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CHANGING THE FUEL FILTER IN YOUR PRO

mountainhorse

mountainhorse

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Premium Member
Chage the fuel filter on your sled... regardless of mileage at the beginning of the season, IMO.

Changing that filter is a PITA.

New filters are available now from SPI
See this thread.
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=378179



BUT...Before you change it.

Make sure that you have fresh fuel in the system ... Drain ALL of last years gas before you put in the new filter and flush out the lines.

DONT start the sled with old Gas if you can possibly avoid it.

Also... a good idea is... BEFORE you start the sled...drain out ALL the old gas, put in new clean gas... then run the fuel pump with the prime connector... this will flush all of the old fuel out of the injector rail so that stuff is not running through the injectors on initial startup.

THEN change the filter.

I also recommend that you run a bit of fuel through the filter by connecting it to the fuel tank end...Dont connect the other end to the fuel rail yet... Put the loose in in a bucket or bottle and run the pump with the prime connection. This will flush out any potential manufacturing debris/particles from the filter/hose assembly so you are not running them through the injectors.

Install the filter using the procedure below... prime before trying to start and it will fire right up!

NOTE: On the 2013-2014-2015 sleds.... you will not need a disconnect tool to unhook the fuel filter line from the tank connection. See photo below for details.



mountainhorse said:
Also, Be prepared for quite a job to R&R the fuel filter... plan on 2 hours for the lay-person. Yes, I know you super-human tech guys can do it in 8 minutes with and rock and screwdriver with one hand behind your back...but for most that have not done it before... it will take some time.

The 2011/12 end on the fuel filter-hose that attaches to the fuel- rail will fit the 2013/14/15.

Quote:
When removing the fuel filter fuel spillage will occur. Be
sure to work in a well ventilated area away from
anything which may cause the fuel to ignite such as an
open flame, heaters, trouble lights or cigarettes.
1. The fuel filter should be replaced as outlined in the
periodic maintenance table.
2. Open the left and right door panels. Remove the hood
and drive belt.
3. Disengage the rubber strap securing the oil tank to the
clutch cover. Remove the oil tank mount screw.
4. Remove the two harness connectors from the ECU.
Remove the oil tank fill cap, and then the ECU bracket.
5. Remove the four nuts that mount the clutch cover to
the chassis. Slide the oil tank down to open access to
the two rear nuts.
6. Carefully release the clutch cover from the studs and
then pull it away from the airbox.
7. Depressurize the fuel system. Remove the filter from
the airbox bracket. Disconnect the fuel supply hose
from the fuel pump flange using a disconnect tool.
8. Remove the bottom fuel fitting clamp on the fuel rail.
9. Carefully remove the fuel hose fitting from the fuel rail.
Have a clean shop rag at hand to absorb any fuel that
leaks from the fitting. Dispose of rag properly when
finished.
10. Drain any fuel in the hoses/filter into an appropriate
container, and then discard filter in accordance with
local rules and regulations.
11. Apply a light film of two stroke engine oil to the new
fuel supply hose fitting. Carefully install the fitting back
into the fuel rail. Torque screw to specification.
Fuel Hose Fittings-to-Fuel Rail Clamp Screws: 3.3 ft-lb (4.5 Nm)
12. Reconnect the supply hose to the fuel pump flange.
Verify an audible “click” is heard and the connections
are secure by firmly pulling on the two hose
connections. Push the filter cartridge back into the
bracket.
13. Inspect the hoses making sure none are worn or
damaged.
14. Reinstall the clutch cover. Torque cover nuts to
specification.
15. Reconnect the ECU wiring harness connectors.
16. Install the ECU bracket onto the oil tank. Reinstall the
oil tank. Torque mount screw to specification.
17. Reinstall the drive belt. Replace the hood and door
panels.
Click to expand...

attachment.php











.
Click to expand...

13 connection.jpg
 
GOOD QUESTION...

ON 2013-2015's... Polaris does not provide a test-port/pressure-relief on the PFA (Pump Flange Assembly)... place a rag over the return line at the PFA... slowly disconnect to release the pressure.

On the 2011 & 2012's... shrader valve should be built into the PFA. Use a rag to avoid the gas spray...It is under medium pressure at 58psi... and will spray pretty good. Better yet... use a hose with the proper fitting and screw to it.

attachment.php





.

Fuel Press.jpg
 
I have a 12 I am swapping out right now, and I cannot get the bottom part off the fuel rail? I took out the hex bolt, then what? Am I missing something!! Or do you just pull?
 
NO HEX

There should be NO "hex bolts" removed when you are pulling the fiter-hose-fitting out of the Fuel Rail...

The BRASS end of the Fuel filter hose that plugs into the fuel rail is held in with a clamp and small torx screw.

attachment.php





.

Rail fitting.jpg
 
Firmly grab the brass end with some plyers...twist and pull in a direction that will pull it straight out of the fuel rail...do not grab the hose and "yank".

Of course, you have to remove the clamp and the screw first.






.
 
I am just not seeing the "clamp" here is a pic of what I am looking at. The bolt is a 5/32 hex.

Sorry for this I usually figure this crap out easy!

20141115_170705.jpg
 
Last edited:
Step 2) ... remove.... drive belt.

Did you follow ALL the steps above in the first post?

AHH.. you mean hex socket screw.... Once thats off... you will be able to slide the "fork" type clamp out... be carefull and don't drop it under the engine.


.
 
Changed the filter on my 13 pro the other day, not a hard job just took some time. Had 5300km on the filter I took off and could barely blow air through it :face-icon-small-ton no wonder my sled used to idle low on start up sometimes and sometimes die while warming up.
 
MH, a question: the fitting that fits into the fuel rail and is secured with the "fork".....does that type of fitting have a specific name? Reason I ask, I'm looking for the same fitting but with an -AN end, rather than a barbed fitting for the fuel line. Any clue?
 
Damn. I was hoping to get away from the barb and go with a thread on style.
 
If you dont have the release tool, take apart a pen, trim it to length and cut it down the length. Depending on the pen you may need to shave the end down a bit. Lightly grab with pilers and slide down into the connector. Works great!
 
That's funny, because I'm pretty sure I just ordered that 4 days ago from Bryce, along with my 1-1 regulator kit. Didn't know he had advertised it.
 
So after you remove the filter, cut it apart and see what's in there, you might be surprised!
I used a tin snips.

Oh, and let us know what you find!
 
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