Budget Rear Skid Setup for 700/900s

guidoxpress · Jan 1, 2014

I get lots of PMs and stuff about what to do for a 900 skid...to make it better, stiffer, react to jumps, climbing ect ect..

How many of you guys have a sagging a$$ rear skid? it sits low, wont rebound up, you bottom out...you cant afford better shocks, cant afford a timbersled/holz/zbroz skid but want a BOMB setup for under $200...here you go!!!!!!

NEW torsion springs (OEM Polaris part) are around $80 each (need 2)
NEW 225lb spring (OEM Polaris part) is around $35 (need 1)

I started this thread few yrs back I just realized its only on the Polaris IQ section, and not the 900 section where most of the PMs are coming from..so refer to this link, but here is also a brief run down of what to add...

http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?p=3491422

now mind you..if you get other torsion springs (rates) then suggested, I don't care, that's on you but it was never suggested. I promise you (ive done this to the tee) and its by the BEST most IMPROVEMENT to the 900 skid you will ever do, trust me.

Here is a great post from Curt at FTX Motorsports.

"You should also consider the 7042079-067 and 7042080-067 torsion set. They use a tighter spring leg angle which gives you a little more preload at the top of the skids travel. This helps a couple things...it allows you to run the spring on a softer setting and still supports you and the sled properly which extends the life of the spring. The spring will also have more effect at the beginning of travel which helps eliminate the dead spot all these skids have-this un-sprung/un-dampened area of travel is a big reason why the IQ was a bit on the wild side with weight transfer-to much scissor collapse right off the bat.
These are our go to springs for any one over 225lb (which I'm one of by the way!) I have a full season on them in my turbo 163 and they are still on the soft setting-haven't had to add any more pre load since installation which indicates that they are not "sacking out".

Quote from MountainHorse

From what we talked about... the 47 ° angle initiates the suspension earlier... so that should improve the overall function of the skid and make it less wheelie prone and remain in control under power.

These springs have been around since at least 2004 from what I can see.

In fact.. they also make a 47 ° .359 spring for the lighter riders that should also improve the function of the skid.

I also have found that when your track starts to stretch over time, I was running out of axle adjuster room and installed 6" upper idler wheels and it was awesome, never looked back..FYI

You will also know if you have the 225lb front track spring easily, there is a rubber boot/cover on the shock/spring installed from the factory...the OEM spring has a tapper and it gets wider in the middle then the top and the bottom, so the boot is very tight on the spring...the 225 spring is same width throughout and is skinnier, hence the boot is loose when installed and will spin

Below is the Part information for the torsion springs, 225lb front track spring and pics to show you the OLD springs, 225lb spring and the scissor relocation mod.

Torsion Springs Part info:
7042079-067 Spring, Torsion, LH, STD [.375/47 °]
7042080-067 Spring, Torsion, RH, STD [.375/47 °]

225lb front track spring part info
#7041822-067

Make sure and try our scissor relocation of 5/8" BACK-you'll be surprised how well that little change works with these springs

guidoxpress · Jan 1, 2014

ill also add this..

--doesn't matter what shock you use...it will perform well, but of coarse better shocks are always gonna perform better in any case..
--this is basically a must if you are 200lbs or heavier mainly...just make sure you add the weight of fuel, gear, food ect to your body weight, and ill bet we are all 200+..so pretty much means everyone applies and should do this

05900 · Jan 3, 2014

Might add on every skid as well 144 ~ 166
It works cheaply.
Don't forget all the ice in the tunnel

BV Greg · Jan 7, 2014

I did the rear torsion springs listed on my 06 700 and scissor relocation. Basically eliminated all the static sag in the spring when the sled is just sitting. Now I have springs on the lightest preload instead of heaviest. If you shop around you can get springs for $55-$60 each. I got mine at partspitstop.com and found an online coupon for another 5% off.

What is the benefit to the 225# front coil track spring? Further sag reduction or improved sled handling?

05900 · Jan 7, 2014

Improved handling mostly was a noticeable difference!

Jones197666 · Jan 7, 2014

BV Greg said:
If you shop around you can get springs for $55-$60 each. I got mine at partspitstop.com and found an online coupon for another 5% off.

Lucky Americans! It's going to be about $113 each for them here, unless anyone knows of cheaper places to go?

guidoxpress · Jan 7, 2014

BV Greg said:
What is the benefit to the 225# front coil track spring? Further sag reduction or improved sled handling?

By changing the standard 160lb spring to a 225lb unit the front of the sled feels lighter, and is also easier to steer. Enables the balance of the sled to feel more like an Edge—easier to steer when not on the power.

you can order from your local dealer

Jones197666 · Jan 11, 2014

Just got it installed and thought I'd post a couple before/after pictures:

BEFORE

Left is sitting with no weight, sagging way down on highest setting
Right is me holding it up as high as it goes

AFTER

Sitting up at max setting after I got off even after jumping on the running boards a couple of times.

Update:Went for a ride and it's a definite improvement over my old stock ones, there's no bottoming out and if you do jump it the take off and landing are much smoother. Unfortunately we got a warm week here with rain so we ended up losing quite a bit of snow.

guidoxpress · Jan 23, 2014

Jones197666 · Feb 17, 2014

So we went on a rally this weekend and when we returned to the shop I noticed the back end was sitting lower than usual. When I looked down this is what I saw:

The right side spring is broken and This was the second day it's been ridden since I changed the spring. I didn't get to do the 5/8" hole relocation yet. Would that have anything to do with it?

guidoxpress · Feb 17, 2014

Holy cow! Did u do a big drop? That's a new one for me to see..def no related To anything posted above..could have been big jump, extreme cold conditions maybe..or just weak spring..I would see if dealer will help out and get u a new one maybe?

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Jones197666 · Feb 17, 2014

guidoxpress said:
Holy cow! Did u do a big drop? That's a new one for me to see..def no related To anything posted above..could have been big jump, extreme cold conditions maybe..or just weak spring..I would see if dealer will help out and get u a new one?

I don't think my track left the ground all day aside from some rough/bumpy fields. So definitely no big drops. It was only about -20C (-4F) on Saturday here so I don't the cold is an issue. I'll be going in tomorrow to see if they'll back their product at all since I did buy directly from the polaris dealer.

guidoxpress · Feb 17, 2014

Geez..hope it works out for U. It's def not a common issue

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Jones197666 · Feb 24, 2014

I'm going to go ahead and blame my hair colour on this one...Somehow I managed to install the left on the right and vice versa...

guidoxpress said:
Geez..hope it works out for U. It's def not a common issue

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guidoxpress · Feb 24, 2014

Omg lol..good find. But we've all done something dumb before trust me..just sucks it's a $100 mistake lol

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427cobra · Aug 4, 2014

I just installed the 7042080-067 and 7042079-067 torsion springs. I ran into a clearance issue with the top idler wheel and rear torque arm. I have a 2006 SB.

I posted some pictures in my other thread.

Anyone run into this before? I plan on returning them and running the normal HD springs shown as an option for the this sled.

Also do you guys remove the front spring cover, buy one that fits, or just run it as is?

Thanks,

guidoxpress · Aug 4, 2014

This is the reply I posted to ^^ his thread. Will he helpful for others as well so inserting it here also..

The front shock cover being loose is not a big deal. Some guys don't even use he cover, so don't worry about that

2nd, u don't wanna get a diff torsion spring trust me..u may have the wheel installed backwards..try switching it around and check clearance again one side is slightly different.

Last the torsion springs are "cocked" to an angle when no load is applied. They may straighten out once sled is on ground In Turn straightening them out.

427cobra · Aug 5, 2014

I took another look at it last night. The wheel was installed correctly and if I reversed it the interference got worse. I get what you’re saying about the spring being crooked with no load. When you go over a jump or something like that the suspension will come out of the tunnel (no load on suspension) and you will get the interference when riding.

Id really like to run these springs this winter….but I really don’t think they will work/fit correctly on my sled.

Has anyone else notice this tight fit before? You're essentially adding another coil which there doesn’t appear to be room for.

guidoxpress · Aug 5, 2014

By the looks of the collar that keeps the upper wheel on, your idler wheel has room to move. That being said, the track will only allow the wheel to move so much when installed. So I'm theory I think the track will self align the wheel.

But like I said I'm willing to buy the springs. I have lots of billet idlers I'll trade if ur interested also

guidoxpress · Sep 13, 2014

just to reattack this for the inquiring.

I bought the springs from 427Cobra and one of them was the wrong spring (the dealer missed it up and gave him the wrong one) and that was the one he was attempting to install w/o even opening the "correct" spring from the box, lol.

so we are all good and his intensions were in the right place but was given wrong items to work with...

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Budget Rear Skid Setup for 700/900s

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