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2005 rmk 800 not getting fuel

W
Mar 10, 2020
7
1
3
My new to me sled seems to not be getting fuel. It got flooded real bad gas in pipes, crankcase, cylinder etc. I got all that drained out I think there is a possibility there is fuel in the pulse line or in the diaphragm. Whats the easiest way to get to the fuel pump. I can see it but wondering what I need to take apart to get to it. If I dump fuel in the line it will run until the bowls run out of fuel.
 
J

jim

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
1,014
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Boise
Your float bowls/valves are stuck open. You need to remove the airbox and pull the carbs and likely clean the carbs up and especially pay attention to the float bowl passages. Likely that you have debris in there or that they are just gummed up and stuck open. And if those are stuck open, you likely have other jets that are clogged up. So, a full carb clean is likely in order.
 
W
Mar 10, 2020
7
1
3
Your float bowls/valves are stuck open. You need to remove the airbox and pull the carbs and likely clean the carbs up and especially pay attention to the float bowl passages. Likely that you have debris in there or that they are just gummed up and stuck open. And if those are stuck open, you likely have other jets that are clogged up. So, a full carb clean is likely in order.

You may very well be correct Jim. My son parked it on a snow bank tilting forward nose down. I think this could have also been the cause. I guess my question is. I tried to pull the airbox back but there isn't enough room. If I loosen the carb boots will the whole thing slide back. Or do I need to start removing plastic to get the airbox off?
 
J

jim

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
1,014
635
113
Boise
The airbox is a tight fit, but you can remove it by lifting the back edge slightly and then rotating while pulling the base away from the carbs. Getting it back on is more fun. :) And the cause, to be fair, is the horrible gas we have to buy that turns into solid amber in a matter of weeks in a carb.
 

BeartoothBaron

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Nov 2, 2017
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Roberts, MT
Yeah, the airbox takes some technique, especially to get back on! If you really want to lose your mind, put on a new pair of "donuts" (the rubber pieces that slip over the carb throat) on and try and get it on. Anyway, to get to the fuel pump, pull the airbox and carbs; then you should have no trouble getting to it. That can cause flooding in the crankcase and possibly beyond if it's parked downhill. If the diaphragm gets a hole in it, fuel can go past the pump and through the impulse line. Like Jim said, stuck needles in the carbs are another likely cause. I've had very few issues on my sled, but I only run ethanol-free, and I clean the carbs at least once a year. While you have the carbs out, it's also a good time to check what you've got for jetting and where the idle and air screws are set. I wouldn't ride a new-to-me sled without doing that; even if that's not the case, it's real easy for them to end up somewhere in left field if you don't keep carful track of what you've done.
 

Over budget

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Mar 13, 2019
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Centerville utah
Make sure you clean the pilot jets besides the main jets the pilot jets are usually plugged if the sled has been sitting for awhile. The sled will never run right if plugged!!
 

whoisthatguy

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Dec 27, 2007
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Fuel pumps require rebuilding every 2500 miles. If your engine does not start on the first pull when warm, or the second pull when ran the day before, then you need to rebuild it. Ebay has fuel pump repair kits for $10. It is especially important to change out the nickel size round clear disks without putting any creases in them. A crease will render it worthless. Obviously you should replace all the diaphragms that come in the repair kit. If you don't have a repair kit and are in a hurry, you can just flip the nickel size disks over so that a smooth face it in contact with the metal valve to which it is attached in the center with a black rubber pin.

To remove the air box, the tightening bands around the carb boot mouths should be loosened so that the carburetor can rotate as you wiggle the air box up and out.

It wouldn't hurt to temporarily remove the two oil injector tubes that are attached to the carburetor, and apply compressed air to those nipples, in order clean them out. If they get clogged with old oil, then you can get melted piston rings, melted piston, and a destroyed cylinder. Which is an expensive repair.
 
Last edited:
W
Mar 10, 2020
7
1
3
thanks for the help everyone. Got things dissassembled and it looks like the rubber tip on one of the float needles started to come apart and cause it to not seal. The carbs are mikuni and 177 is scratched into both of them. What rebuild kit do I Need? What I'm asking is what carbs are these? Where is the best place to order parts? I am a dirt bike guy and a little new to sleds. Also how can I check to see if fuel pump is working? It is a mikuni round pump will any mikuni round pump rebuild kit work?

Once again thanks for the help
 

whoisthatguy

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Dec 27, 2007
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If you can name the year, model of sled, engine size and number of cylinders, then the part numbers can be looked up online from many Polaris dealers, or Carl's Cycle. It makes it a lot easier for buying parts and repair kits. If you have no idea, then put a picture of it on here, including of the engine, and someone here will figure it out for you.
 
W
Mar 10, 2020
7
1
3
If you can name the year, model of sled, engine size and number of cylinders, then the part numbers can be looked up online from many Polaris dealers, or Carl's Cycle. It makes it a lot easier for buying parts and repair kits. If you have no idea, then put a picture of it on here, including of the engine, and someone here will figure it out for you.

thanks
I looked up the vin number and used that info on Dennis Kirk float/needle set on the way with a fuel pump rebuild kit. Hopefully it will be up and running soon
 
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