Wouldn't this be the perfect clutch alignment???

[AaronBND]

I know their is a lot of talk on here and the other forums about proper clutch alignment, which got me playing and doing some testing in the shop. Wouldn't this be the perfect clutch alignment to YOUR sled?

- You take a bar and lock it in your secondary sheaves so it runs up through the primary clutch.

- You subtract the width of your bar from the outer sheave on the primary shaft to simulate the primary being closed the same amount the secondary is open.

- You measure on both sides of your bar and shim the secondary accordingly to make them the same distance.

Would that not give you the exact, proper alignment to each other?

I have attached a picture here to show you. Sorry the quality is not good. For some reason when I saved it in my paint program it made the text blurry!

Aaron

 

[killerrf]

looks like from that pic when the eng loads up the primary will probably move back some due to torque and line up pretty nice. i think offset should be 1.5"

 

[WyoBoy1000]

Depends on what speed/clutch engagement you want it to be in alignment. If you want it for climbing, take a marker and mark up both sides of each clutch then make a pull, without catching air or wheelieing, just nice and smooth then measure where the belt road up to and figure center of belt at this engagement and align for that. Also the motor should have a forward twist of 1/16" according to AC

 

[DonoBBD]

See different belts want different off set and different deflection.

Here is what I like to do for best all around shift. Take the bolt out of the secondary and all the off set shims. Put the secondary and belt on then tighten up the deflection to where the track just wants to creep at idle with the rear of the sled in the air.

Now hit the flipper and let the clutch do her shift up and down a few times then let it free wheel a bit then grab the brake. Measure from a fixed spot on the sled to the fixed sheave. Do this a few times to see if your getting the same number over and over. The big twins like to shake the crap out of secondary at idle so an average of the measurements is needed.

OK so now you have this measurement you want to lock down the secondary at this measurement and adjust your deflection to where you had it in the test.

Now you will have the best all around off set for that given belt compound and length. Do this a few times in the season as the belt wears and you will run that belt for ever. Softer belts give you a rubber band effect by thinning under load and stretching. These need more offset then most or you will loose contact when they thin and the belt will want to roll over in the clutches.

Make sense? This is what works for me. This is how it was found that the back side of the turbo 1000 clutch needed to be milled off to get more off set. Cat just moved the motor with new motor mounts.

Don.

 

[WyoBoy1000]

See different belts want different off set and different deflection.

Here is what I like to do for best all around shift. Take the bolt out of the secondary and all the off set shims. Put the secondary and belt on then tighten up the deflection to where the track just wants to creep at idle with the rear of the sled in the air.

Now hit the flipper and let the clutch do her shift up and down a few times then let it free wheel a bit then grab the brake. Measure from a fixed spot on the sled to the fixed sheave. Do this a few times to see if your getting the same number over and over. The big twins like to shake the crap out of secondary at idle so an average of the measurements is needed.

OK so now you have this measurement you want to lock down the secondary at this measurement and adjust your deflection to where you had it in the test.

Now you will have the best all around off set for that given belt compound and length. Do this a few times in the season as the belt wears and you will run that belt for ever. Softer belts give you a rubber band effect by thinning under load and stretching. These need more offset then most or you will loose contact when they thin and the belt will want to roll over in the clutches.

Make sense? This is what works for me. This is how it was found that the back side of the turbo 1000 clutch needed to be milled off to get more off set. Cat just moved the motor with new motor mounts.

Don.

you make it sound like if you take the shims out from behind the secondary it will float and very which if the bolt is in it, it wont move. Or are you saying to lock the belt engaged down in the secondary and then measure.

 

[Coxy]

Dono, i've used that method on my m7, with aftermarket deflection adjuster. Whats our option for the factory cap/shims on say the 09 M's. You need the bolt locked down to keep deflection in check. Which is probably what confuses people when trying to picture it. I think i have my old stock plastic deflection adjuster from my m7, maybe ill just use that for this setup, then try to duplicate the deflection with shims?

 

[Coxy]

you make it sound like if you take the shims out from behind the secondary it will float and very which if the bolt is in it, it wont move. Or are you saying to lock the belt engaged down in the secondary and then measure.

You will need to have a deflection adjuster that holds steady, without the hold down bolt. You pull your shims from behind the secondary, put the belt on and set a nice tight deflection, as perfect deflection is very important on these things. So now you have the secondary sitting on the DD splines, you can move it in and out, and even pull it right off the input shaft if you wanted to. Now you fire it up, and run it through a couple shifts, nothing crazy tho, and measure from a common point on the clutch, to the chassis. Do this a few times for an average. Now, you just shim behind the clutch, till you are at this measurement. Some people have found that the clutch could even go in more, if this is the case, you dont need to shim, and possibly machine the secondary a bit to move it in if desired. Hope that helps clear it up.

 

[AaronBND]

Makes sense to me. I think that would be a good experiment. Be interesting to do it both ways and see if they tell you the same thing?

Aaron

 

[1badm1]

Align it so the belt just kisses the stationary sheave on the primary, then pull a .060 shim from behind the secondary. This is how I have always done it and never had belt issues on my 1000.

 

[WyoBoy1000]

You will need to have a deflection adjuster that holds steady, without the hold down bolt. You pull your shims from behind the secondary, put the belt on and set a nice tight deflection, as perfect deflection is very important on these things. So now you have the secondary sitting on the DD splines, you can move it in and out, and even pull it right off the input shaft if you wanted to. Now you fire it up, and run it through a couple shifts, nothing crazy tho, and measure from a common point on the clutch, to the chassis. Do this a few times for an average. Now, you just shim behind the clutch, till you are at this measurement. Some people have found that the clutch could even go in more, if this is the case, you dont need to shim, and possibly machine the secondary a bit to move it in if desired. Hope that helps clear it up.

Kinda what i figured just wanted to make sure. But under load my motor moves a lot more I think I would set my secondary in just a hair more to make up for it.

 

[mrquick68]

Hey Dono - you know that the track will creep if your alignment is off, right? i also found that the track stand method doesn't work very well as the clutch likes to look into position on the splines as soon as you put the pressure of shifting to it...

 

[WyoBoy1000]

Hey Dono - you know that the track will creep if your alignment is off, right? i also found that the track stand method doesn't work very well as the clutch likes to look into position on the splines as soon as you put the pressure of shifting to it...

Hows the xp treating you.
Could you state what you found to be the best setup after all your tuning.
I ride with some xps now and they are pretty sweet with a head pipe and clutching but still wont pull like my 1000. in fact I was pulling 7000 rpm and still going where they where and a tiny bit more, threw on a 046 and started getting somewhere, but the bottom end clutching on those xp's kick a$$

 

[AaronBND]

Hows the xp treating you.
Could you state what you found to be the best setup after all your tuning.

Chris, I want to know how you like it compared to the 1000. Glad you made the change?

Aaron