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A couple of questions on chaincase drop & roll

S
Mar 11, 2009
333
42
28
Washington
After you move the drive shaft down and back, doesn't that cause the track to ride on the metal guards at the front mounting points? Do you have to lower all the skid mounting points when you drop and roll the chaincase?

Also, doesn't moving the drivers down and back create too much slack in the track to take out with the adjusters? Do you have to mount the skid a little farther back after a drop & roll?
 
A
Nov 26, 2007
1,518
815
113
Elko, NV.
You will more than likely need to drop the front of the skid down a bit, but probably no the rear. Most drop and roll's do not roll far enough to worry about moving the whole skid back, there's usually enough slack in the adjusters to tighten the track unless of course you're doing something extreme.
 
S
Mar 11, 2009
333
42
28
Washington
If you have to drop the front of the skid to compensate for dropping the drive shaft, doesn't that defeat the purpose of dropping the chaincase to improve the attack angle? Also, if you lower the front of the skid, wouldn't you need to raise the front suspension quite a bit to maintain the same ski pressure? Or do you shorten the limiter strap to compensate for dropping the front of the skid?
 

Robbie

Well-known member
Premium Member
Dec 23, 2007
472
373
63
76
Drop and roll

Usually you go to a bigger driver to improve the approach angle. You won't have to move the suspension down as much. The other advantage to a drop and roll it to be able to run a taller lug track.
 
S
Mar 11, 2009
333
42
28
Washington
Ah, bigger drivers, of course, I should have thought about that. Bigger drivers combined with a bit of drop & roll would significantly improve the attack angle.

If you're doing a drop & roll for more track clearance though, bigger drivers wouldn't be an option in that case would they?

I need more track clearance, and I'm trying to decide between doing a drop & roll, or changing from 9 tooth to 8 tooth drivers. I know that smaller drivers will make the attack angle slightly steeper, but I can mount the skid about 1/2" farther back to counteract most of that. I already have the 8 tooth drivers, but I started thinking about doing a drop & roll instead. That's when I realized that dropping the driveshaft would cause the track to ride on the guards. I'm starting to lean back towards changing to smaller drivers and save the work of doing a drop & roll.
 
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