Just bought a 2015 wr450 and Timbersled lt mounted to it with 6 hours total time. Previous owner had purchased it from a dealer who set it up. So in order to get this thing dialed please give me some tips on set up. I am told by the owner that the speedo drive needed to be turned as it sent a fault code to the ecm. So I'm asking if there is a chip to be added? It just seems weird that the dealer would just tuck the speedo drive in amontst the wires at the handlebar and leave it exposed. Also I beleive that a thermostat is needed. and anything else I should look at, Help, is greatly appreceiated.
wr450 help
- Thread starter Roly
- Start date
Great what did you do with your speedo drive? dangling off of the bars seems a little weird!
R
Rush44
Well-known member
So are you saying behind the handlebars you have the entire speedo cable and the hub all bundled up and zip tied off? My first snowbike was an 08 WR450 and I remember being able to disconnect the cable without throwing a code, so maybe the new ones are different. Seems to me there would be some way to flash or code the unit to omit the speedo. If you get the code the unit flashes we can double check and make sure the code matches up right.
I would run a thermostat if you plan on running any deep powder at all. It's good for the motor, helps with eliminating fuel from the oil, and it's not that bad as far as upgrades go... around $125.
Depending on how much you want to sink into upgrades there is ALWAYS another thing you can do. I think the basics are the stat, bar risers, bark busters, and some foot pegs.
I would run a thermostat if you plan on running any deep powder at all. It's good for the motor, helps with eliminating fuel from the oil, and it's not that bad as far as upgrades go... around $125.
Depending on how much you want to sink into upgrades there is ALWAYS another thing you can do. I think the basics are the stat, bar risers, bark busters, and some foot pegs.
I have a 2013 wr450 and just unplug the speedo drive behind the number plate and remove it. No issues with codes as the speedo only feeds to the gauge not the ECM. As far as other things needed. You need to get the gytr competition kit and tuner. Get a thermo bob also. And make up a set of shrouds to keep the heat in. I also wrapped my header pipe. Get rid of the stock muffler, anything aftermarket will be way better. I had a two brothers m7 slip on but it was falling apart and all cracked up. I put the stock one back on but removed the first baffle inside the muffler per a thread I found on advrider forum. The modified stocker was no where near the power of the two bros. hand gaurds are a must on any snowbike. You will also most likely have to take your bike to the dealer and have them adjust the co setting, it may have been done already. You'll know if it starts decent with the electric start. I wish I had a '16 kit so I could play with the gearing. Gearing isnt the best on a wr for snowbiking. I find 2nd too low and 3rd too tall. I end up shifting under full throttle so I don't get stuck. The worst thing about the wr is the weight. I'm setting up my yz250 2 stroke next winter and see how it compares.
I have a 2013 WR and it throws a code for the speedo. It never gives an actual code number, just the warning light comes on. I know it was the speedo because as soon as I put the wheels back on in the spring the code went away. There is a plug behind the headlight you can disconnect the cable, and then I just tape it up and tie wrap the tape on. I asked the dealership about getting rid of the code and they didn't think I could.
I am looking at adding one of these before next season.
http://www.bajadesigns.com/ProductDetail?ItemNumber=507001
I am looking at adding one of these before next season.
http://www.bajadesigns.com/ProductDetail?ItemNumber=507001
Have seen 8 and 10 as recommend co settings.... Input?
Yes, a WR with the stock ECM will throw a code light if the speedo is unplugged. If you purchase the GYTR ECM it does not look for the spedo, and you can use the GYTR programer to adjust the fuel curves and timing. I would recommend it.
You do need to run the Thermobob. It is necessary. We do sell them here at RMS. Give us a call, for it and all of your snow MX needs. Engine shrouds are great to have also.
You will also have to have custom fork springs. The stockers are to light!!!!!!
If you hold the throttle open just enough to take the slack out of the cables. The casting line of the grip and the casting line on the rubber boot of the throttle cable protector condom.
It will start most of the time on the first hit. If it does not start on the first hit. Stop, and try it again. They never start by excessive cranking.
We sell EarthX battery's for your application. The added power helps spin the WR spin fast enough to help it start, on the button.
Big improvement come with the addition of a FMF pipe and Bazzaz Fuel controller.
You do need to run the Thermobob. It is necessary. We do sell them here at RMS. Give us a call, for it and all of your snow MX needs. Engine shrouds are great to have also.
You will also have to have custom fork springs. The stockers are to light!!!!!!
If you hold the throttle open just enough to take the slack out of the cables. The casting line of the grip and the casting line on the rubber boot of the throttle cable protector condom.
It will start most of the time on the first hit. If it does not start on the first hit. Stop, and try it again. They never start by excessive cranking.
We sell EarthX battery's for your application. The added power helps spin the WR spin fast enough to help it start, on the button.
Big improvement come with the addition of a FMF pipe and Bazzaz Fuel controller.
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