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separated clutch removal?

S

Snowbird11

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Am I in over my head and need to take it to the dealer? Or is there a trick to removing this?
Currently my puller is backed out to where the threads are no longer contacting the clutch. unfortunately i still can't pull it out. i'm thinking it bent my puller and is still under tension. any ideas?
 
Snowbird11 said:
Am I in over my head and need to take it to the dealer? Or is there a trick to removing this?
Currently my puller is backed out to where the threads are no longer contacting the clutch. unfortunately i still can't pull it out. i'm thinking it bent my puller and is still under tension. any ideas?
Click to expand...

It does sound like you bent the tip so it can't leave the opening. Is the clutch still attached to the crank? If so, you do have a bit of a problem. If not you might be able to run the puller back into the clutch and get to the bent tip, if not.... hmmmmmm If it's still attached to the crank, and you have bent the tip and you force it out, you will mess up your crank stub threads... I'm speaking from experience!
 
hard to see in the pic, but is your clutch broken? and the puller is stuck in the crank stub?? :face-icon-small-con
If that clutch is in fact snapped off... then cutting through it and the puller close to the crank stub might give the tip of the puller a little more angle to come free...? then you'll have to cut the inner sheave off the crank stub. I have never had a bent puller get stuck in the crank, but I have had to cut an inner sheave off.
 
Oregonsledder said:
It does sound like you bent the tip so it can't leave the opening. Is the clutch still attached to the crank? If so, you do have a bit of a problem. If not you might be able to run the puller back into the clutch and get to the bent tip, if not.... hmmmmmm If it's still attached to the crank, and you have bent the tip and you force it out, you will mess up your crank stub threads... I'm speaking from experience!
Click to expand...

yes, it's still attached. I was hoping that i didn't bend it yet, since i didn't even get to the cheater bar before i realized something was wrong.

what do you think about welding the crack on both ends and trying to pull it again? if it does break off clean, is a 3 jaw puller able to get the fixed sheave off or will it just collapse the aluminum in?
 
Snowbird11 said:
yes, it's still attached. I was hoping that i didn't bend it yet, since i didn't even get to the cheater bar before i realized something was wrong.

what do you think about welding the crack on both ends and trying to pull it again? if it does break off clean, is a 3 jaw puller able to get the fixed sheave off or will it just collapse the aluminum in?
Click to expand...

I hesitate to give you a suggestion about how to extract that puller as Ive never dealt with that, and the consequences could be drastic if something goes wrong.

As for removing that inner sheave... I have done it several times by cutting the sheave from the outside perimiter towards the crank, stopping a little short of the crank. Then I stuck a prybar in the cut, close to the bottom of the cut by the crank. A small pry should crack the sheave enough to pop right off for you.
 
Danbot said:
hard to see in the pic, but is your clutch broken? and the puller is stuck in the crank stub?? :face-icon-small-con
If that clutch is in fact snapped off... then cutting through it and the puller close to the crank stub might give the tip of the puller a little more angle to come free...? then you'll have to cut the inner sheave off the crank stub. I have never had a bent puller get stuck in the crank, but I have had to cut an inner sheave off.
Click to expand...

yes i believe it is. the clutch now has an angle. if i could straighten it out, i might be able to remove the puller. i just don't want to mess the crank up.
 
tough call, someone has to have dealt with this double whammy... hopefully they notice this thread! Good luck
 
well, a little persuasion by hand while turning the puller got it out. the puller appears to still be true. i may take another go at it tomorrow with an air grinder or just throw in the towel and take it to the dealer. thanks for all the quick replies.
 
I think you just got past the sketchy part, so long as your crank threads survived.
 
these clutches are a paint to get off even every 500 miles i think. I bent the pit of one puller. I do the water trick now from the start seems to come right off first time doing it.
 
freak485 said:
these clutches are a paint to get off even every 500 miles i think. I bent the pit of one puller. I do the water trick now from the start seems to come right off first time doing it.
Click to expand...

i was doing the similar trick with grease and teflon tape. it doesn't work too well when the grease comes out the crack in the post.:face-icon-small-sad

i found some good ideas from indy dan and the dealer in this thread:

http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=239055
 
If you can safely weld the center shaft back together, then pull, that is your best bet. Use a straight clutch bolt to hold the pieces together, then weld up. Quickly get the clutch bolt out and puller back in while center hub is still hot and clutch should come off fairly easy. WORK FAST !!!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
High Velocity said:
If you can safely weld the center shaft back together, then pull, that is your best bet. Use a straight clutch bolt to hold the pieces together, then weld up. Quickly get the clutch bolt out and puller back in while center hub is still hot and clutch should come off fairly easy. WORK FAST !!!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Click to expand...
If your not fast enough, try the water or my preference acetone trick. That means you need a good weld 360 degrees around the clutch hub where it is cracked. You will get it off!
 
Any chance this sled is still under warranty? If it is I would just take it to the dealer and let them mess with it. That way if something happens and the crank stub gets messed up that would be covered to. Otherwise as others have said put the bolt back in and carefully weld it back together, making sure to take your time and not get the crank end to hot and messing up the seal. Then while the clutch is still hot it should pop off fairly easily. Key word being "should".
 
mtnclimber19 said:
Any chance this sled is still under warranty? If it is I would just take it to the dealer and let them mess with it. That way if something happens and the crank stub gets messed up that would be covered to.
Click to expand...

it should have been. this sled belongs to our cat skiing program. it was purchased with the full extended warranty but the buyer didn't read the fine print. it may have been transferred once already. I'm going to run it by the dealer later today and see what they can do. if it were my sled, i'd go ahead and pull the welder out and see what i could do. i just don't want to chance things going wrong with a rescue tool.
 
LoudHandle said:
If your not fast enough, try the water or my preference acetone trick. That means you need a good weld 360 degrees around the clutch hub where it is cracked. You will get it off!
Click to expand...

broke mine last year, easy fix. Weld it back together, make sure you gap where it broke about 1/16th of and inch before welding back together or it will stress break, use a wet rag to guard all components around the area to be welded, as said weld all the way around the broken part. add a dab of grease to the end of the puller, heat up the outer sheave and turn the clutch puller tool. Make sure you use the clutch back up wrench. Make sure you don't get it too hot. No problems and over 300 miles since performed.
 
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