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WR450 almost ready!

Got the WR almost ready for snow with a 15 ST kit. Made some engine covers to keep snow out and heat in, Thermo Bob, heated grips with Skinz covers over UFO guards, Rekluse Core and LH brake kit, Cyclops headlamp bulb, Koso G2 meter with water temp & AF ratio. Just got the GYT CDI box and then an FMF pipe on the way. I read here about setting the CO to ? 8? Helps the over fuel? Haven't decided on Dobeck or JD Jetting tuner, if needed? Any input on that stuff? Thanks

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I'd go with a dobeck or the power commander with autotune. The JD tuner is a joke.

Please tell me more!! Have tried via phone and e-mail SEVERAL times to talk to anyone at Dobeck for info and ordering and get zero response. I've used lots of JD jets with great luck and awesome support after the sale but am pretty open to the right set up. I will have a O2 sensor for the AFR gauge so might as well do the right tuner? No one has any input on CO setting?!? Engine covers?!? Thx!!
 
I use the gytr tuner solely on my yz450f. Ignition timing makes a huge difference! An afr gauge is the best for fuel tuning. But a couple degrees advanced ignition across the board really wakes up the yz. Not positive on the wr, but should be similar, sweet bike, the rear intake is way better than the front intake on the yz.
 
Hey Guys.

Great pick on that WR for a snowbike! That will will be a fun setup and you're sure on your way with those accessories you've already added.
If you wish to check into our fuel + Ignition controller, it is part number 22-053 ready to ship and has maps available for that exact setup with the FMF exhaust. We also offer a PCFC fuel Only controller at a lower price point of $249 programmable with up to 10 maps (the same FMF mentioned map is also compatible with this PCFC device) and avails in field tuning from the turn of a knob.
From my workings with the WR, they can sometimes become a bear to start especially when just using the button. Utilizing our ignition table to add a few degrees at start-up plus pulling quite a bit of fuel from that precise location rectifies this. And as mentioned, a few degrees through the range really does wake up that engine especially on the snow. Cool thing is, if you wish to trail ride this WR in the summer, you can simply set timing back to zero advance/retard to have a sweet smooth ride on dirt.
Since you've already welded in a bung to monitor AFR, adding the Autotune accessory would be simple if you opt for it. Pairing this with the PCV will constantly monitor your AFR and keep it at the exact value you wish real-time as you ride. Though not always needed, it does provide a peace of mind that you aren't overfueling or getting lean when out there hammering through the snowdrifts.

With any other questions, I'm happy to help.
~T.J.
 
Please tell me more!! Have tried via phone and e-mail SEVERAL times to talk to anyone at Dobeck for info and ordering and get zero response. I've used lots of JD jets with great luck and awesome support after the sale but am pretty open to the right set up. I will have a O2 sensor for the AFR gauge so might as well do the right tuner? No one has any input on CO setting?!? Engine covers?!? Thx!!

I sell Dobeck products and generally have good luck getting a hold of them. If you have any questions fee free to shoot me a PM or email dteal210@gmail.com

If I can't answer your questions, I'm sure I can get a timely response from Dobeck.
 
The GYTR tuner is all you need . Wr is indeed a bear to start on the button but starts at any temp on the second kick better than any other bike in the cold -- go figure that one out. ( at least mine is ) I was going to a YZ but my dealer sold the last ones, they went like hotcakes for snow bikes . 2015 won't be here till the new Year he just saved me 8 big ones :face-icon-small-win
You should build a different skid plate , I just made mine out of 1/4 inch teflon impregnated plastic as wide as the rad's sealing up all the way up to the Radiator so no snow gets in. Below the engine I made it only as wide as the frame rails so snow falls right of and does not pack in like on the OEM skid plate.That coupled with your thermostat and enclosure will be a killer set up.
Once set up the Yamaha's are just a kick and go no messing around machine. I run the hottest Map for the full system that yamaha list for the Tuner( Max Advance minimum fuel-- with a pod filter) I have not seen any appreciable gains made with anything else. You can spend all winter trying to find a extra 1/2 HP or ride and spend all winter honing your riding skills:face-icon-small-con
 
Do you have any pics on where you put the bung on the pipe Snowrider76? I'm getting ready to put mine on my 13 WR and want to know if there is a better spot than where I'm looking.
 
Snowrider76 I was wondering how you like your set up? I'm in the process of building a 2014 WR450 and I think I'm going to go with a long track not sure. Do you have the gytr competition ecu and if so are you finding any good maps that are working for you? Any other useful information that you would have would be greatly appreciated. So far I have installed
2014 WR450f uncorked
Gytr competition ECU with yamaha tuner
Heated grips
Barkbusters
Trail tech voyager gps
Gytr radiator guards
After market skid plate and engine shroud
Fastway adventure foot pegs
Thermo bob
Can't decide on LT OR ST
 
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I have two 2014 WR450F's in my demo fleet and hands down the favorite is the LT.

In previous years the riders under 200lbs always gravitated to the ST. This year even the 170lb riders are enjoying the LT over the ST. " The T is so smothe and transfer the power so well. "

My WR's are both set up very similar to yours.

I have even have demo riders feeling comfortable enough on the LT to do 8' drops on their first ride, which I never would've seen before in previous years.

The new 2015 LT is a game changer!!!!!
 
Since we are on WR builds I thought I would add the mods I have done and that are working well.

Cut the full bottom and back out of the stock air box from the seam all the way back. You do not want to leave the bottom in the box. it will suck melted snow/ water into the PCV and cause milky oil. Run the Timbersled Outerware over the washed clean non-oiled stock foam and cage.

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I also like the Avid Thermostat in the 15mm design. It fits very well on the 90 in the upper hose. CAUTION!!! only mount the Avid in this configuration if you are running the GTYR radiator guards. It will rub on the radiator if you do not have these guards in place.

I will be doing temperature testing shrouded and non shrouded this weekend on identical bikes.

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Since we are on WR builds I thought I would add the mods I have done and that are working well.

Cut the full bottom and back out of the stock air box from the seam all the way back. You do not want to leave the bottom in the box. it will suck melted snow/ water into the PCV and cause milky oil. Run the Timbersled Outerware over the washed clean non-oiled stock foam and cage.

picture.php


picture.php


I also like the Avid Thermostat in the 15mm design. It fits very well on the 90 in the upper hose. CAUTION!!! only mount the Avid in this configuration if you are running the GTYR radiator guards. It will rub on the radiator if you do not have these guards in place.

I will be doing temperature testing shrouded and non shrouded this weekend on identical bikes.

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Would it work to rotate the rear half of the thermostat housing so the bypass line is pointing down? The hose would be shorter and a cleaner installation. Also does the avid come with the hose adapter that goes in the lower radiator hose?
 
Here's a couple of pics of my 13 WR w LT, Avid Tstat, rads blocked and now shrouded. I didn't like how far of a run the bypass was going to make on the tstat and was able to squeak it in between the header and make a bracket to fit on the UniBiker rad guards on the opposite side. Unfortunately I have no pics, I'll try and get them up soon. Its tight to plumb with all the electrical running through but it will go.

Unshrouded and just the tstat, in 3' of fluff I had a hard time pushing 80 degrees while riding. Then would stop and let the motor get up to 190 and proceed but with the temps would drop rapidly after I started riding. Hottest temps I saw were on the trail on the way in and out and I pushed 209.

Toby and those that have cut the bottom of the air box out. Do you have to protect the breather hoses in any way or just leave them open. Also what gearing are you using I feel wrapped in 2nd using the stock 13t countershaft and the stock TS gearing

Snowbike Shrourd 1.jpg Snowbike Shroud 2.jpg
 
Since we are on WR builds I thought I would add the mods I have done and that are working well.

Cut the full bottom and back out of the stock air box from the seam all the way back. You do not want to leave the bottom in the box. it will suck melted snow/ water into the PCV and cause milky oil. Run the Timbersled Outerware over the washed clean non-oiled stock foam and cage.

picture.php


picture.php


I also like the Avid Thermostat in the 15mm design. It fits very well on the 90 in the upper hose. CAUTION!!! only mount the Avid in this configuration if you are running the GTYR radiator guards. It will rub on the radiator if you do not have these guards in place.

I will be doing temperature testing shrouded and non shrouded this weekend on identical bikes.

picture.php

What do you do when its time to turn back to dirt, buy a new airbox?
 
Ended up not modifying the airbox on my 15 WR nad have not had any issues clogging up even on Deep days, oNice thing with the WR is the quick open filter door so its easy to check throughout the day
 
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