anybody selling twin pipes for a polaris xc 600 sp 2004. would also need the rest of the kit, flange and can. thanks.
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You put a little grease on the secondary shaft, and remove all signs of rust on it, as well as have enough washers so the secondary slides back and forth to allow the secondary to align with the primary by itself.happy new year! thanks for the info. got better knowledge than before! i have done quite a bit of work on my edge 500. i made it into a 600, changed the top end, send the heat so that it'll have a high compression head, so now its using c14 racing fuel. worked on the cylinders so that the gas flow will be better. re-jetting and changed the pilot jet. changed the gears, changed the weights and spring on the primary. also changed the spring and helix on the secondary. changed the cdi so that the timing will be advanced for the high compression. put racing mbrp can since i couldnt find twin pipes. i made it mainly for snow drag races. have yet to play around with the clutch as they arent quite aligned. oh, and changed the rail/track from 121 to 126 and put studded 1 1/5 track. so now all i really need now is twin pipes to increase the hp a little more to gain some extra power to beat every opponent...lol, but i know that isnt always possible.
I dont recall saying anything about upgrading my air box, i just said that i removed the bulky air box and installed air filters. if you have even seen an edge, you will see how poorly the air box was made. my brother has an iantomasi 1240 triple, was professionally assembled and its using a very similar type of filters that i am using. i went with how that 1240 was made so i am guessing it should be fine since its only a 600.On mountain sleds, removing the air box is not an upgrade. The issue is, like @volcano buster mentioned, you'll be sucking hot air if you don't do some ducting. It should be easy to find a solution to that on a drag sled though. Also, there may be some intake tuning that you could stand to lose with too short or long a pipe to the filter. I can't say for sure on that one. Since you're talking about a heavily modified sled, I'd consider the SLP twin pipes. They probably come up used now and then. I think the mounting is different at the mid-point of the pipe because of a different front suspension between the RMK and XC, but even if so, some fabrication should overcome that issue. You'd probably have to write your own book on tuning (I think SLP's recommendations are based on a hot pipe), but the gains should be there.
you keep referring to "mountain riding" this is a machine made for drag racing, i never said "mountain" but since you've owned the RMK you are referring my machine to your RMK. also, i am not trying to get "gains" its to eliminate possible snow entering the carb then damaging the piston. like i mentioned before, if you have seen the air box on an edge, the big black removable cover that supposedly covers the open area where the carb. and the air box meet, there are some areas that are not sealed properly. i know for a fact, as soon as snow enters through that gap, while the carbs are wide open, the snow will go directly to the piston(s) and rapid cooling will instantly destroy the piston(s) so that is the main reason why i did what i did, those who own "edge" snowmobile(s) and do the work will have a very clear understanding, again, i made the machine for drag racing and not meant to be used in "mountains" but thanks for the explanation, i am pretty sure there will be somebody out there that will read this and learn something about the function(s) and gain some knowledge. have a good day!I've been through everything on my EDGE RMK 600 except for the internals of the engine itself, which has held up beautifully. I've also parted an 800 RMK that had the stock airbox removed and replaced with K&N style filters. There is no way the PO gained anything over the stock airbox on that sled; all I'm pointing out is that eliminating the air box and slapping a set of filters on is a step backward if you don't pay attention to the details (like that guy did). I've never seen or heard of anyone removing the air box on a 600 VES and seeing any gains in mountain riding; maybe it is poorly made, but it does its job. There's nothing wrong with the kind of setup you're talking about, provided you're getting outside air to it, not hot under-hood air, and you don't introduce a negative intake resonance for the RPM you're targeting with too short or long an intake track. You seem to know exactly what you're doing; good luck with it.
HAVE you considered making your own forum about making the biggest issue about a stupid air box?!? i mean, just get over it! if you are having the hardest time not liking the fact that removing a stupid air box from a RMK/XC then go ahead and make your own forum! nobody's stopping you! then you can have your own trend about how wrong it is and that it decreases HP. feel totally free! i will not scoop down and be dumb about a stupid air box, i have a better life than that, way better!Have you considered a forum not dedicated to mounting riding? The air box setup you're referring to is an older style: for '04, the RMK and XC used the same air box, which is basically one piece with two boots that interface with the carb flanges. It seems the newer style would solve all your problems. We're swimming in powder (on a good day at least), running the stock air box, and yet snow ingestion isn't common at all with EDGE RMKs.
MY GOODNESS!!! i mean, i've never known anybody in my whole life who makes the biggest deal out of nothing! everybody, look at what he's complaining about! dont be afraid to laugh at him. im done with this stupid ****, LOLWow, this is good! And I even forgot to get to the part where not running the stock air box gives you syphilis...