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Need help getting transfer out of the new '08 skids....

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J
Sep 21, 2005
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Peace River, Alberta
Sooo, I know this is backwards to the normal, but, I was wondering if there's any easy way to make these skids transfer more weight? The limiters are as loose as they go, and I have no idea what the float is at for pressure. I'm about 230 or so, and buddy wants the same thing out of his sled, and he's probably 165 ish.

Thanks guys! The help is MUCH appreciated!:face-icon-small-hap

Oh, and if it matters, mine's a Sno-Pro, and his is a 153.
 
Last edited:
R
Dec 2, 2001
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Spokane WA
Good l;uck. Ive been playing with mine for the last 5 rides. I can get it to trench more, but cant get it to transfer like I was hoping for. Im sure the stock track has alot to do with it. The other side of the coin is that it does great at staying on top of the snow.
 
H

HPJUNKIE

Active member
Nov 5, 2003
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Try drilling a new hole for the lower rear scissor mount at the rail 1' fwd if you have room.
 
G

geo

Well-known member
Dec 1, 2007
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I've made a nice improvement to mine by relocating the upper rear arm mount on the tunnel and sissor stop on the rails.

Very nice controlable transfer (with just weight shift) and a much better bump ride. Allows you to run much less pressure for proper ride hieght (changes rate of shock travel and gets rid of mushy beginning) and finally use all the travel in the skid. It's a great mod if you like a light front end and still keep the skis down on a hill. You actually have to push the front end down on hard take offs or you'll loop when you catch traction.

It has changed the OK '08 skid to the best I have had. Got rid of my Holz skid 'cause this one now rides as plush but takes the big bumps easy (love the air shock).

I'll try and post a pic soon (got some just need to have someone show me how to load and send)
 
W

woodies

Guest
geomod-1.jpg
try moving your spring slider down and back big diff
 
B

boosted1

Member
Nov 26, 2007
274
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Edmonton
relocated the front arm on the rear skid

I have relocated the front arm DOWN about half an inch, and transfers better, arms are not played out after riding the trail up the hill, could use more though
would like to hear more about the relocation of the top arm from GEO
do you move the tunnel mounting bracket?

Thanx

B
 
G

geo

Well-known member
Dec 1, 2007
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Kamloops B.C.
Tried to post pics and tried to E-mail. Feel stupid lol.

I'll get an expert lol to help tonight.

Played some more with it and totally pleased now. Ride hieght ( air pressure) was the final piece.
 
G

geo

Well-known member
Dec 1, 2007
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Kamloops B.C.
pics

picture try
camerapictures030geopr4.jpg


camerapictures029geope5.jpg


There are a couple of pics. The top mount center location is 11.4 mm from front edge and same distance from bottom of bend on the mount.

The new stop location on rails is 7.9 mm from top of rail and same from top inside edge of original hole.

It looks very much like a Holz skid 'cause the geometry is the same.

What this does is put the shock linkage into the stiffer part early and allows you to use much less pressure to get the correct ride hieght. The lower pressure allows you to use all the travel but the exponential spring rate of the air never bottoms (yet, lol).
Very nice transfer and as plush a ride as the valveing allows.

To set the ride hieght for your wieght, sit on the sled and measure from the floor to the rail at the rear arm mount. It has to be 3.5 inches (again the same as a Holz is set up. On mine the static hieght (unladen) is 19.5 in. and me sitting on sled is 16 in. I have found that in the field the pressure doesnt change much from the shop. I think because of oil temp., so just set it and forget it.

I run 85 psi in powder and 90 on the harder snow for my 250lbs with gear. If you dont set-up for this sag it will ride rough and not transfer well because the air spring wont let it use the full travel.
Front shocks at 55 psi and middle preload for the steering effort you want.

Hope you get the idea from the pics. Works very well for me.
 
A

ACMtnCat

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
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GEO,

Are you doing this in addition to dropping the front mount a half inch?

Thanks!
 
G

geo

Well-known member
Dec 1, 2007
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Don't know if the '07 linkage ratio can take this move. I do know the '07 valveing is terrible and the spring would react different than air. I ran a different suspention last year cause my back said so lol.

I don't see the need to drop the front mount on my '08 because it sits high enough stock (more than `07) and the transfer added by this modification does what I have wanted since the M7 and more.
How much the skis lift depends on where I put my feet in a climb and on the flats I still have steering control under throttle or `wheelies`if i want. That`s what I wanted.
 

thekrust

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Nov 26, 2007
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South Okanagan
Hey Geo, Nice mod, I think I'm gonna give that a try. Is your measurement from the forward edge of the hole and the bottom of the bend to the centre of the new hole?? Same for the stopper rod, Do those measurements locate the centre of the new hole?
Thanks
 

Skinner

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Nov 26, 2007
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North Utah
Geo, would it matter if the skid was a 153 or a 162 if you do this Mod? I see that you have a Sno-Pro which would make it a 162. Thanks:D
 

Dam Dave

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Oct 27, 2001
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2008 M8 Sno Pro is a 153, did not come in 162 or I would have one:D
 
J
Sep 21, 2005
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Peace River, Alberta
Thanks, Geo! I got your email, but didn't have time last night to look at it. I'm assuming the pics in it are the same as what's up on here?

Thanks again! We might give this a try this week!
 
G

geo

Well-known member
Dec 1, 2007
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Magic marker up the area where the holes will go. Set-up a scriber to the dimentions listed. Drag across the area along the edges mentioned.

Where the lines intersect, that is the centre of the hole. Centre punch, pilot drill, final drill, then chamfer or deburr.
Take your time on the pilot hole to keep alignment in the chassis equal on both sides.

You`ll find the rear arm doesn`t quite touch the stop (about 40 thou.). I did this to allow the limiter straps to stretch completely and get a bit more front travel. A couple of rides and it`s good. Middle shock still doesn`t top out.

You will notice at stops the rear sags like the M7`s did if you park on a bump. No worries just ride and it`ll be OK
 
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