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503F came with a 5gal tank, needs 600HO stock 9gal, $750.00 12gal avail. 503F, and liquid owners should work together and split $ difference.

503F Original ski was spoon shaped with five carbides no twin axis pivot, needs 04 and on two carbide ski, looks like a larger version of the Ski-Doo Renegade Ski.
Anti darting guides should be reversed to outside of ski edges 05, need added on older ones.Simmons makes a ten inch ski with mount for Hawk.

Ski setback is nice for new riders, and road riding, but orig straight on 02-05 is nice to have in deep, or wet.

503f Mik. carbs stock jetting 220 pto, 205 mag, 3-6000' elevation needs 180, 170. 600HO stock 04-05 350 3-6000' el 270, 06 420 3-6000' el 340-.

Powerblock primary clutches easy to work with 503F came with 9 weights x 3, 600HO had one 1oz, and maybe 4-5 small wts x 3.
Get a Tiny Tach remove wts til 7300rpm 503F, 8100rpm 600HO.

Caution with different primary, can grind through belly pan, 800HO has TRA and added guard on bottom contact area. Polaris P-85 from older Fuji Polaris bolts on 503F. TRA off Summit, other Ski-Doo, Comet, or other for 600HO.

Have found all 503F, and 600HO secondary clutches to have been set at 0 spring tension.
Stock belt rides low in secondary eighth inch, try Polaris XLT belt #1042.
I would like to see a Team secondary setup.

Wraparound aluminum hand guards hold up better, and help when picking back up from helping twoski turn arround on the hill.

Bar risers help. Tall guys like taller seat foam. Bolts in brass bushings on swing arms need to be replaced with longer through bolt, and nylock. Bushings countersunk for new bolt shoulders.

Rails can poke through track, Arctic Cat wheel kit for this problem.

Head light prone to burn out, leave unplugged ground to ground till needed.

Fork seals can usually be repaired if leaking, no dirt to damage.

Suspension questions CB Racing 360-957-3385

503F sits 4" lower then 600HO.

A Snow Hawk is a Snow Hawk their all worth the same$ to me, the 503F could still be the only one made and my 6'5", 265lbs would love it.

The JR 60, and 120 are no slouch either!:heart:

Tony

Ideas?:light:
 
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Thanks for the info - great stuff for us new to the game. Questions if you don't mind, My 06' 600 has a comit clutch, A1 weights, purple spring. Secondary is stock, off-white spring, 50/44 helix. Pulls hard from mid to top end, but seems like it's not shifting out very fast from zero to mid range. My secondary is set at A-1 for spring tension ( fairly soft). Running polaris belt, belt is about 3/16" above secondary. I'm thinking the multi pitch helix may be the issue?! Before I softened up, would not even shift out!

Any suggestions, anyone?
 
Manual overide.

The manuals were originally in PDF on www.snow-hawk.com.

If some of you have the computer skills and your original manual maybe you can post them for all models.

They are very detailed if you take the time to understand them.
 
Hey icehole toss the stock secondary and get an arcticat roller secondary it shifts far better than that old style skidoo they come with . You can then start with 45 to 47 degree helix and work from there this will be real close to what you need on a 600 . It makes a world of difference
 
Hey icehole toss the stock secondary and get an arcticat roller secondary it shifts far better than that old style skidoo they come with . You can then start with 45 to 47 degree helix and work from there this will be real close to what you need on a 600 . It makes a world of difference

Yep, that seems to be everyones suggestion. Based on my measures, I'll need to machine down the shoulder on the jack shaft for the secondary. The shaft has a shoulder on it that sticks out 1" from bearing (this is on a 06, my 05 is different). Anyways, took a cat roller off my mod sled, tossed it on the Hawk, it's .300" out of alignment and the shoulder (not a taper like on my 05) is holding it out. I don't think I dare take .300" off the back of clutch shaft.

So, has anyone done this on a 06? And if so, what did you have to do to get alignment? What about set up on Primary (Comit) for 8000 to 10,000 feet?

Thanks in advance for all your help guys.
 
Research.

Rather than get some riding in I have spent the New Years weekend understanding the fleet of Hawks. Tore apart the stock TRA primary off the the 07 800 and not so scared of that monster any more, just an enclosed reverse Comet, or Polaris P85, quite simple.

Cross referencing with an 04 Rev, no wonder it feels like it's being held back, spring, weights, and ramps are way off for our conditions.

Most mountain sled applications done so far to the 503F, and 600HO have greatly improved performance, makes me wish I had the $ to just convert to Summit power plants DPM, SDI, still like the shorter tracks though.

If you have your 800 manual, it breaks down the OEM parts installed, for reference. Most Ski Doo dealers have parts finder web sites, example.

http://www.motoplex.net/pages/parts/viewbybrand/default.aspx

Here is a suggested primary clutching setup I found off the old forum, will be trying it as a new starting point.

Also will be trying ten tooth drivers on one of my short track 600HO's, have had two Hawk owners across the country recommend.

Remember, any up grade in the Snow Hawk primary you should install added protection to the belly pan, It will grind through. AD Boivin part # SH-170 $?

Old forum-

My bro and me have a set of 800 revs( mine is a 04 and his is a 05) and we have had major clutching issue's this past year. When my sled is wide open and ripping up a hill, the rpm's start to flucuate and I have to let off. worked great until I had them cleaned then this started to happen. checked and everything is set up where is always been. My bro is putting a 151 x 16 x 2 on his sled and we want to gear them the same. before we get too ahead of ourselves we need to figure out where to run the clutches at and which gears we may need. If anyone has a arm ripping sled setup for these REV'S and would like to share their knowledge with me, I would appreciate it very much.
Brad

Winter Brew

Get hold of either Big John or Dynamo Joe on here, they both have great settups for the Doo's.

Trinity Taz

Brad, I worked at Mountain Air Sports for two years and can share some experience. On the '04-'05 800's(stock), use a pink-yellow spring (i think) with #415 ramps and ten gram pins if you ride below 6000 ft, use a nine gram pin for 6-10k. In the secondary, keep it stock. And yes, Dynamo Joe does have a great clutch setup with his own custom parts.
Also, I have Quick Clickers in stock if you want a set for easier RPM changes. Hope this helps.

Snowhawkaddict

Clutching the TRA, I will first try stock 04 Summit spring, stock 800Hawk 417 ramps, and hollow 10 gram pins, 400-410 mains, have tried 420's before, air pods, leaving secondary alone for now, 07 800 Hawk does not have factory Attac alt. comp, will try that also later. Use a Tiny Tach to keep track of your RPM's.

Eventually we will narrow this down, Artic Cat, Polaris/Team secondaries, maybe keep the stock and dial in, just keep working at it.

Come on people maximize your Snow Hawk's stock potential then, learn to ride it the same, then do your modifications, longer tracks, Simmons ski's, and go hunting for mountain twoski's.

Tony
 
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Cooling.

Sent to me by a BC rider, he converted his first 600HO, sold it to a friend, and is now finishing the 800HO. Spring over heating gone, forward rear shock spring (only) removed.
 
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Snowhawkaddict you said earlier:
Rails can poke through track, Arctic Cat wheel kit for this problem.

You mean by putting wheels on the front rail you adress this problem?
Cause i just had it happen and it tore the track...

Dou you have a Arctic cat part number? Or what model you used it from?

Thanks!
/Magnus
 
Sleeping bird!

2007 800HO Top Gun prototype delivered last year in mostly stock form according to manual, other then 503F, and 600HO model secondary, 07 factory secondary same as 04-06 Ski-Doo.

490 mains were OEM, 420 last season, fearful of seizure, 6,700 rpm max.

01/06/2008 2800'-5500' elevation, changed TRA primary settings from 19g pins to 9g, blue/yellow to violet/yellow spring, left stock 417 ramps, and added quick clickers at pos. 3, for fine tuning, and 400 mains...........Watching the tiny tach, incremental 200 rpm gains to pos. 6 = 6,900 rpm through 2'-4' deep, 8,100 rpm over packed, hits like a hammer, wheelies at speed, I need to get in shape,,,,,,,,,,,W O W ! http://www.tinytach.com/

This is just a start, there is so many possibilities, but she has come alive, plugs had a faint lean sign, will go up to 410 maybe, and drop needle one, needs smaller idle jets still don't remember what I put in last season. I will keep an assortment of mains in my pack Mt. Baker = 10,000'.

The TRA, I will try replacing ramps with Summit 415's in order to get clickers back to pos. 3 for elevation changes,and stay at or below max 7,850 rpm, secondary will be a whole other puzzle.

Future add ons, alt. comp., best would be Summit harness with DPM MPEM, Team secondary, still looking for that $ tree, and flatten those rail extensions in the deeeeeeep!

Next to go under the wrench, the 600HO 121's, then perfecting the Dream 503F.

Kick *** ride, probably more power then most need, even though all those observers/demo's helped drain that 9gal tank fifteen minutes from the truck.
 
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Rear skid.

I just remembered tonight working on the machines for Mt. Saint Helens this Sunday. You folks with 2006 and earlier machines, need to replace the large bolts that go through the foot peg mount, through the pivot bushings, and the swing arm.

We have had the threaded bushings come loose, and fall off, the suspension will collapse! When I went to the factory in 2007, I told them of the fix, and they showed me they were all ready aware, and had also fixed it.

If you take one side apart the machine will stay standing for this fix.

You want a bolt long enough to go through the threaded bushing M10x70, and a nylock nut M10. You will have to countersink the threaded bushing about 1/4-3/8" to allow bolt shoulder to go through.

Also Ed has posted repair manuals for 2006 600HO, and 2007 800HO, you can see the fix I refer to when you look up the rear suspension on both machines parts lists.

Thank you Ed!

http://www.michigan-snowhawk.com/techinfo.html
 
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Redundency.

Would like to keep this topic towards the top so the same questions do not get asked over and over!

Now back to topic, found the 8.5-12gal fuel tank to be rubbing dangerously against left side sitting on frame, when the 600HO came to be in 2004 the original air box had a hole added to the frame, needs to be cut away so the tank can not wear through.

Check yours soon, our 800HO was nearly worn through!
 
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tuned in

Hey tony did you get a chance to try the 415 ramps in your 800 yet. Just wondering if you got your rpm up yet. I will be getting our 800 back from rental monday so I will know how my setup worked and will post results.
Also do you have a picture of the tank rub. Just like to see pics. of repair areas. Thanks Les:beer;
 
Belts.

We are still using the 417 ramps, I get my rpm changes with the quick clickers need to install 415's so I can position clickers back to around #3, not #6 like now.

Ultimax part #138-4628U3

This is the after market heavy duty version drive belt OEM to the Snow Hawk 800HO with the same dimensions as the lighter duty Polaris part #3211042.

For our 800, I changed the original 1042 I had installed, Sunday after about nine run hr's on the Tiny Tach, because I noticed heavy wear and a change in performance. It may have been premature because the hole in the belly pan caused by the TRA allows snow to enter on hard left turns, thus getting the belt wet, I tend to favor rights.

Either way I believe www.mccbrothers.com have made it all last season, and into this on the original Ultimax installed on their 07 800HO, and now their 2008 800HO Enduro.

Still monitoring the 600's, sure the 503F's will run long on the 1042.

Burned over thirty gallons of premix in the 800 over the weekend, it got maybe one or two hours of rest while we were up there, kick *** time, thanks for joining us Ozzydog!
 
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Follow up.

Have been playing with the stock Powerblock on the 600's and found pretty good results so far removing all smaller weights from the pucks for 2,500'-5,000' original spring with 280 mains. I did not happen to notice the rpm's during this so keep that in mind. http://www.tinytach.com/tinytach/index.php, http://www.tinytach.com/tinytach/installation_gas.html.

I am not saying this is the best, but for budget minded works pretty good, and proves clutch chart is way off.

There are so many clutching combinations you can try.

Removing the forward shock spring has really improved deep snow performance, especially on the short track 600's, should probably install a lighter spring for us heavier folks, can sometimes get pegs to drag under acceleration on the trail.

What tweaks have you tried lately?
 
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Bearings

Beware, we are experiencing failures on the final drive starting behind TLS sprocket to disc brake side.

Replace Chinese OEM's with better grade now as a preventative measure to insure continued use of original carriers and not having to be towed out.

All years, all full size models, same bearing part #, more power any one?
Now what will we see what HP, and rider skill will break next?

http://www.michigan-snowhawk.com/files/13-_CHASSIS_STEERING_AND_BODY_800HO_2007.pdf
 
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