Wood buring stove questions

[yammerhammer]

I am adding a wood burning stove in my garage and have a few questions for u builders. The stove is 24" square-1/4" thick-4" flew(sp) with a barrel kit for the door.

1) About how far should I be from drywall/OSB with no brick or tile?
2) What type of stove pipe to go through the roof? It's 4" on the stove.(I have 4" double wall now from a LP forced air.)
3) Should I use a damper?

 

[HeadLever]

I am adding a wood burning stove in my garage and have a few questions for u builders. The stove is 24" square-1/4" thick-4" flew(sp) with a barrel kit for the door.

1) About how far should I be from drywall/OSB with no brick or tile?
2) What type of stove pipe to go through the roof? It's 4" on the stove.(I have 4" double wall now from a LP forced air.)
3) Should I use a damper?

Codes can vary over different municipalities. For general information, here is a good website I found.

http://www.cdc.gov/nasd/docs/d000101-d000200/d000132/d000132.html

 

[coyoteman]

my stove sits 2' away from the wall, i put up 2 sheets of galvanized tin to reflect the heat from the wall, front of the tin gets very hot, but not the back. the double wall furnace pipe will not work to go through the roof, i don't think it is insulated enough. a damper is a must, or all your heat will just go out the stack.

 

[V-Man]

My stove had all the specs on how far it had to be from combustible materials. If you didn't buy it new, call the manufacturer and see if they have documentation for it.

The size, length, etc. of stove pipe is also going to vary per stove. It won't burn well if you don't do it right. One again, find the documentation for the stove.

You definately want a damper. My stove would burn through wood very inefficiently and run way too hot without closing the damper and controlling air flow.

 

[yammerhammer]

Thanks for the info guy's.

I'm the manufacturer. lol I built this years ago for my hunting tent. Efficiency
isn't that big of a concern since I'm just using it to take the chill off in the garage plus I have an infinite number of old pallets that I'm burning. I may have it going 20hrs a month at most.

I found some info that says a 5" double pipe should have at least 2" clearance
from any combustible material. Not the stove but the pipe. Thats with 1000* pipe temp.

 

[IWantATurbo]

stove pipe is spendy!!!!! i have a barrel stove in my shop. but did not have the coin for the piping. so i just went to the truck stop and got 6in muffler pipe. i have pics of the first 3 feet glowing red. and it keeps the snow off the roof very well. this a pull barn with no wood near it. and a metal roof though.

 

[hilinerider]

i have a pot belly stove in my shop at home and i put a magic heat in the pipe above the stove and run it out the wall and then up, just used single wall stove pipe and cut the osb about a foot away from the pipe going through the tin, the magic heat pull out enough heat from the smokle that the pipe goin through the wall hardly gets hot, i also put a couple chunks of tin on the wall behind the stove and have the stove 2 ft from the wall,
works for me

 

[rp7x]

stove pipe

throw that 4" away it is aluminum inside you need class ( a ) for a wood stove change your flue to 6 " and will work much better the single wall pipe that runs from stove to ceiling needs to 3 xdia. of pipe= 18" from wall

 

[Disco Dan Richter]

You WILL need insulated pipe going through your roof! 2" from any burnables(wood), shhet rock will work as a firestop backer, but keep your stove at least 20" away.
If it is a homemade, I would definitely put in a damper.

Keep in mind what you have in the garage, nothing better than being on the safe side. Most wood stove fires, if not all, are set because of faulty, or improper installation. Your insurance co. can deny a claim if it is not done right, even if you have coverage at time of install and even after.

Be careful.

 

[TIM]

I bought a couple of sheets of durorock and put on the wall behind my wood stove in the shop. Pretty safe and cheap insurance.