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Wiseco/PMS Piston Drilling

I got the idea from turbo wildman Gus Bohne. The wiseco instruction manual shows how to drill the holes if your engine has a center exhaust bridge-I just did the same thing except for the auxillary exhaust ports. Gus does this to his Wisecos and has a rev at 36lbs for short bursts-so I think it may work! The holes hold oil and cool/lubricate this high load area.

My rings were initially about .018" and .004 skirt clearance. I set the rings to .022" and skirts to .005".
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Interesting. I am going to the wiseco piston on a non turbo. I personally think if you have proper fit and use good oil it will be a non issue.


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I personally think if you have proper fit and use good oil it will be a non issue.

The issue is you are taking a motor much beyond its design limits, and the initially high load areas are now dangerously loaded to the point of material/part failure and need some love.

i think its a pretty slick idea. keep us up to date on how she holds together.
 
The issue is you are taking a motor much beyond its design limits, and the initially high load areas are now dangerously loaded to the point of material/part failure and need some love.

i think its a pretty slick idea. keep us up to date on how she holds together.

And that's why I'm not sure drilling into this high load area is a good idea.

Just my 2 cents. I think the failure is from the piston slop and the skirt bouncing off the wall. Remove the slop and it is not an issue.

I hope this works.


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And that's why I'm not sure drilling into this high load area is a good idea.

Just my 2 cents. I think the failure is from the piston slop and the skirt bouncing off the wall. Remove the slop and it is not an issue.

I hope this works.


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If the Doo 800 Wisecos can hold together at 42lbs (on the dyno) with these holes, I think my measly 13-14lbs should be nothing.

Here is Wiseco's installation instructions with their recommended drilling procedure for exhaust bridges.

http://www.wiseco.com/PDFs/Manuals/MSeries.pdf

I do agree that the Dragon catastrophic failures are not from this area. I am just trying to prevent problems with the heat of a turbo and forged pistons.
 
I read the instructions.

I hear you on the heat. I'd make sure you let the sled warm up good and get a good fuel map.


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My rings were initially about .018" and .004 skirt clearance. I set the rings to .022" and skirts to .005".
Eli,
I am getting ready to put in my wiescos also. How did you set your clearance from .004 to .005? What did you use to measure it? Thanks
 
its nothing new,, almost every oem has them in their RACE applications .

Every single bridged port exh engine has them.
In a bridged port cyl, the bridge itself is thin and exposed to the center of flow from the cylinder. this is an extremely hot place on both blowdown and return wave periods. the bridge grows with heat end expands INTO the bore, these small lube holes allow a very slight exposure to lubrication and thus aid in reducing the amount of scuffing and wear on the skirt.

In any bridged cyl like the old cat 600 triples , you find in very short order that the rings are flat spotted directly on the bridge contact point. Leakdown goes up fast and below peak operating rpm power levels struggle.

In the mx world prior to the 4 stroke ruining racing,, ( my pov ) every bike had them in both bridged AND triple e port configurations, HEAT was a big issue in those days,, seizing on the subports was common place this ended that weakness.

Now, I dont drill all of them ,, only the units I see issue with .

thin or ported subports or widened main port ( ex ) will make this worse . The thinner that material is both in its chordal width and its actual depth back down the tunnel the more it will expand and crack at the cylinder opening. Ever see a crack between the exh ports ?? most cyls are split at the cores in this exact location . Casting boxs need to be removable and casting a triple exh port is complex..thats where the seem ends up from top to bottom section of core box.

drilling the lube / colling holes can't hurt anything at all, will they be a benefit ?? only the end user can answer that..

high boost even for short 4 second bursts creates big reversion heat,, we need it to make power one of the 2 edges of our boosted sword..lol

long runs at more reasonable boost and flow rates makes prolonged heat,, another exposure to that damn sword again..

Gus

.005 max clearance..start coolant temp 70 degrees, end of run coolant temp 130 ish,, wiseco skirt coating still like brand new,, both sides.
 
this mod has been around a long time. In the 20th century, I drilled holes in my '90 Indy 500 pistons for the intake port bridge to take care of that scuffing. :face-icon-small-coo
 
2008 Dragon piston had holes

FYI, the OEM piston in the 08 Dragon had these holes - one per side. they were gone in 2009 and never came back.
 
FYI, the OEM piston in the 08 Dragon had these holes - one per side. they were gone in 2009 and never came back.

Any idea why they were on the 2008s and not on the 09/10s? Did they help the 08 pistons with reduced scuffing in the exhaust port area?
 
Any idea why they were on the 2008s and not on the 09/10s? Did they help the 08 pistons with reduced scuffing in the exhaust port area?

Good question. The 2008's had big problems, the 2011s do not. 08 had the hole, 11 does not. 09/10 didn't either. That's about all I know.
 
My original 08 motor lasted about 9 times longer than my updated (09) motor did and I think that has been most people's experience. The single ring pistons must have been made better or something, not really sure.

All I know is that comparing the original 08 motor, the update kit motor, and now the "fixed" motor with pcv that it runs best now with the tall weisco's and shim followed by the original motor with single ringers and last place in every catagory, the updated 08 motor.
 
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