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Oil Confusion, simplified...... I hope.

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indydan

Well-known member
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Hello folks.



I hate to see mass confusion, I know things have gotten alittle wild in injector oil world sense I mentioned I really prefer petroleum base oils verses synthetic.

And when I talked about the warranty on the Torque Master crankshafts.

Lets just say this, Polaris has had mass crankshaft failure on their 800 Big Block. for the most part NON of them are oil related ( so the comparrison to cat ) s not a fair one. The New Cat motor has a great bottom-end designed by qualified Suzuki engineers. where as Polaris has choosen a route of using people that are book smart and field stupid in the crankshaft & crankcase finish product. Polaris has a quality control problem. The 2000 to 2005 800 Big Block is one of the best 800's built to date ( The quality control is what has haunted it )

The warranty on the Torque Master crankshafts is for the most part a PTO - End Warranty ( thats where the Polaris failures have been )

Out of the hundreds of 800's cranks and Crankcase I have done there has been at least 17 - 800 Cases that failed to make the cut for a good core, And at least 12 - 800 cranks that had a frozen bearing in areas other then the PTO - Side we could not remove that rendered the crank junk and could not be used. And there have been welded cranks that could not be used. All that being said I have not called a customer and told him is core was junk ( I hold as close to the line as I can ) That the price you expected to pay when I call was exactly what you thought it was going to be.

And there has not been a warranty claim yet, Feel secure in your purchase of a Torque Master Bottom-end. If there is ever a warranty claim you can be sure that I will do everthing in my power to make sure you don't pay a cent.

So that being said, Run whatever oil makes you feel good.

#1 - Advertising - Believe NON of it.

#2 - Weather - Use a oil that is rated for the temp you operate your toys in. ( In other words ) Don't run your sled oil in your chain saw in the summer time. If you cut wood in the winter then the sled oil is fine.

#3 - And most important ( Use your head ) Common Sense. I am one of those people that if am at the hardware store and I am buying parts for my toilet and there are 3 different brands of the same part ( I am buying the most expensive one ) Only unless a friend or plumber I respect tells me that there is a brand out there thats priced for less and its also better. ( More expensive ) is normally better. But is better really needed all the time.............. Tell me this.........If your installing a mail box and you deside that your going to use a 4 foot diameter solid steel pole and bury it 20 five foot deep and concrete it in, to hold your mail box up............does this really make good sense ???

When it comes to Oil, I run expensive Valvoline Extreme Blue in my Dodge Cummins ( in the winter only ) and I go right back to the cheap sh!t in the summer. Why you ask............. Well

#1 - Cummins designed Extreme Blue for Valvoline for their diesel motors.
#2 - and most important in this comparrison - 15/40 weight Pretrolem base oil has a pour point at sub-zero temps that I am NOT comfortable with. ( in other words ) the oil does not flow fast enough thru the oil pump, or the crank and cam bearings. PERIOD . There is no 5/40 weight petroleum based oil rated for a diesel at minus 20 tha will allow a unplugged in diesel to start safely. This is where the synthetics are magic.

I only piss the money away when I think its needed.

My sleds get Castrol T2, Or Old Cat Green NON synthetic. PERIOD.

Remember this ..........I don't ride when its below zero ( my trucks got a heater ) my sled don't. So pour point means nothing to me in a sled.

If your wondering about how different oils pour in the cold...... Do a test yourself.

I do it all the time, just to see if things are acting the way to ADVERTISERS say they are.

get a pack of Dixie Cups and fill them 1/2 full, put them outside on the coldest day that you will actually ride and after a few hours pour them from cup to cup and see what you see. Try and imagin that oil gravity feeding to your oil pump ( and then your oil pump ) pumping it.

when it comes to 4 strokes ( Imagin this ) Your crankshaft is hollow and oil must be pumpped thru it from one end to the other and in doing so that oil MUIST make it thru .002 thou clearances in each and every bearing ( this is why oil presure is higher ) when the motors cold.

Remember this also - Most 4 strokes get their oiled from one end to the other ( this takes time ) and oil must flow freely for this to happen.

2 strokes normaly get it from many different fittings all at the same time. ( premix is magic ) as long as you understand the efects on jetting and the fuel injection systems of today.

So, That being said - Use your brains alittle now and then. Common sense goes along way ( if you don't feel you have any ) then ask one of your friends that does.

Every now and then we are going to make the wrong dession based on the situation were in.

That is called, .......... - Experience and College don't teach it.

Have a great winter everyone !!!!! :o

Dan
 
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I'll sleep on that. Synthetic/Blue blend for me, works awesome so far.
 
Rotella T

I'm mostly active on the Suzuki LTR 450 Forums, and the engine builders there swear by Shell Rotella T, we run it in our truck fleet of 100+ trucks... I like to run amsoil in my sled.... but i actually don't know why i am posting any of this... i must be way bored...

sorry
 
Dan-what do you think of the stub on the new 8's? Looks to me like the inner sleeve with different metallurgy (very hard) might be like a glue lam beam in the wood products industry. Two laminations stronger than a single piece? This seems to be new technology, at least I haven't seen any info on this new stub being used by anyone else. Although it's early, haven't seen any reports of broken cranks on new 8's.

001-2.jpg
 
PTO-end

Dan-what do you think of the stub on the new 8's? Looks to me like the inner sleeve with different metallurgy (very hard) might be like a glue lam beam in the wood products industry. Two laminations stronger than a single piece? This seems to be new technology, at least I haven't seen any info on this new stub being used by anyone else. Although it's early, haven't seen any reports of broken cranks on new 8's.

001-2.jpg

Ron, I am very interested in this. I have a new dragon crank coming I will send you a PM after I check it out.

Thanks Ron.
 
Ron, I am very interested in this. I have a new dragon crank coming I will send you a PM after I check it out.

Thanks Ron.

According to Polaris engineers it only looks like two different metals because they machine the outside edge so they can stamp the code numbers you see to monitor quality control.
 
According to Polaris engineers it only looks like two different metals because they machine the outside edge so they can stamp the code numbers you see to monitor quality control.

We went through this a few weeks ago on another thread, there is clearly a different metal inside the crank and it's two pieces. You can see the line where the first sleeve ends. At least that's what it looks like to me using a magnifying glass and good lighting. The inside sleeve is a different color and has a texture like steel that has not been machined. Note that the crank and sleeve have both been machined on the end, yet the sleeve is a different color and inside is darker with a finish that has not been machined.

002.jpg
 
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I can't find the cummins formula Valvoline up here anymore, my pickup is do and nobody carries it anymore. 150,000 miles with the same brand of oil and now I'm going to have to change over. :(
 
Castrol 2T oil

Dan , I read the old thread on this and I made the switch. Sucked out all the VES gold and filled it with 2T motorcycle. I noticed they also have a 2T snow. There seemes to be a big difference in price. Is that just a supplier issue?
Also, my carl's 975 is probably going to need a rebuild after this season as it has a few miles on it. Your tourqe master II looks like something I'd be interested in. Would you want the whole ball of wax, or would I need to go through Carl's for the top end?
 
We went through this a few weeks ago on another thread, there is clearly a different metal inside the crank and it's two pieces. You can see the line where the first sleeve ends. At least that's what it looks like to me using a magnifying glass and good lighting. The inside sleeve is a different color and has a texture like steel that has not been machined. Note that the crank and sleeve have both been machined on the end, yet the sleeve is a different color and inside is darker with a finish that has not been machined.

002.jpg


I will bet you lunch.
 
I will bet you lunch.

How about $10, it's a long drive for the loser? How do you propose settling the bet?
The Polaris engineer story came up before but so far naysayers that looked at a crank stub have gone silent. A tech at Carl's looked at one and agreed with my assessment but he isn't an engineer. Have you looked at one?
 
Dan. is there actually marbles in that blue marble stuff? I'm so confused.

LOL.. no I'm not, But I just broke in my 797 with good old chevron tcw3.
I'm thinking of continuing to use it. powervalves be damned.

rumor is the synthetics attract moisture, have you seen any rusty crank bearings on sleds that sit with synthetic oil?
 
I have looked at 10 of them.
Not sure how we can prove it one way or another.
But to answer your challenge, hell yeah I would risk $10.00 that the engineering blueprint I saw in Roseau would confirm it.
 
Dan. is there actually marbles in that blue marble stuff? I'm so confused.

LOL.. no I'm not, But I just broke in my 797 with good old chevron tcw3.
I'm thinking of continuing to use it. powervalves be damned.

rumor is the synthetics attract moisture, have you seen any rusty crank bearings on sleds that sit with synthetic oil?

Maybe I can answer this question correctly,

Synthetics do not attract moisture as far as I am aware, but they do not do as good of a job protecting steel (your crank and bearings) from corrosion as good as petroleum based oils do.
Especially when you get into the oils that are billed as "Race Oils" becuase they leave out a calcium based corrosion inhibitor.

if you read the label on racing oils, they clearly state they ae for racing engines that get disassembled and inspected often.

it does not take long for steel to rust, sitting overnight is enough to get a slight rusting, and every time the engine is started that rust gets scuffed off , repeat this often and all those little tiny amounts add up to a huge amount of missing material in little time.
Many people think it is just from seasonal storage, I say it is from the simple fact of parking your sled overnight and the amounts adding up quickly.

I may be way off base here, does anyone agree or disagree?
 
Hello folks

My sleds get Castrol T2, Or Old Cat Green NON synthetic. PERIOD.

Remember this ..........I don't ride when its below zero ( my trucks got a heater ) my sled don't. So pour point means nothing to me in a sled.

Dan



i have a question :confused: does a pour point change when u use it in premix :confused: will cold temps affect it as much when its in the gas already ????

Thanks

Mark
 
I will bet you lunch.

Ditto Super Dave.....I have machined a ton of stuff on a lathe and that clearly looks like the end of a lathe cut pass as described by Super Dave. The end of the shiny machine section is cut in on the face by which looks like about .020" and the less dull metal is raised up revealing the original section length of the crank before the lathe cut ended. Shiny stop / dull start for those who might be lost.

The inside diameter where the bolt goes through into the crank has been machined too....you cannot obtain an inside diameter like that with out center punching it. The difference in color is probably a sequencing thing where it was machined to shape and then exposed to a hardening sequence and then they cut the taper for the primary afterwards.

Not an insert, not a sleeve, not two different types of metal.....trust a machinist on this one!

I am in on the $10.00 bucks too.
 
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