With all the problems of belt life on the 1000's, I just noticed something,,, it seems when you route an exhaust over the area where the belt holder is could this possibly change the structural integrity of the belt ??? I noticed this in the for sale section, seems and maybe with aftermarket pipes only, that they seem to lay real close to the spare belt, knowing what kind of heat the exhaust can generate, just curious..
May I pose a question???
- Thread starter KMMAC
- Start date
2
I was considering the same thing as the one belt lasted 350 to 400 miles and the new one that was on the belt cover only lasted 100miles I don't normally keep a good belt there just chit ones but the sled was new soo what could u do
S
I have belt issues and it happens to new belts on 3 ocasions for me that go right from the dealers rack to the clutches. I vented the pizz out of my new m1000 and just burnt up my 4th belt yesterday. The sled now has 286 miles on it. Alignment was good and the engine is toed in 43 thou for torque variance. I'm just pissed about it and dont know what to do. Thinkin about gearing it down as the next option. I will be riding my D&D 900-m7 for the rest of the season to save some money. Ive put over 650 miles on the belt thats in that1.........
B
Alignment and belt deflection is the key. I have noticed on a few M1000's that the deflection is way too tight. If you sit there and idle your sled a lot, the primary is rubbing the belt constantly. I have always used the rule of thumb that when the back of your sled is off the ground, the track should just creep. I have seen some that are moving way to fast. Also, use the side vents. A/C would install them if they didn't have all of the EPA and sound regs to deal with. Get that heat out and make sure your clutch is set up properly.
L
the heat from the exhaust i think is a problem with the belts for sure, if you take your set off and you can fit the spare belt under it in front of the tool kit fits there very nice. i am running the M8 belt and have had very little problems with them. the venting is a must to keep the clutches cool heat is your worst enemy when it comes to clutching and belt life.
On the money. I just keep my spare in the trunk. Vent, Vent, Vent. There is a perfect location in your shock tower to install an SLP flo-right that rushes air directly on your belt as it turns over the front of your primary. Tension is key, and easy to adjust. Lift your track off the ground and keep it suspended, engage the clutches so it's in gear, then place a straight bar from clutch to clutch and press down on the belt in the middle. The guys at SLP say if you apply roughly 10 lbs. of pressure you should get about 1 1/2 inch of sag, give or take a little. If you're too tight pull the bolt on your secondary and remove a shim, or if you're too loose, add a shim. Just play around and try a few things. Might I also suggest a 40/36 progressive helix. Just switched mine and the performance gains are incredible.
K
I really find it hard to beleive that heat from the pipe is doing damage to the spare belt.
Think about it, the Velcro strap is in about the closest proximity to the belt... I have never had the velcro even come close to melting... Spare belt is new, not broken in... No marks, no signs of excessive heat, etc.
I really feel for the guys having issues... I have an 08, and I toasted my first belt, 060 (without venting) it was heavy deep snow and it was warm weather... I chalked that one up to abuse on my part.
Since then I switched to the 046 with lots of venting... Got 700 miles or more on the next belt... It started to pull a cord one of the first rides this season but it was worn big time, width was waaay narrower than stock, that belt never came apart... Looked like even wear to me.
I think the flowrite(s) in front of the primary helps a lot... I also drilled holes in the back edge of the side cover... they are open and no snow gets in.
I have noticed that you can do all the venting you want, but there is very few places for the air to exit.
I set deflection a little on the loose side and have not had any issues.
Never have checked alignment... If it aint broke, don't fix it right?
Think about it, the Velcro strap is in about the closest proximity to the belt... I have never had the velcro even come close to melting... Spare belt is new, not broken in... No marks, no signs of excessive heat, etc.
I really feel for the guys having issues... I have an 08, and I toasted my first belt, 060 (without venting) it was heavy deep snow and it was warm weather... I chalked that one up to abuse on my part.
Since then I switched to the 046 with lots of venting... Got 700 miles or more on the next belt... It started to pull a cord one of the first rides this season but it was worn big time, width was waaay narrower than stock, that belt never came apart... Looked like even wear to me.
I think the flowrite(s) in front of the primary helps a lot... I also drilled holes in the back edge of the side cover... they are open and no snow gets in.
I have noticed that you can do all the venting you want, but there is very few places for the air to exit.
I set deflection a little on the loose side and have not had any issues.
Never have checked alignment... If it aint broke, don't fix it right?
0
I don't understand why there are huge variations in belt life on these sleds. Do you guys break in your belts properly? I have about 300 km on my sled and no belt issues so far, no venting whatsoever. I know some guys have had deflection and alignment issues, but I think checking belt deflection is key. I don't think heat from the pipe plays a part. Hope someone can figure this one out.
I'm not sure if the heat from the pipe would effect the belt? I'm gonna guess and say no. I blew the heck out of my 1st belt after 60 miles of crazy deep powder right after christmas. I was breaking trail all day and I expecting it to blow. I haven't had any belt problems on my '09 since. I've got two SLP flow rights in the shock tower and side vents. I do run my belt rather tight. The ribs on my belt are above the sheaves on my clutch and when hot, it will give off a little squeak. Maybe I need to put in a thinner shim???
Currently running 400 miles on the 046. Paid $79.99 at the dealership and I bought 4 of them thinking I'd be blowing belts often. I'm also running a 44/36 helix from SLP. This is the only way to go and this sled pulls much harder than with the straight 36 helix. When compared to the same sled with same venting, the sled with 44/36 did have cooler clutch and belt temps.
Currently running 400 miles on the 046. Paid $79.99 at the dealership and I bought 4 of them thinking I'd be blowing belts often. I'm also running a 44/36 helix from SLP. This is the only way to go and this sled pulls much harder than with the straight 36 helix. When compared to the same sled with same venting, the sled with 44/36 did have cooler clutch and belt temps.
belt life
Still running same 046. Only 350 miles but it's still in one piece. 56/64 gears. Don't know if that's the difference but I don't think it hurts. Interested in learning more about the helix. Is 40/36 the way to go? Still not too sure what the diffferent numbers do for you? Will changing the helix make the secondary backshift quicker?:beer;
Still running same 046. Only 350 miles but it's still in one piece. 56/64 gears. Don't know if that's the difference but I don't think it hurts. Interested in learning more about the helix. Is 40/36 the way to go? Still not too sure what the diffferent numbers do for you? Will changing the helix make the secondary backshift quicker?:beer;
S
i have never heard of breaking in belts. what do you do and dose it realy make that big of a difference.
P
I put 50-80 miles on a new belt before I even get past half throttle. That is what the first snows are for. Ride 50 or so miles on the trail at half throttle (with a few cracks of full throttle every 4-5 miles), take it off and put on another new belt and go thru the whole process again. You have to put the belt thru the heat cycle so it gets conditioned. It sucks and takes time but, it has to be done. I have 1155 mile on the original belt! It's a little narrow now, so I just swaped it out with a new one I broke in a couple months back. I have never checked alignment. You can't put a new belt on and go break trail all day and expect it to last. You are on and off the throttle so much it just ruins the belt The belts I have been running are the 060's.
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There's way more room between the belt cover and pipe with my SLP than there ever will be with the stocker.
Add some venting, get your clutches CLEANED and aligned.
Draw 4 lines in black marker on each belt sheave (from the center straight out to the outer edge, run it a bit.
You'll be able to see where you have to move the secondary.
Break in new belts on your way back to the truck.
Add some venting, get your clutches CLEANED and aligned.
Draw 4 lines in black marker on each belt sheave (from the center straight out to the outer edge, run it a bit.
You'll be able to see where you have to move the secondary.
Break in new belts on your way back to the truck.
C
Never have seen the nylon Velcro strap that holds the spare belt on the clutch cover melt so I don't believe that the exhaust heat is going to hurt your spare belt.:beer;
Some of it has to do with riding style as well, never checked cluth alignment. 350 miles on a 060 with some serious abuse and just started pulling cords now have 180 miles on 046 looks great but think the 060 performs better on the 09 and seems smoother.
S
the right way to brake in a belt,
just for comparing i had a belt Ultimax XS without break in 150 miles TOASTED!
now with riding 80 full miles of trail i don't mean 30 mph but i mean 50 mph and once and a while don;t hammer but slowly give her some more gas and not to top end but to 60 mph then slow down to 50 then bring it up to 70 mph then slow down then bring it up to 80 then slow down,
with this i have gotten up to 2000 mile!!
then again i don't run as big of hills but i still run the T-cat hard and the belt lasts me a long time! give it a try theirs nothing to loose.
just for comparing i had a belt Ultimax XS without break in 150 miles TOASTED!
now with riding 80 full miles of trail i don't mean 30 mph but i mean 50 mph and once and a while don;t hammer but slowly give her some more gas and not to top end but to 60 mph then slow down to 50 then bring it up to 70 mph then slow down then bring it up to 80 then slow down,
with this i have gotten up to 2000 mile!!
then again i don't run as big of hills but i still run the T-cat hard and the belt lasts me a long time! give it a try theirs nothing to loose.
mine is a chunk of melted plastic on top of my clutch cover.
I don't keep my belts under the pipe & belt life still sucks, I'm not patient enough to break in a belt (all we have is hills here, how the heck am I supposed to take it easy!!?) either though.
Best I've had so far is 300 miles on a belt. (this includes all my 1000's so far)
my wife rides the same sled & gets over 1000 miles to a belt (she still rides pretty hard, just not as constant as myself). It has everything to do with how hard you ride & if you give the belt a break to cool down often.
For those guys that say they get 2k miles to a belt on a 170+ hp sled, go climb a 2000 foot pull ten times in a row (yeah, I don't mean coming down & telling yer buddies how cool you are in between pulls), then come back & tell me that again!
S
good alignment, good venting, i get close to 700 miles on a "46" belt....i ride hard, lots of max, deep snow climbs.....i have an after-market can, i took the velcro off the clutch guard, pop riveted it to the bottom of the right side belly pan under the can and just forward of the brake....not close to any heat source, belt still easy to get to, and the space isn't used for anything else.....
For trail sleds that sounds great, but some of us haven't ridden 80 miles of trail over the last 2 years. 2000 miles is more than half the life expectancy of the entire sled, not the belt. No mountain sled should have to ride 80 miles of trail to get a belt to last more than a couple hundred miles. Not to mention the trails that we do have to ride aren't groomed, normally max trail speed is not more than 15 mph.
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