Wiring connector
- Thread starter wrang
- Start date
Thank you!
I post this with complete respect for cwbyup_232 and I'm only trying to be helpful. I've been looking into the electrical system on our DC-CFI-2 RMK's and have some decent insight into the system the I hope others will find helpful.
Actually the amp mate n lock connectors are ONLY for the Power INPUT for the ECU and DigitalWrench console.
The connector labled "DC PWR" is a Power input for the diagnostics.
That connection is un-fused and could wreak havoc with the ECU function or durability.
Best to tap into the FUSED connection in the hood harness and do not run anything off of it that will draw more than it is fused for at 2 amps...REGARDLESS of what others may be saying.
The red/white wire powers draws from the same red wire, through the chassis relay, that powers up all the vital functions on the sled like ECU, Fuel Pump, sensors, MFD etc.
If something goes wrong or shorts there... then you could have an expensive problem on your hands... easy to do since that is not fused.
IMO... DO NOT use the "DC PWR" connector for to power up ANY device... Any aftermarket items that run off of this connection are putting your sled at risk and should be changed to the fused circuit. In some cases, the aftermarket mfgs of dc powered items may be making assumptions that could put your sled at risk.
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Actually the amp mate n lock connectors are ONLY for the Power INPUT for the ECU and DigitalWrench console.
The connector labled "DC PWR" is a Power input for the diagnostics.
That connection is un-fused and could wreak havoc with the ECU function or durability.
Best to tap into the FUSED connection in the hood harness and do not run anything off of it that will draw more than it is fused for at 2 amps...REGARDLESS of what others may be saying.
The red/white wire powers draws from the same red wire, through the chassis relay, that powers up all the vital functions on the sled like ECU, Fuel Pump, sensors, MFD etc.
If something goes wrong or shorts there... then you could have an expensive problem on your hands... easy to do since that is not fused.
IMO... DO NOT use the "DC PWR" connector for to power up ANY device... Any aftermarket items that run off of this connection are putting your sled at risk and should be changed to the fused circuit. In some cases, the aftermarket mfgs of dc powered items may be making assumptions that could put your sled at risk.
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What you want was posted up in this thread by another reader to plug into the connection in the hood harness.
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=234327
This photo shows the 75-1598 connector spliced on the end of HIS device cable.. not spliced into the factory harness.
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=234327
This photo shows the 75-1598 connector spliced on the end of HIS device cable.. not spliced into the factory harness.
Last edited:
W
wrang
New member
I post this with complete respect for cwbyup_232 and I'm only trying to be helpful. I've been looking into the electrical system on our DC-CFI-2 RMK's and have some decent insight into the system the I hope others will find helpful.
Actually the amp mate n lock connectors are ONLY for the Power INPUT for the ECU and DigitalWrench console.
The connector labled "DC PWR" is a Power input for the diagnostics.
That connection is un-fused and could wreak havoc with the ECU function or durability.
Best to tap into the FUSED connection in the hood harness and do not run anything off of it that will draw more than it is fused for at 2 amps...REGARDLESS of what others may be saying.
The red/white wire powers draws from the same red wire, through the chassis relay, that powers up all the vital functions on the sled like ECU, Fuel Pump, sensors, MFD etc.
If something goes wrong or shorts there... then you could have an expensive problem on your hands... easy to do since that is not fused.
IMO... DO NOT use the "DC PWR" connector for to power up ANY device... Any aftermarket items that run off of this connection are putting your sled at risk and should be changed to the fused circuit. In some cases, the aftermarket mfgs of dc powered items may be making assumptions that could put your sled at risk.
.
That's good info. Thank you
If you need to draw more than the 2 amps that the hood connection can SAFELY supply... then see this thread and read it from top to bottom.
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=323154
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http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=323154
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I have ES on my 11 Pro with a Phantom (Shorai) battery. I have taken power from the battery, to an on/off push button switch on the console and then into the red/white wire so I can power up the MFD & tail light without the sled running and also to "warm" up the battery before cold starts (as per battery mfg's instructions). Do you think I should fuse this wire and what amperage?
I have also installed a 12v Power Point next to the MFD powered from the under hood ACC plug.
I have also installed a 12v Power Point next to the MFD powered from the under hood ACC plug.
A couple of questions...
Where are you tapping into the red/white wire?
What do you run off of your power point?
Did you change the fuse for the power point to anything other than a 2amp fuse?
A 2 amp fuse would give you plenty of power for the mfd and taillight. Install it at the point it taps off the battery.
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Where are you tapping into the red/white wire?
What do you run off of your power point?
Did you change the fuse for the power point to anything other than a 2amp fuse?
A 2 amp fuse would give you plenty of power for the mfd and taillight. Install it at the point it taps off the battery.
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There is a large connector that goes down the right side rear overstructure that goes to the electric start. The 8 wire connector has 8 wires in it on the "sled chassis" side but only has 4 wires going down to the ES. One of the unused wires is the red/white wire and comes directly from the chassis power relay (according to the wiring schematic page 9 of the 2011 manual).
Haven't ran anything off of the power point yet, but probably just a cell phone or a GPS. Will not change the fuse size out on this. But I will install a fuse going to the red/white wire.
Yes... that is a good wire to use... if you can find a pin to put into the connector housing..
If you cant... you can always back feed through the ACC lead for your power point... the red/yellow wire there goes through the fuse back to the red/white circuit.
I'd prefer to keep the sled harness uncut.
If you cant... you can always back feed through the ACC lead for your power point... the red/yellow wire there goes through the fuse back to the red/white circuit.
I'd prefer to keep the sled harness uncut.
I post this with complete respect for cwbyup_232 and I'm only trying to be helpful. I've been looking into the electrical system on our DC-CFI-2 RMK's and have some decent insight into the system the I hope others will find helpful.
Actually the amp mate n lock connectors are ONLY for the Power INPUT for the ECU and DigitalWrench console.
The connector labled "DC PWR" is a Power input for the diagnostics.
That connection is un-fused and could wreak havoc with the ECU function or durability.
Best to tap into the FUSED connection in the hood harness and do not run anything off of it that will draw more than it is fused for at 2 amps...REGARDLESS of what others may be saying.
The red/white wire powers draws from the same red wire, through the chassis relay, that powers up all the vital functions on the sled like ECU, Fuel Pump, sensors, MFD etc.
If something goes wrong or shorts there... then you could have an expensive problem on your hands... easy to do since that is not fused.
IMO... DO NOT use the "DC PWR" connector for to power up ANY device... Any aftermarket items that run off of this connection are putting your sled at risk and should be changed to the fused circuit. In some cases, the aftermarket mfgs of dc powered items may be making assumptions that could put your sled at risk.
.
I completely agree with you on that, I would personally never use that plug to power anything, there are other good alternatives to get power from, I just happened to know what kind of connector they are from building a power up cable
I'll have more info on the 2013's in a bit.
The circuit has remained the same and you still do not want to draw more than 2 amps, through a fuse from the ECU regulator.
The 13's have combined the case for the AC and the DC regulators... but internally, they remain separate.
The same caution applies on the 2013's.
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The circuit has remained the same and you still do not want to draw more than 2 amps, through a fuse from the ECU regulator.
The 13's have combined the case for the AC and the DC regulators... but internally, they remain separate.
The same caution applies on the 2013's.
.
