153, check the track part number. You did move the rear idlers towards the front of the skid. If all your part numbers match then check your drivers, are they 3 pitch? different diameters between 3.0 and 2.52 even tho they have the same tooth count.

 

[69charged]

yeah they are 3" pitch. just got them. they are whal bros anti slip ones. rear wheels are all the way in. i will double check part numbers as you suggested. i never really thought about compressing the susp. to get it in there. i'll check it tonight and get back.
clarence

 

[sledneckbrd]

Might want to check and see if the plate on the inside where your front holes bolt up there should be one or two more holes you can drill out to drop your suspension down. If there is then you can do that but I think you have to put rear drop brackets on. I did that to my kingcat and it worked just fine.

 

[diggerdown]

Find an M7 and measure the bolt holes, back and down from the front axle. If you drill them the same they will go. They run too close in the M's to begin with, so trimming the rails tips would be a good idea.

 

[76FOMOCO]

cutting the rail will help but make sure to put on a sab kit from slp. the 3.0 are prone to this. even more so with the rails cut and no sense on damaging the new track/windshield/yourself.

 

[69charged]

yeah i was wondering about the rear drop brackets. i am not sure how far down to go as i will be making my own. i am aiming to keep the rails flat on the ground when the sled is sitting there or maybe a little raised in the front portion of the rail. i haven't tried any more work on it yet in terms of the interference issue but.....

 

[untouchable]

I put a 156"X2.5 on mine with 7 tooth extros. I set the whole suspension back 3" and made a set of drop brackets that lowered the rear arm 1.5" and I moved the hole location the same 3" back. I had clearance problems like you were talking about with the rails but the 3" setback solves that. I did run into a problem when I moved the suspension back, since I changed the fulcrum point of the suspension it was way too stiff. I found a chart online with all the AC rear torsion springs that were ordered from stiffest to lightest. It ended up being a set of springs off a '94 Cougar. Who would of thought? But it works great and I have plenty of clearance and adjustment left. I could email you pics if you want.