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'05 RMK 900 166" - couple questions
- Thread starter BoonDoX
- Start date
you'll want to check the intake boots off the throttle bodies for cracks, if you see any cracks in the rubber boots then replace them asap. #1 cause blown motors as these boots were bad from the factory and cracked with in first year on most in 05. 06 boots were a better composit.
Also check compression on the motor to be sure its not losing any as it is about or past time in my opinion to refresh the top end. I would put the 06 pistons in it as the 05 stock pistons seemed to also have a bad batch and ended up cracking and alot of guys lost bottom ends when this happened. I would put 06 pistons in it before this season to refresh and prevent any mishaps.
as far as the clutch, get a used polaris clutch off ebay or snowest and throw it back on there. I think oem clutch is way better clutch then comet and with the right springs and helix you'll run spot on. theres alot of posts on here about clutching 900's depending on what you have for aftermarket performance as well. I have the 975 bb kit on mine so I don't know the exact springs for a stocker to tell you off hand. its out there though!
Drain chain case oil and get the chain case bracket update from the dealer for free. its an update and they will do it for free. had problem with chain case covers warping and leaking out all the chain case oil in these sleds as well. make sure you do this and get fresh klotz or other good brand oil back in it.
Buy side panel vents if you don't have them from someone like slp or 2 cool air vents like $150 a pair and put them on. this will give you the cooling you'll need to not blow belts every other ride. Also you want to get the slp torq stop arms for the motor which will be like $120 for both @ slp.com. these two things along with pulling some of the washers on the secondary bolt and putting it back on so it can move (float) some is the only way to make these 9's run reliable on the belt issue. for $270 or so you'll have the setup you'll need to not burn a belt but about once a season (1500 miles) for me. Figure belts are $160 for the good ones and $90 for the old style so it won't take long to add up vs. fixing the problem. had a friend who went through like 7 last year due to hot clutch, once he did just what I stated above it was 1 belt for the remainder 500 miles last year and its still on it in the garage.
If you buy a pipe buy the 06 slp setup and get the 06 flash done on the ecu as well. better mapping then the 05 setup.
if the radiator isn't gone junk it and get the relocation kit to re route it and block it off. it is worthless and about 25lbs of weight in the nose!
Slp slt or pp skis are a must too if you ride alot. stock skis suck and dart...
other then that hold on and ride it like its stolen, she will make you smile with that low end torq monster of a motor and if tuned and setup right it will be a great sled for you. otherwise if you ride it stock and don't do the few things above you'll hate it and be done with it mid season, i promise. wouldn't trade my 9 for anything except a turbo. nothing pulls it to this day thats non turbo of course its a bb 975 on 30 nos to
uhh oh, when i baught my sled thats how it was setup, i put it so the secondary wouldnt move, since then i blew 4 belts, my dad says your wrong but he seems to know everything, how much play should there be?
N
A little under a 1/4 inch I would say. I had about 1 washers play when It was stock, than I took 2 more out.
Usually around 3/8 to 7/16" or so. It will self alighn.
K
secondary floating should be 1/32" if the clutches are well aligned
leaving too much play will shorter the belt life. (centrifugal forces and banking of the machine causes friction and heat the belt)
and also the inner sheave may grind the sidewall if there is not enough spacers behind the secondary.
krat
leaving too much play will shorter the belt life. (centrifugal forces and banking of the machine causes friction and heat the belt)
and also the inner sheave may grind the sidewall if there is not enough spacers behind the secondary.
krat
i have a question for you guys, i read on here about some of the cases on the 900 being to tight and some being to loose, well mine when you first start it, the clutch spins perfect, but once its warmed up, the the clutch moves up and down real bad, if you look at the bolt on the clutch it mooves almost 1/4 inch, so this cant be good, have any ideas?
its a 2005 polaris fusion 900
its a 2005 polaris fusion 900
N
what clutch? Primary or secondary? Are you saying that the secondary is moving off of its axis around the jackshaft?
-Nolan
-Nolan
no the primary, when idling cold its perfect, but once it warms up it shakes real bad, sometimes worse than others.
K
check the crankshaft truing
blown front motor mounts maybe..
when you lift the clutch (GENTLY) to see if its moving..does the engine as a whole move..i would bet your motor mounts are shot....
also make sure your front crossmember bolts are still intact (2 bolts fwd of your primary, and 2 bolts fwd of your muffler..)
when you lift the clutch (GENTLY) to see if its moving..does the engine as a whole move..i would bet your motor mounts are shot....
also make sure your front crossmember bolts are still intact (2 bolts fwd of your primary, and 2 bolts fwd of your muffler..)
Yeah, what guido said 1st place to check that much movement!
no i checked all the mounts when i replaced the oil injection cable, like it doesnt move that much it just shakes, more then when its cold, but when i give it gas even in wet snow the clutch doesnt move, like it doesnt torque back, so i dont know what cause that, it runs perfect. its also got 4700 miles.
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