Yeti brake life????

[assaultn]

Just wondering how many hours guys are getting out of their brakes? Was going over my kit today getting ready for the season and realized brakes are pooched. I ran the 2017 kit for about half a season last year totalling about 20hrs. Is this normal? I'm usually a really Nazi in terms of maintenance and check overs but never looked at brakes as I had such low hours on it. Pads are completely gone with scaring on rotor.I know there was a brake upgrade for 2017 but if this is what you get for life with the upgrade what were guys getting out of the 2016 brakes?

 

[GreenState]

Just wondering how many hours guys are getting out of their brakes? Was going over my kit today getting ready for the season and realized brakes are pooched. I ran the 2017 kit for about half a season last year totalling about 20hrs. Is this normal? I'm usually a really Nazi in terms of maintenance and check overs but never looked at brakes as I had such low hours on it. Pads are completely gone with scaring on rotor.I know there was a brake upgrade for 2017 but if this is what you get for life with the upgrade what were guys getting out of the 2016 brakes?

Mine didn't last very long. Supposedly everyone that got a '17 kit was going to be sent a new rotor and pads, but I haven't got mine yet.

I did find the pads on Amazon for a lot less than Yeti charges and the delivery is a whole lot faster.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002G30BA8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

However, changing the pads is a real joy. I'll put up a how-to when I change mine again, but in summary you have to disconnect the brake line, unbolt the caliper, remove the upper bolt from the front torque arm, and then use a spreader clamp to push the side of the tunnel far enough out that the brake caliper can drop out. Then you change the pads on the bench, put it all back together and bleed the system. The other option is to pull the driveshaft, which you will have to do if you need to replace the rotor.....

 

[dooman92]

Yeti brake pads

Probably doesn't help a lot, but I wonder if mototrax used the same brake pad in 2017. I got just a few more hours out of the pads on my 17 mototrax. Same deal, pad friction material gone. The pads off the mototrax appear to be manufactured by wilwood, #150-8990 6407? I recall the pads were available from several sources so not specific to mototrax. Also, a harder longer lasting option was available. I'm curious, is it the same pad? Maybe really poor friction material.

 

[GreenState]

One thing I did notice when I changed the pads is that the rotor 'floats' on the drive shaft. There is about 1/16" - 1/8" play at the edge of the rotor.

I called Yeti and sent them a video and they confirmed that it was normal.

Just wondering if that contributes to accelerated pad wear...

 

[yamboosta]

They didn't get the treatment correct on rotors.
2016 kits are good. Just need updated rotor

 

[NEWDUCK]

One thing I did notice when I changed the pads is that the rotor 'floats' on the drive shaft. There is about 1/16" - 1/8" play at the edge of the rotor.

I called Yeti and sent them a video and they confirmed that it was normal.

Just wondering if that contributes to accelerated pad wear...

A floating rotor makes less brake pad wear. But common sense would make you think a braking system should have zero play.

 

[barefooter]

Ya normal. Went through three sets last year.

Kevin and Jamie said there would be an update this year

 

[Philmyguns]

Caliper on my 2016 puked out all the fluid when I disconnected the banjo bolt from the Master cylinder. Before I take it to the dealer on my dime, anyone know why it would do that? Called Casmso because I've heard there is recall or warranty on brakes, but they assured me it is only on 2018 and newer. Anyone know otherwise? They told me to call C3, but I can't imagine C3 would give me the time of day. I would disassemble and take apart myself, but without the special tool and know how it doesn't seem like my best option...

 

[bighuckpunk]

That will happen when you remove the banjo bolt. Reassemble (with new washers) and bleed the system. You should be fine. You tube will teach you all you need to know about bleeding brakes. I usually have to bleed mine at least a couple of times to get all the air out. Good luck!

 

[portgrinder]

There were lots of issues on the brakes.

The first gen ones are ok if you remember to pump them before you need them.

The billet calipers ~2017 were designed better. Just didn’t end up better once in production. issues with them is 1. the bleed screw does not seat right. You gotta crank it in about 1/2 a turn past where you think you are going to strip the threads to get it to seal. Or put some pipe tape on it. That was the warranty issue. 2. The o-rings on the pistons have a small ridge in them so many times they don’t seal. That’s where the air gets sucked in. I looked all over at seal shops to get better ones but couldn’t source em. 3 if you get 1 and 2 working then the billet setup will work ok if the pads are new and you over-bend or double up the little springs behind the pads. Once the pads get worn down the springs don’t have enough stroke to do anything.

On the newer models I think they have a cover over the rotor. Not sure how this is doing