Won't Rev -- Throttle safety switch?

[Rob.G]

I fired up my sled today for various reasons; I have stuff to do to it and wanted to move it back in the trailer to reach another sled, among other things. Anyway.. late last season I installed a Munster Finger Throttle on it. Then I missed the last ride of the season due to illness. Turns out that was a good thing, because when I give it throttle to make it go, it just sounds like it's bouncing off the rev limiter (at 3000 rpm or so) and never gets enough RPM to engage the belt.

When I installed the new throttle, I cut the wire off of the throttle safety switch on the old throttle and soldered the ends together. I thought this was the fix for that. I then tried cutting the wires so they were open, and that didn't do it either.

What do I need to do to fix this?? Good thing I didn't go last year because I would have never been able to load the sled into my truck for the drive. I remember testing it last year but I guess I didn't rev it enough to see if it actually moved. Hmm.

 

[PSI 800]

The finger throttle should have come with a TSS bypass switch. That is your problem, you need that plug as it has a resister in it to fool the ecu

 

[PSI 800]

I actually bought a couple of spare TSS bypass plugs as TSS's do screw up

 

[Rob.G]

Where do I get these plugs? I don't remember it coming with one. In any case, I'm putting the old throttle back on because the sled is for sale. I guess I'll reconnect the TSS. Alternately, anybody know what the resistor value is? It's times like this I miss Radio Shack.

Edit: I guess I could check the value by putting my meter on the actual TSS....

Second Edit: I did. With the switch out (as in throttle open) it reads 2140 ohms. With it IN (throttle closed) the meter sayd 6.2kohm (which sounds like 6200 ohms to me, why couldn't it just say that?)

 

[PSI 800]

The bypass plug goes where your original throttle block was plugged into under your hood on the clutch side. Munster sells the TSS bypass plug seperately. I have bought 3 munster throttles and all came with the TSS bypass plug

 

[Rob.G]

Thanks. I'll look around and see if I can find mine. I put everything back together, re-soldered the TSS on, and now the sled won't run unless I hold the little button down. Grr. What a pain in the butt.

Edit: Found it! Now as soon as I'm done working on this old King Cat, I can reposition the Khaos so I can get to the clutch side.

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

Thanks. I'll look around and see if I can find mine. I put everything back together, re-soldered the TSS on, and now the sled won't run unless I hold the little button down. Grr. What a pain in the butt.

Edit: Found it! Now as soon as I'm done working on this old King Cat, I can reposition the Khaos so I can get to the clutch side.

You can't just solder them directly together. Need a 10k ohm resister in there to simulate the switch. That's all the tss bypass plugs are is a 10k resistor in a plug

 

[Rob.G]

If I end up going the resistor route, do I need 1/4 or 1/2 watt (or something else)?

 

[Rob.G]

This is my view under the hood, clutch side on the right. I see a blue and a white connector under there. Is one of those the TSS switch? Those are the only ones I see.

 

[PSI 800]

It should be in a cluster of plugs that are all wrapped together in a fabric looking bag that is closed with velcro, easest way to find is to follow the wires coming out of the throttle block

 

[Rob.G]

Augh, what a pain. The issue is the airbox and other stuff up on top that makes it impossible to trace the wires. I was trying to not disassemble the sled to do this. Another reason I really hate this sled.

I orderd some 10k ohm resistors; at this point I'm just going to solder one of those in.

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

I’m sorry you’re having problems with your sled.

Seems like you’re blaming the sled when the problems are self inflicted though……..

 

[Rob.G]

And that remark is necessary why? How is it in any way constructive?

The design of this thing is a joke. You can't get to anything. The wiring goes down into the bulkhead and is completely obscured by more crap that has to come off in a puzzle-like fashion to get to it.

I just want it done so I can sell it and be rid of it. With all of the recalls on EVERYTHING they make, I'm 100% done with Polaris.

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

Pop the fasteners loose on the front of tank console, unplug the fuel pump lines and wiring, pull the 2 nuts and a bolt holding the fuel tank in place and slide it back.

Should be easier to access the wiring harness.

The resistor in the throttle safety switch has been the same since 07 /08.

Cut the tss open and remove the plunger, brass ball and spring.

Tape everything back up, tuck under the hood and use a tether.

(You don’t need to order a resistor since you already have one in the TSS)