be carefull locking the motor to adjust clutch

coug66 · Jan 25, 2014

engine repair advice
I have a nylon ski rope stuck in between the piston and the cylinder.

How it got there?

I was locking the motor to remove the primary to tune it for my elevation. fill the cylinder with rope just before top dead center.

the first engine lock went fine to remove the clutch. I reversed the motor and the piston came up to lock it. problem was on the long stroke the rope got caught between the front of the exhaust port.

engine is stuck and the rope is so tight I can't move the motor or pull the rope to free it.

would you remove the cylinder bolts and pry the cylinder up against the case?

or would you bang the piston down with a soft mallet and a secondary hammer.

or another tip?

I am waiting on rings, I took the head off since I am getting it stripped to do a ring change.

coug66 · Jan 25, 2014

I just found a solution.

I burned and cut off the rope on top. If I went forward it would loosen the bolt.

With the top rope burned and cut I was able to tighten the clutch bolt it broke free. I took off the cylinder and removed all the rope fibers below.

I checked the rings and found the piston, ring and gasket had already been changed!

.

I decided to reinstall the cylinder and button it back up.

Next I will get into the carbs and see if the jets have been changed.

kanedog · Jan 26, 2014

Did I just read what I thought I read? You put a rope in the cylinder to stop the engine from turning over so you can remove the primary clutch?

coug66 · Jan 26, 2014

kanedog said:
Did I just read what I thought I read? You put a rope in the cylinder to stop the engine from turning over so you can remove the primary clutch?

Yes need to lock/secure the engine from turning to be able to loosen and tighten the bolt.

It works well but the next time I will remove the rope in between reversal of the stroke.

the rope can easily get caught in one of the ports if left in there.

reverse get close to top dead center and then insert rope and lock it again.

Always war · Jan 26, 2014

Never been a big fan of this method. Why not just use a clutch holder? From the looks of it, it does not "work well".

xpspenziv · Jan 26, 2014

Here is what you need. Rest the long end on the secondary shaft or foot well brace.

http://www.goodwinperformance.com/skidooclutches.asp

xc6rider · Jan 26, 2014

kanedog said:
Did I just read what I thought I read? You put a rope in the cylinder to stop the engine from turning over so you can remove the primary clutch?

Never had to do this on a sled, but this is actually a VERY common practice on watercraft. In shop manuals from the factory and all! Used to do this all the time.

Key is, making sure the ports aren't open!

Also, use a good quality kermantle type rope... Less likely to get torn up, if it does get caught.

kanedog · Jan 28, 2014

I learn something new everyday. Cool!

NEWDUCK · Jan 29, 2014

xc6rider said:
Never had to do this on a sled, but this is actually a VERY common practice on watercraft. In shop manuals from the factory and all! Used to do this all the time.

Key is, making sure the ports aren't open!

Also, use a good quality kermantle type rope... Less likely to get torn up, if it does get caught.

Ditto! That's the only way to undo the "driveshaft" on a watercraft.

xc6rider · Jan 30, 2014

Yessir! Miss riding them, do NOT miss wrenching on 'em! My back still reminds me...

oscar680 · Jan 31, 2014

The rope method is also used on 4 strokes. If your changing a valve spring with the head still on the engine It's an easy way to keep the valve from dropping into the cyl.

DLynn · Feb 5, 2014

This method works fine when trying to keep a valve from dropping but to load a piston with the force required to pull the bolt or pull the clutch is a good way to damage a piston or a rod. In this case it looks like you had the piston down when the rope went in and it got cut on a port opening when the piston came back up and the rest is history. Ski-Doo makes a nice tool for holding the clutch or wrap a strap around the clutch and tie it off to the foot well.
Sometimes we get a masters degree by the time we finish what should have been a simple project.
Glad it all worked out for the best in the end.

mountainhorse · Feb 16, 2014

Other issues with the rope method... I can attest to personally.

On a pressed together crank twin cylinder... ONLY insert the rope in the PTO cylinder... othewise, depending on the force used... you can "un-phase" the crank slightly and bring it out of true... if you do it on the PTO side... the load is transferred through a lot of other parts... BUT... this can still cause problems.

Hold the clutch with one of the many tools designed to do this is the best way.

.

Laundryboy · Apr 10, 2014

What's the point in removing the bolt unless you're pulling the clutch. If you're using that rope method to lock the engine while you torque the puller....ouch!!

Killer Time Racing · May 25, 2014

mountainhorse said:
Hold the clutch with one of the many tools designed to do this is the best way.

.

I was laughing my butt off till I read that this is a correct practice on another type of vehicle. By the way how much torque are you putting on the bolt that you can't hold it with your hand while running the impact with your other? Seems to me 65# is the correct torque on all Polaris sleds. That looked like a Skidoo and I don't have a left handed micrometer or upside down water cooled torque wrench like the Canadians use.

so I guess I will leave this method to you guys north of the border and use good old American SAE tools. And if that fails a Big Hammer !!!

Just kidding guys but in all fairness this seems like a bad way to do a fairly easy job

This sure seems like a correct tool for the situation, but I always just hold it with my hand!!

Thunder101 · May 28, 2014

Used to use the rope one the old Yami's also. normal practice when needed.

caper11 · Jun 29, 2014

WOW
I'd prefer to use the hydraulic method before I'd ever stick rope down a cyl to lock the crank.
To remove a heat soaked primary with a puller that's a lot of force needed to get the primary off.

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SnoDmon · Jul 29, 2014

WOW is right! :jaw:

coug66 - find an impact wrench next time. I know you can find access to one and some air. I like to free the clutch with a hammer blow to the removal tool before it gets too f'n tight, seen a couple guys split clutches before they get their hammer on :beer;

and I would've at least replaced the rings, cheap insurance.

LoudHandle · Jul 29, 2014

A lot of really poor maintenance practices out there; I would put the rope, rattle gun / impact, and hammer all in the NEVER USE pile if it were my sled.

caper11 · Jul 29, 2014

LoudHandle said:
A lot of really poor maintenance practices out there; I would put the rope, rattle gun / impact, and hammer all in the NEVER USE pile if it were my sled.

Agreed! The amount of times I pull my primary a season which is a lot BTW, I've only used the water trick twice since 2010. Puller works just fine for me and a long handle ratchet. I put the wife's hair dryer between the sheaves with tension on the puller bolt wait a bit than back the puller off and tighten it up again, pops off everytime! I've never removed the primary at altitude but never had to actually.

be carefull locking the motor to adjust clutch

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