I installed a new dynoport pipe, Y, and silencer, a 13-1 chuckaroo head, and a roosterbuilt clutch kit on my 2009 XP 800 -163. Took it out and for the first 10 easy miles it ran great, tached right at 8200 at full thottle, and there were no adverse engine indications (knock sensors/overheat lights, etc.) The conditions were firm and after walking up and down several steep grades the overheat light illuminated and the rpms dropped off at WOT. I shut it down and packed snow on the exchangers until it was cool then started it up and verifying that the overheat light was out rode the trails to the truck. The sled ran fine excepting it would not tach more than 7800 rpm for the rest of the ride -it would accelerate rapidly then fluxuate around 7800 with a reduction in power (the knock display and other lights did not indicate any problems.) It is not using any coolant and other than the overheat light there weren't any signs that is was hot. I was running 94 octane oxygenated fuel that was purchased 3 months ago.
I have checked the compression (at sea level) and it is even at 164 lbs both sides using the electric starter (156 lbs cranking by hand) both of which were done with the throttle wide open switching between 3 different compression testors, the plugs are a nice dark brown (both electrode and insulator), the primary clutch was removed and the rollers, ramps, etc are all in perfect order, the secondary clutch was inspected and the rollers are all intact. I also removed and verified the DPM selenoid is operating correctly. I just now retarded the timing 1 degree to hedge against deto from the higher compression head.
I have a friend that has access to a $10,000 fuel tester which we'll use to verify the octane and other fuel related #s are correct. It won't be back in the state for a couple weeks -patience.
Suggestions?
I have checked the compression (at sea level) and it is even at 164 lbs both sides using the electric starter (156 lbs cranking by hand) both of which were done with the throttle wide open switching between 3 different compression testors, the plugs are a nice dark brown (both electrode and insulator), the primary clutch was removed and the rollers, ramps, etc are all in perfect order, the secondary clutch was inspected and the rollers are all intact. I also removed and verified the DPM selenoid is operating correctly. I just now retarded the timing 1 degree to hedge against deto from the higher compression head.
I have a friend that has access to a $10,000 fuel tester which we'll use to verify the octane and other fuel related #s are correct. It won't be back in the state for a couple weeks -patience.
Suggestions?
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