Changing Oil and Chain on a 2000 800 RMK

[CanadaKevin]

Hi there -

I am new to sledding this year am having a blast. I bought 3 different used sleds for myself and family to enjoy one of which is a 2000 800 RMK.

Anyways my question is can someone walk me through the steps to change the Oil in the chaincase.

Also I am thinking I should maybe put in a new chain since I hae no idea how old the other is. I assume these are both easy jobs.


Any tips/advice would be appreciated. Thanks so much for your time.

Kevin

 

[jaysonfreerider]

on my 2000 600 rmk has a drain plug under the chain case. it takes an allen wrinch to get it out so im assumming yours would be the same. pull the plug, let it drain out and then fill it back up and your done!

jayson

 

[Lake Cle Elum]

And, to change the chain:
1) Drain the case
2) Remove exhaust by pulling the spring off
3) Remove the chaincase cover by pulling the bolts.
4) Back off adjuster to remove chain
5) Replace chain and adjust tension
6) New gasket on chaincase cover and don't over-torque the bolts.

A chain should last about 4,000 miles unless the sled has been ridden hard or ran low on chain lube. Check sprockets and bearing while in there.....

 

[CanadaKevin]

Thanks guys I knew it had to be easy,

One more question, I have a minor oil leak, (ie. one drop every day or so on my garage floor) thought it would be the chaincase gasget, but when I acually started pulling things apart I traced it to be coming from below the air intake box. I took it of and sure enough there is minor oil coming out of the four holes at the bottom of the air intake.

I am confident this is not normal - so I would appreciate any thoughts on this as I am totally at a loss.

My machine does have a "vari-flow" on it and I generally run it more towards the "rich" side (usuall 2 of the 5 settings) - so would this have anything to do with it?

Again thanks so much for any thoughts.

Kevin

 

[retiredpop]

That "oil leak" is normal. It comes from spitback from the carbs. To explain briefly there is a mixture of oil and gas drawn into the crankcase on the intake cycle. When the port to the crankcase is closed by the piston there is a mist of fuel and oil that bounces back in a reverse direction through the carb. Most of it is sucked back into the carb on the next intake charge but some of it does find it's way to the bottom of the airbox where it drips out.

 

[AdrenalineAddict]

If your sprockets and chain look decent I wouldn't worry about replacing the chain. When you have the chain off give it a solid inpection, check for binding and chipped or worn teeth. FYI I have a 2003 VE with the wide chain. I've put 11,200 miles of pretty much nothing but mountain climbing on the original chain.

 

[maddog21]

get a new chaincase gasket so you wouldnt worry about it leaking that much. if the oil is all gone, riding it without chain oil, it will get hot and slow it down on you.

 

[go high fast]

Depending on track length, prefered riding condtions, and your weight you may want to gear it down a bit....perhaps 1 tooth down on top sprocket and maybe up a tooth or two on the bottom. Gear ratio is what you're after. Something lower than 2.0 may lead to occasional clutch/belt problems. What ever gear changes you make you probably want to select gears that dont require a chain change since the chains can be pricey. Your local Polaris dealer can tell you which gear combo work with your current chain length.

If you chain case gasket is good just make sure it is clean and make sure all the gasket maker crap is completely removed before re-installing. The gap in the gasket should be at the 12 oclock high position.

i use polaris synthetic chaincase oil but there has been much written on using gear oil and tranny fluid with satisfactory results.

I believe on your sled you may need to remove the gears to get the chain off. Replace cotter pin on top gear. Make sure your the lock nut for your tension adjuster is tight. I had one back out on me one time......it gave new meaning to the term "racheting"

At some point grab a shop manual, parts manual, and the Olav Aaen books on Clutching and Carb Tuning. A sled lift comes in mega handy. Stock is fine 90% of the time....OK 85%, SLP is the best. WPS, Hi Perf, and Dennis Kirk are great. SnoWest is unbelievably helpful.

Hook up with some good riding budides and you'll be like me..........pushing 50 and still crazy about sledding.