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Carbed 2 stroke turbo guy's !!!

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If anyone is having issues or has questions that need answers please feel free to ask me....

I would like to see them posted here so others might benefit ..

Please, no bs, just direct questions that apply to your current set up or future set ups.

I will give part numbers and direct answers to your questions

Carbs really are simple tools that are just waiting for us to tell them what to do.....



Gus
:light:;)
BSP
 
RT 1000 2 stroke carb

We went to dyno with Rapid bike EFI and a Bikeman 1250cc RT Doo.
We are sure we can make EFI work for anyone that wants it.
Wondering if any turbo RT guys would like Timing control as well.
Is there a demand for a old motor and question for Gus is if we make EFI control for 600 Etec with timing etc. can it be tranfered to 800 carb model.
Really don't know much about SkiDoo 2 strokes.
 
As far as the ignitions go.All components for the swap are interchangeable on ALL DOO TWINS !

Flywheels are even a bolt and go swap.



Al.
Hong Kong Phooey ll' is in full swing right now !!!

getting the fuel oil mix into the bottom end on the RT is a big bonus to engine reliability, I bet Hoag would love to run it carbed !

I will have Steves engine running in chassis with the turbo in a few days..


Gus
 
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I've got a 04 King Cat Mito 3 turbo.....Actually runs good, I'm running 12# of boost, BUT, I don't like the oil system. Pump is awesome, it's a custom pump that runs off of the bottom o fengine crank shaft, and delivers a lot of pressure....about 120#. This is what I don't like.

It has a pressure relief valve (custom made)that opens and decreases the pressure, however, the valve is either getting stuck closed, (and pressure is running real high), or it gets stuck open, and pressure runs way to low...less than 5#.

The oil resovoir has 2 ventling lines on it, and when you tip the sled on the left side, or upside down, the oil pours out, then I'm left refilling, priming, and having issues. (I know , I know, why is my sled on it's side or upside down???LOL , What can I say...SH@#$% happens!) LOL

Anyway around this?

How hard would it be to convert this set up to a Garrett turbo? Could I just swap turbos, or would it basically bo a whoe new system?

Thanks for any repsonse.
 
Sorry
the thread is about CARB tuning issues, should have made it bold face type.


You have 90 psi to much oil pressure, you need LESS oil in the tank and set your vent hoses up to accept a rollover anti spill valve from JEGS for fuel tanks.
This way when you tip the check ball will stop your oil leakage..

SIMPLE stuff readilly availible..


gus
 
Gus,
I have a rev with a Mitsu turbo running around 9lbs boost (CPI kit)and I have run on when I let off of the throttle.

Question 1
Will a BOV help?

Question 2
What is the fix for the run on?
 
set your vent hoses up to accept a rollover anti spill valve from JEGS for fuel tanks.


SIMPLE stuff readilly availible..


gus


Not that readliy availible...maybe you can direct me to where I can buy the stuff to do this? I honestly couldn't find anything.

Thanks for your time, no more turbo questions that aren't carb related! LOL
 
Gus,
I have a rev with a Mitsu turbo running around 9lbs boost (CPI kit)and I have run on when I let off of the throttle.

Question 1
Will a BOV help?

Question 2
What is the fix for the run on?

The bov will take MOST of it oaway, make sure you install the bov in a manner so as NOT to spew its mess onto your clutches.

run on can be further reduced by internally venting the slides.
On the mikuni flatslides you would remove the slide, drill 2 8mm holes ( one on each side of the slide adjacent to the hole the needle itself is in ).

This will allow STATIC balance of the venturi pressure on both side of the slide, simply using hose from the airbox is not the solution.
airbox pressure and VENTURI pressure are very different things.

Using just venturi venting of the slides works very well.

When using a bov and boondocking it is strongly recomended you plumb the outlet of the bov back INTO either the compressor housing or the exhaust housing, this allows the turbo to maintain its rpm for instant response.


Jegs, part # 665-mp-3125
43.99$ each
you will need two

gus
 
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As far as the ignitions go.All components for the swap are interchangeable on ALL DOO TWINS !

Flywheels are even a bolt and go swap.



Al.
Hong Kong Phooey ll' is in full swing right now !!!

getting the fuel oil mix into the bottom end on the RT is a big bonus to engine reliability, I bet Hoag would love to run it carbed !

I will have Steves engine running in chassis with the turbo in a few days..


Gus
Thanks for the reply Gus...Brent is getting itchy to fiddle with my RT 1000...how about a few pics of Steve's sled...good info about the flywheels...Allen.
 
Not that readliy availible...maybe you can direct me to where I can buy the stuff to do this? I honestly couldn't find anything.

Thanks for your time, no more turbo questions that aren't carb related! LOL

Here you go snowmax.....http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stor...x=mode+matchpartial&searchTerm=roll+over+vent

Al you have mail.....

Thank You Gus for a absolutey burn down free year! I learned so much about my carbed turbo ski-doo this year and could have never got to where I'm at without your knowledge and help. Not only that I met a great friend. I can't wait to get Hong Kong Phooey II.
20090327_rfoutlaw_0521.jpg

Sled 002.jpg

Race the Face.jpg
 
The bov will take MOST of it oaway, make sure you install the bov in a manner so as NOT to spew its mess onto your clutches.

run on can be further reduced by internally venting the slides.
On the mikuni flatslides you would remove the slide, drill 2 8mm holes ( one on each side of the slide adjacent to the hole the needle itself is in ).

This will allow STATIC balance of the venturi pressure on both side of the slide, simply using hose from the airbox is not the solution.
airbox pressure and VENTURI pressure are very different things.

Using just venturi venting of the slides works very well.

When using a bov and boondocking it is strongly recomended you plumb the outlet of the bov back INTO either the compressor housing or the exhaust housing, this allows the turbo to maintain its rpm for instant response.


Jegs, part # 665-mp-3125
43.99$ each
you will need two

gus

Where is the best place to plumb the bov into? The reed cage?
 
Right behind the slide would be prefered..

The bov can only react as fast as the slide falls, so use of one without the other being set up properly is moot...


If you really want to have the carbs SNAP shut, use dynamic pressure to the top of the carb fitting rather than static.

using a pitot tube in the charge tube would provide the pressure you desire for INSTANT, Snap shut throttles..

Whats really causing this is Venturi pressure UNDER the slide is higher than static airbox pressure, thus the delay in overcoming the incoming charge and dropping the slide thru it.

Using dynamic pressure would solve this for ALL carb users.
There, the proverbial CAT is out of the bag :D:beer;:eek:

Gus
 
Right behind the slide would be prefered

The bov can only react as fast as the slide falls, so use of one without the other being set up properly is moot...


If you really want to have the carbs SNAP shut, use dynamic pressure to the top of the carb fitting rather than static.
I am confused on the difference between dynamic and static.

using a pitot tube in the charge tube would provide the pressure you desire for INSTANT, Snap shut throttles..

I have a fitting in the top of the carb going to the airbox where should this go


Whats really causing this is Venturi pressure UNDER the slide is higher than static airbox pressure, thus the delay in overcoming the incoming charge and dropping the slide thru it.

Using dynamic pressure would solve this for ALL carb users.
There, the proverbial CAT is out of the bag :D:beer;:eek:

Gus

So what I need to do is
1: drill a 8mm hole in the slide
2: plumb the top of the carb from the airbox to where?

anything else

Thanks for the info

Paul
 
Sorry Paul,
just went thru some mikuni flatslides and found we cannot use the venturi venting method as these slides are not built large enough for it.

I use different mikuni flats on the systems I send out.


Static pressure is just that the pressure in the baloon so to speak
Dynamic pressure is velocity induced pressure, sticking your hand out the window while driving is dynamic pressure.

closing the windows of the car is static pressure.

you need to use airspeed and pressure, thus dynamic. The end result is higher pressure ABOVE the slide to drive it down , the other benefit of this method is as you close the throttles the pressure in the airbox rises momentarily, this rise will be exerted on the slide top driving it closed.!


You need a pitot , use steel brakeline swept to a 90 degree angle, drill into the charge tube anyhere its convienient and insert it. Face the open end toward the turbo and weld it into place.

Run the line to a t fitting and then to each carbtop..
that will give the effect you seek.

You can send me the charge tube and I can turn it around in 1 day for you.
$ 75 plus shipping.

Notice EFI does not see this NOR did we see it on the outboards,, butterfly throttles see dynamic at close .....thus slamming the butterfly closed..
Gus
 
Good post Gus. It's nice to see all the interest in the carbed two stroke turbos. From what you seen on my post, the demand is there for the Ski-Doo guys. Glad to see you are helping and giving information to those who still have unanswered questions. Good for you:beer;.

Dave
 
1000cc Thundercat turbo. Trying to get this thing ready for some shake down runs here for grass. I built this from the ground up and this is not my first turbo sled or first carbed turbo sled. Here is what I'm running Mallory 1:1 regulator Holley fuel pump running 3 psi in the carbs. Garrett 3076 turbo with the triple pipes running into the turbo then exiting the side of the chassis.

This sled is only going to be used for radar runing and grass. So i'm not to worried about trail riding freindly setup.

My questions is this will be my first triple turbo what I'm I missing. The reason I'm doing this is alot of people are saying it cant be done so I took it as a challange and I'm going to figure it out one way or another. But a little inside help wouldnt hurt either.

Thanks

Mike Fuchs
 
The reason I'm doing this is alot of people are saying it cant be done so I took it as a challange and I'm going to figure it out one way or another. But a little inside help wouldnt hurt either.

Wow.... that sounds SOOOOOOO familiar. Good friend has been workin on his tripple turbo for a few years now. Finally this weekend, we(well I should really say he) made huge strides. I got to ride it at 10lbs....WOW!!! Once you get it going, you will have a permagrin!!!!!!!

Carbed turbo's rule!!! Good thread Gus!!!!
 
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1000cc Thundercat turbo. Trying to get this thing ready for some shake down runs here for grass. I built this from the ground up and this is not my first turbo sled or first carbed turbo sled. Here is what I'm running Mallory 1:1 regulator Holley fuel pump running 3 psi in the carbs. Garrett 3076 turbo with the triple pipes running into the turbo then exiting the side of the chassis.

This sled is only going to be used for radar runing and grass. So i'm not to worried about trail riding freindly setup.

My questions is this will be my first triple turbo what I'm I missing. The reason I'm doing this is alot of people are saying it cant be done so I took it as a challange and I'm going to figure it out one way or another. But a little inside help wouldnt hurt either.

Thanks

Mike Fuchs

Get it out and running Mike,
lets see how you did and what needs to be addressed.

Gus
:eek:
 
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