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F-Bomb and other Track Mods........

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Spaarky

Well-known member
Oct 5, 2001
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Chester, SD
Well, I am at a stand still with my little project sled. I am waiting for a few vital parts to show up.

The track is sitting there on the garage floor, and I am not into sitting and watching TV at night...

would like to do the F-Bomb track mod and possibly "port" the track or at least that is what the kids call it these days... I am not sold on the porting, maybe it is a waste of time?

Its a 08' 155 RMK track...

what do I need and what is the best process for both????

thanks... Justin
 
O

Ollie

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I wouldn't bother "porting" it. The windows have been made larger to evacuate the snow better. I have been running the 08 700 with the 155 and had zero problem with snow buildup.

I would just run it. You can always port it later if you feel the desire.
 
D
Nov 26, 2007
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Northern Utah
I rode a ported and non ported track back to back on my sled the non was a 156 and the ported was 159 and they felt about the same so bigger track turning same rpm and mph seems worth it to me. I had 3 acrossed the middle. and have seen ones on the sides too just use a dull hole saw. Its very time consuming but I think its worth it.
 
P

PalousePoo

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
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He trims the tip off, I think 1/4", then runs screws down into them to stiffen the lug. I'm sure that would be great in hard pack, but what about in powder Rob?????
 
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Ron

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I rode a ported and non ported track back to back on my sled the non was a 156 and the ported was 159 and they felt about the same so bigger track turning same rpm and mph seems worth it to me. I had 3 acrossed the middle. and have seen ones on the sides too just use a dull hole saw. Its very time consuming but I think its worth it.

If you port a track make a template with a piece of aluminum or metal plate or angle. Drill 3 holes in the template at a spacing that centers between the drive windows. (Don't center the 3 holes but calculate where the centers of the finished holes will go to spread 3 holes evenly.) Then drill a pilot hole (use a bit with a center pilot tip) in your track to use with your hole saw so that you get a pattern that is exactly the same each time. You don't want to get your track out of balance by having any irregularity. Use a hole saw usually 1" or 1 1/8" & drill backwards at first if you have binding. Usually can just drill it without that step.
Porting reduces rotating mass & helps snow evacuation without hurting the track. I wouldn't port the outer web just drill 3 holes in the centers.
 
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F-Bomb

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Nov 26, 2007
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I highly recommend it! It made a track that is primarily only good in the powder great in all conditions. I experienced ZERO powder performance fall off. It was done on a 144 sled with about 140hp. Rode thousands of mtn miles right beside all kinds of bigger sleds with more track in over your head pow pow and you can see I"m still here! As a matter of fact "little blackie" often times was one of the few that made the grade when others were RE-JECTED. Surely it wasn't my mad super human riding skillZ...had to be the track! (actually there is a fine line of track flotation, paddle design or traction, weight of vehicle, and motation of said track that creates a good transmission device)

Let's see:
100% better on the trail
100% better on ice, rocks, and fallen trees for boondocking
100% better control coming down crazy luge runs
100% better drag racing
100% better brake response
100% better hillclimb race track (probably more then 100%)
some level of reduction of HP robbing windage
crap removed weighed the same as crap added
NO NOTICABLE HANDICAP IN DEEP FLUFFY POW POW

the bad:
won't go at all on the shop floor
hurts and tears up your clothes when you land on the track while it's spinning
time and energy

If you are going to do this make 100% certain that you have clearance in your tunnel and with your front cooler if you have one!
 

RMK4life

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Nov 27, 2007
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Do you think that it would be possible to get some pics to see what this mod looks like?
 

mountainhorse

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Rob,
Is that a series 4 (IV) 144 track ?

What length and brand of screws did you use?

How much did you trim from the 2.4" lug?

If it's a series IV... how are the mods working on the series 5.1 tracks... especially the higher duro single layer ones?

See you in Puyallup!

trackwscrews2.jpg


As for the Porting.... I like the price on the BD-Extreme tool (an industrial arch punch with the mod to chuck it up in a drill)...
This tool wont snag the Kevlar threads and will leave a clean cut...
A lot of people are taking the same concept with a hole saw that has been sharpend on the edge the same as this tool... but I sill like this one better!

Keep a couple of cans of silicone spray lube handy to ease the operation along


http://bd-xtreme.com/bdxpro-liteseriestrackportingtool.aspx

50073TrackPortingTool.jpg


Most Arch-Punches dont have the reduced shank to chuck up into a drill like the BDX has :face-icon-small-win
149.jpg
 
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mountainhorse

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Gouging??

Yea, Thats my only real concern with that... especially with the full length coolers on the RAW chassis...

I'm sure that Rob rides the pizz out of "Blackie" and hasn't mentioned a problem.

Any recent pics of the roof of the tunnel on Ole 10X?

Ya we used to do that all the time on hill climbers sleds. We always put in tunnel protectors though cause they can chew the he!! out of a tunnel in a hurry.
 
E
Nov 28, 2007
606
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Spokane WA
Wow i think F-bomb just likes to hear himself talk. It doesnt make that big of a difference. My buddy started to port his and got lazy. He had 1, 1" Hole everyother paddle drilled out and there wasnt one ounce of snow build up. I drilled a 3, 1" and 2, 1 1/2 every other, and his was cleared out just as much as mine. If i could go back i would have done like mybuddy did, and not waste all the time.
 
S

Spaarky

Well-known member
Oct 5, 2001
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Chester, SD
If you are going to do this make 100% certain that you have clearance in your tunnel and with your front cooler if you have one!

with the drop and roll I just completed, I would assume it is enough room.... no cooler, removed with the D&R
 

Bagger

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Wow i think F-bomb just likes to hear himself talk. It doesnt make that big of a difference. My buddy started to port his and got lazy. He had 1, 1" Hole everyother paddle drilled out and there wasnt one ounce of snow build up. I drilled a 3, 1" and 2, 1 1/2 every other, and his was cleared out just as much as mine. If i could go back i would have done like mybuddy did, and not waste all the time.

Exman,

F-Bomb isn't talking about porting the track here, he's talking about triming and stiffening the paddles with screws. Let's all try to focus. I know we are impatient for snow, but just hang in there a little longer.

Bagger
 
S

sodfarmer

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Dec 5, 2007
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Didn't someone put screw in their lugs and then clip the heads off? How did that work out.
 
C

Clarke673

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Dec 2, 2007
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Gardiner Montana
So let’s say a guy did every other lug with the screws, and porting? That way your track would be lighter (less rotational mass) port snow and it would still perform well on all terrains!?!?
 
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