Cracked rails weldable? w/pic

[timber76]

hey guys, I was inspecting my skid for some rubbing issues and noticed a crack in the rails on both sides all the way through. I can't afford the ICEAGE rails now, but would TIG welding work for at least the rest of the season? thanks.

 

[Arctic Thunder]

I would say yes.

Also if you don't want to spend a bunch of money you might ask around for some stock take-offs. $50-$75 a set.

Thunder

 

[BIGTWIN900]

I tig welded mine and ten minutes into the ride they were cracked again. the problem is the rails are heat treated so as soon as you weld them they loose all their strength. I am guessing your riding a 162"? I'd look for an M skid (that is what I did) or pony up for nice rails..

 

[timber76]

Yes it is a 162", is this a common place for them to crack? It's near the front idler wheel, was hoping to get a few more miles as is. Is this dangerous or a bad idea to run it? Bummer the weld didn't hold up for you...

 

[rdr99]

I have welded them with success, but I also added a plate to the outside.

 

[LoudHandle]

Yes it is a 162", is this a common place for them to crack? It's near the front idler wheel, was hoping to get a few more miles as is. Is this dangerous or a bad idea to run it? Bummer the weld didn't hold up for you...

Most rails are extruded from non-weldable alloys, for strength reasons. You can run a weld bead on it but more cracks can be seen immediately on both sides of the heat effected zone (adjacent to the weld).

If they were a weldable alloy, the weld does take the temper out and leaves that spot more prone to bending and deformation but should / will not re-crack if the crack was ground out and beveled for a 100 percent weld.

If it were me and new rails were not an option; I would fish plate both sides of the crack and put at least one bolt on each side of the crack. This will buy you some time. That way the flexing that caused it to crack in the first place is transferred to where it is supposed to be and not fatiguing the rest of the connection.

 

[timber76]

thanks for the input everyone, I would spring for the Iceage rails, but I just ordered a BOSS seat! Little by little to keep the Mrs off my butt. I think I will try the "fishplate" and see if I can get through the rest of the year. More input welcome!!

 

[IDspud]

The cracks seen immediately after are from the two metals cooling at separate rates. I welded my king cat rails, five years ago. The key is to warm everything evenly with a space heater or whatever you can. Weld it as warm as you can, and keep it warm. I keep an outside heat source on it for an extended period before letting it slowly cool to room temperature. If you hear a pop you rushed it.

 

[LoudHandle]

The cracks seen immediately after are from the two metals cooling at separate rates. I welded my king cat rails, five years ago. The key is to warm everything evenly with a space heater or whatever you can. Weld it as warm as you can, and keep it warm. I keep an outside heat source on it for an extended period before letting it slowly cool to room temperature. If you hear a pop you rushed it.

That is all well and good, especially with cast iron, but does not do you any good with the non-weldable aluminum alloys. You may have got lucky with your ancient King Cat rails but most modern sled's rails are indeed a non-weldable alloy. Regardless of what you try and do to help it. It is metallurgically impossible with any of the weld processes available to the average Joe.

 

[IDspud]

Is this not posted in the 1M section? = King cat?

I was unaware it was a requirement to be welded by the unskilled and underequipped, my bad.

 

[LoudHandle]

Is this not posted in the 1M section? = King cat?

I was unaware it was a requirement to be welded by the unskilled and underequipped, my bad.

My point was; IF it is an non-weldable aluminum alloy the only way to weld it is, spin or stir welding, which is beyond the average guys budget.

I know the Polaris rails have been a non-weldable alloy for more than 20 years so I assumed Arctic Cat would have followed a similar path, I may be incorrect in that assumption.

But my welding knowledge is sound, as that has been my career for thirty plus years. If a metal is weldable I have done the research and have welded the metal. These include Titanium, inconel, monel, duplex stainless steel, all the welable aluminum alloys, all steels, etc.

While trying to find the specific alloy so we can put an end to this debate I came across this Ebay listing for2010 162" ice age rails for the M1 $199 OBO

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-ARCTIC-C...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4619aa59f8&vxp=mtr

My intent was to help the OP not start a pizzing match with anyone

 

[Rixster]

At some point I had all 4 of my 2 900s rails welded with no issues after that. Weld them up, what the worst that could happen? Have to buy a rail. That's the point you are at now.

 

[IDspud]

I posted that it is possible to have success with the repair he intends.
I have done it, it has lasted.

I don't know how that translates into a match of any kind.

 

[BikerPepe`]

add another guy to the camp of those who have apparently gotten away with the impossible.
When I bought my sled, I got 1/2 way through my first season. The rails had already been welded once. Plated and welded and cracked again. I had the second crack repaired similar to the first by a local fab shop. They got me through the rest of that season and I picked up some iceage rails before the next season.

It's not an ideal by any means and I'm sure once it's compromised it's never as strong as factory, but in a pinch... it'll get you buy for a few more runs.


FYI: When I ordered 162 for the old 1M from iceage, they sent me a set that were 2" longer than they should have been. I don't know why or what went on there. At the time I was so new to sled wrenching that I assumed they sent me the right sizxe and I was wrong about running a 162. We trimmed the rails and installed them before I finally figured out that they had sent me the wrong size.
They told me at the time, they don't get enough orders on the 1M/162 to have them in stock, but were happy to whip up a set for me.

Not a big deal... but might save you some hassle when you get around to the upgrade.