K
i want to polish my tunnel this year ..anyone got any tips on how to and best used materials?
any tips for polishing a tunnel?
- Thread starter karnedge
- Start date
There are already a million threads on this.
A lot of work!!!
Started w/ultra-fine sandpaper (600-800-1000 grit) wet sanded the tunnel
Finished w/Mother's Aluminum polish on a buffing/polishing pad wheel.
Good Luck, finished results are worth it, just a lot of work & mess on the way!!
If you are going to do it... use better products that are made to make the job go faster.
There is a big difference between "shiny" and "polished". Polished aluminum is actually more reflective than chrome... I've only seen a few polished tunnels, lots of shiny ones.
Kraven is right... start with sandpaper... gets it nice and flat too. Work thru 400/600/800/1000 grits and then switch up to polishing. This sounds like more work, but if you work up thru the grits it actually makes everything go a lot faster.
I have polished 2 vintage airstream trailers that were over 80 hours each in polishing and THAT was a pain in the azz.
Trust me, if there were an easier way to get top notch results, I would have gone that way. I tried all of the wipe-on products like Hoosiers polish, Miracle polish, CT2 etc and none of them gave the depth of shine that good ole elbow-grease gives.
Mothers works for sure.....but too much work, IMO. PLUS you wont get any milling lines or blemishes out of the surface.
I would first go to http://www.perfectpolish.com and have a look around their site. They have good tech sections and methods
Check out some of these polishing tips: (Ignore the "cyclo polisher" its used on BIG jobs) http://www.perfectpolish.com/QuickGuide.htm
There are a lot of other sources, but you cant get the professional grade products at the local auto parts or industrial outlet and they have all the tech support you need. They have the same supplies that the major airlines use to polish 747's.
These guys have a great price on "KITS"..Price out the "power ball" or Flitz ball at you auto parts store and you will see this is a value.
I recommend Kit #3 for the best results.
http://www.highwayshine.com/cat/Wheel+Polishing+Kits+Kit+Selections.html
Check out their wheel polishing kits http://www.perfectpolish.com/Kits%20and%20Components.htm they have good sizes that are perfect for tunnels and comes with an instructional video. Don't get confused with the cyclo polishers and stick to the wheel kits and you'll have everything you need.
Again the sandpaper rout is the fastest way... work up from 400 through 1200 grit wet sandpaper to save some effort. Especially since you will need to get through any clear coat (clear anodize or clear powdercoat) that some mfgs use. Dont skip a grit or you will be working really hard to get the previous grits scratches out.
Also, As a tip... If you have snow eliminators or better boards on your sled, drill out the rivets/remove the boards so you dont keep catching the wheel on the grips.
On the RAW chassis (2007 -2010) if you drill out the rivets holding on the running board edge tubes and unbolt them from the tunnel, you will have an easier time and spend less time/better results than leaving them in place.. Takes only a couple of minutes to rivet them back on.
To seal it after you polish it, especially if you live where they use salt on the roads use a good metal wax. I like the "Terminator" sealant... great stuff and sheds snow too. Cheap as well.
http://www.topoftheline.com/16ozmaxpains.html
Hope this helps,
Good luck
There is a big difference between "shiny" and "polished". Polished aluminum is actually more reflective than chrome... I've only seen a few polished tunnels, lots of shiny ones.
Kraven is right... start with sandpaper... gets it nice and flat too. Work thru 400/600/800/1000 grits and then switch up to polishing. This sounds like more work, but if you work up thru the grits it actually makes everything go a lot faster.
I have polished 2 vintage airstream trailers that were over 80 hours each in polishing and THAT was a pain in the azz.
Trust me, if there were an easier way to get top notch results, I would have gone that way. I tried all of the wipe-on products like Hoosiers polish, Miracle polish, CT2 etc and none of them gave the depth of shine that good ole elbow-grease gives.
Mothers works for sure.....but too much work, IMO. PLUS you wont get any milling lines or blemishes out of the surface.
I would first go to http://www.perfectpolish.com and have a look around their site. They have good tech sections and methods
Check out some of these polishing tips: (Ignore the "cyclo polisher" its used on BIG jobs) http://www.perfectpolish.com/QuickGuide.htm
There are a lot of other sources, but you cant get the professional grade products at the local auto parts or industrial outlet and they have all the tech support you need. They have the same supplies that the major airlines use to polish 747's.
These guys have a great price on "KITS"..Price out the "power ball" or Flitz ball at you auto parts store and you will see this is a value.
I recommend Kit #3 for the best results.
http://www.highwayshine.com/cat/Wheel+Polishing+Kits+Kit+Selections.html
Check out their wheel polishing kits http://www.perfectpolish.com/Kits%20and%20Components.htm they have good sizes that are perfect for tunnels and comes with an instructional video. Don't get confused with the cyclo polishers and stick to the wheel kits and you'll have everything you need.
Again the sandpaper rout is the fastest way... work up from 400 through 1200 grit wet sandpaper to save some effort. Especially since you will need to get through any clear coat (clear anodize or clear powdercoat) that some mfgs use. Dont skip a grit or you will be working really hard to get the previous grits scratches out.
Also, As a tip... If you have snow eliminators or better boards on your sled, drill out the rivets/remove the boards so you dont keep catching the wheel on the grips.
On the RAW chassis (2007 -2010) if you drill out the rivets holding on the running board edge tubes and unbolt them from the tunnel, you will have an easier time and spend less time/better results than leaving them in place.. Takes only a couple of minutes to rivet them back on.
To seal it after you polish it, especially if you live where they use salt on the roads use a good metal wax. I like the "Terminator" sealant... great stuff and sheds snow too. Cheap as well.
http://www.topoftheline.com/16ozmaxpains.html
Hope this helps,
Good luck
Last edited:
L
how long does a good solid polish last? ive read that gets scuffed and grimy before too long.
chrome
I used a jasco paint stripper if it is powder coated and then washed clean,then used elbow grease and applied never dull then had an elect buffer handy. i did this on my 95 xlt on all parts from bumpers to slide rails and it looked fantastic. my riding buddies hated it beacuse the could not ride next to me in the sun
I used a jasco paint stripper if it is powder coated and then washed clean,then used elbow grease and applied never dull then had an elect buffer handy. i did this on my 95 xlt on all parts from bumpers to slide rails and it looked fantastic. my riding buddies hated it beacuse the could not ride next to me in the sun
MH, that is crazy!! You are the man!
K
thanks for the tips..i know there lots of post on this just find it harder to find old stuff on this new lay out..i think i got what i needed.. now all i need is more time to do all this
D
I go to a big rig outlet that sells polishing wheels and compounds,I use the wheels on my grinder, and princess auto for small felt bobs and small wheels to use on a die grinder for tighter spots ,then use mothers with a rag for final coat and go over it regularly with an old polish rag to keep it shineing after a ride..
