Why Blue for the break-in?

[theletup]

So I picked up my new sled from my dealer the other day and noticed that the oil tank was full of Polaris Blue Oil. I asked the sales person and she said they all come like that and took me to the service dept to ask them. The service writer said that they break all the sleds in with the first tank of Polaris Blue. In his words: "because the gold is synthetic the motor doesn't break in as well"...

huh? I don't understand. Isn't blue also a synthetic oil? I am not trying to argue or disagree I am just curious as to why the blue would be better for break in and if anyone else has ran into this. Can someone explain it?

Thanks homies!

 

[madmax]

I think the blue polaris oil I buy is semi-synthetic.

 

[4Z]

Blue is dino.
The rings will set better with dino oil. I always break in a new motor/top end with any TCW-3 dino.

 

[sled_guy]

Polaris blue is now semi-synthetic, has been for a couple of years now.

The blue is cheaper, that's why they put it in there for break'in

I just run the blue all the time, don't switch to the gold stuff... its best used for keeping the dust down on your driveway.

sled_guy

 

[Outlaw525s]

I work at a dealer and everly sled that comes in has Polaris Ves Gold Plus in the oil tank already..... NEVER EVER have a seen blue oil in the tank right from factory... we reccomennd DUmping the blue oil into the GAS tank for the first 2-3 rides... then after that you are goood!..But from factory i have never seen BLue oil in the oil tank!

 

[gman086]

I work at a dealer and everly sled that comes in has Polaris Ves Gold Plus in the oil tank already..... NEVER EVER have a seen blue oil in the tank right from factory... we reccomennd DUmping the blue oil into the GAS tank for the first 2-3 rides... then after that you are goood!..But from factory i have never seen BLue oil in the oil tank!

Wrong. It looks like gold but is actually the blue without the blue dye and I've confirmed this with Polaris.

Every sled is coming with Polaris semi-syn because the rings seat faster (they will STILL seat the same with gold, just takes longer). After the first tank then switch to whatever you want, I like Redline or Maxima.

Have FUN!

G MAN

 

[theletup]

right on. That completely answers my question. I just wanted to make sure everything was right. This is the first time I've ever boughten a brand new sled. STOKED FOR WINTER!

 

[OnlyPolaris]

Wrong. It looks like gold but is actually the blue without the blue dye and I've confirmed this with Polaris.

Every sled is coming with Polaris semi-syn because the rings seat faster (they will STILL seat the same with gold, just takes longer). After the first tank then switch to whatever you want, I like Redline or Maxima.

Have FUN!

G MAN

I agree with this statement.

 

[allied1]

Blue

Continue using 12oz of POO Blue in each tank of fuel all year and your 800 will treat you to much better engine life.

 

[akgiauque]

Wrong. It looks like gold but is actually the blue without the blue dye and I've confirmed this with Polaris.

Every sled is coming with Polaris semi-syn because the rings seat faster (they will STILL seat the same with gold, just takes longer). After the first tank then switch to whatever you want, I like Redline or Maxima.

Have FUN!

G MAN

I asked my dealer today and they said the same thing. VES Gold in the res and Blue mixed with the gas in the tank. The ratio was in the book. He said the rings will seat better and the life of the sled will be enhanced, whatever that means. It seems that running it rich a few rides will not hurt anything long term.

 

[Matte Murder]

Related question. Should I break in my new Pro with the resistor plug in the Ethanol position even though I never run Ethanol gas in my sleds? Heard it runs richer that way. Would someone clarify something for me? Do you recommend the blue oil in the tank AFTER break in too? Gonna run some oil in the tank and adjust the oil injector so a little more oil is injected into the engine.

 

[Outlaw525s]

Wrong. It looks like gold but is actually the blue without the blue dye and I've confirmed this with Polaris.

Every sled is coming with Polaris semi-syn because the rings seat faster (they will STILL seat the same with gold, just takes longer). After the first tank then switch to whatever you want, I like Redline or Maxima.

Have FUN!

G MAN

I stand corrected...makes me feal like a newbie! thank you!

 

[gman086]

Related question. Should I break in my new Pro with the resistor plug in the Ethanol position even though I never run Ethanol gas in my sleds? Heard it runs richer that way. Would someone clarify something for me? Do you recommend the blue oil in the tank AFTER break in too? Gonna run some oil in the tank and adjust the oil injector so a little more oil is injected into the engine.

No, the Pro has a low compression head and advanced timing compared to most. They have a chip that retards timing for the first 3 hrs so you break it in right without having to run rich so use the non-ethanol plug. It's never a bad idea to run more oil as long as you're not fouling plugs. I turned my adjuster screw in one full turn from stock (richens it). As for what oil, that's up to you. Blue is certainly good oil and inexpensive compared to full syn but will gum up a lil faster. I like Redline full syn or Maxima semi-syn.

Have FUN!

G MAN

 

[Schmeg]

There has always been much debate about how long the cross hatch that the honing process lasts in a cylinder. The cross hatch is what provides the abraded surface for the rings to seat. Some say it's a matter of minutes. Some say hours. Either way, with modern metallurgy and engine assembly techniques, the crosshatch doesn't last long and doesn't need to. As long as there is sufficient friction available. With 'syn oil, it is very slick which provides a great friction barrier on the cylinder walls. Good for normal operation. Bad for ring seating considering the crosshatch doesn't last long, and that is where the argument stands, how long does the crosshatch last. You can pull a motor down with 8000 miles on it and still see a lot of evidence of crosshatch, but none of it is beneficial to ring seating. It is all irregularities imbedded in the cylinder walls. What you are looking for is the raised portion of the crosshatch to bed the rings, for which supports the argument that the crosshatch is very limited in use for break in purposes. If you use "dino" oil during break in, it will ensure enough friction is provided to seat the rings in during the very limited time the crosshatch is of any value, which explains the theory of limited full throttle input. This technique puts more inward and outward pressure on the rings which will enhance the abrading process, but developed excessive heat on the rings and ring lands. So by limiting full throttle input, you can control the heat, but quicken the process which is not a bad thing at all. Personally I only break in my engines using pure dino oil in the injection tank (semi Syn is fine), and a 100-1 ratio of dino oil in the tank. The only reason for oil in the tank is to save the motor if there is any issues with the oiling system. Sorry for the long post. Jay.,,,,,,,Just sayin. BTW, the only disadvantage to using dino oil in a stock trail motor is excessive carbon buildup on the power valves. So when you switch over to 'syn oil, which 2 tanks is plenty, pull and clean the valves with brown scotchbrite and WD-40. I actually use Citgo Sea and Snow semi-syn on all my sleds with no issues at all and it's cheap,,,if you can find it.

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

There has always been much debate about how long the cross hatch that the honing process lasts in a cylinder. The cross hatch is what provides the abraded surface for the rings to seat. Some say it's a matter of minutes. Some say hours. Either way, with modern metallurgy and engine assembly techniques, the crosshatch doesn't last long and doesn't need to. As long as there is sufficient friction available. With 'syn oil, it is very slick which provides a great friction barrier on the cylinder walls. Good for normal operation. Bad for ring seating considering the crosshatch doesn't last long, and that is where the argument stands, how long does the crosshatch last. You can pull a motor down with 8000 miles on it and still see a lot of evidence of crosshatch, but none of it is beneficial to ring seating. It is all irregularities imbedded in the cylinder walls. What you are looking for is the raised portion of the crosshatch to bed the rings, for which supports the argument that the crosshatch is very limited in use for break in purposes. If you use "dino" oil during break in, it will ensure enough friction is provided to seat the rings in during the very limited time the crosshatch is of any value, which explains the theory of limited full throttle input. This technique puts more inward and outward pressure on the rings which will enhance the abrading process, but developed excessive heat on the rings and ring lands. So by limiting full throttle input, you can control the heat, but quicken the process which is not a bad thing at all. Personally I only break in my engines using pure dino oil in the injection tank (semi Syn is fine), and a 100-1 ratio of dino oil in the tank. The only reason for oil in the tank is to save the motor if there is any issues with the oiling system. Sorry for the long post. Jay.,,,,,,,Just sayin. BTW, the only disadvantage to using dino oil in a stock trail motor is excessive carbon buildup on the power valves. So when you switch over to 'syn oil, which 2 tanks is plenty, pull and clean the valves with brown scotchbrite and WD-40. I actually use Citgo Sea and Snow semi-syn on all my sleds with no issues at all and it's cheap,,,if you can find it.

great answer...and full of facts...now I will add a zinger here..back when we raced..we would run a motor up for a few hrs(on the dyno) do our thing and when done..we would pull the motor down and throw fresh rings in on old bores..no other changes....motor would pick up hp....every time..this is all related to hone finish and how too rough of a finish eats power..new rings on slightly used bores held better compression thru out the motors life cycle...

 

[Matte Murder]

AK what time period was it that you raced. Any difference to how they are making and finishing cylinders now and when you were racing? What were you racing?

 

[Schmeg]

Thats a technique I'm not familiar with. Kinda goes against the purpose of putting pressure on the rings to break them in. Using a dyne no doubt is a great way to do it. Controlled environment. Todays modern metallurgy along with superior engine assembly techniques, coupled with the fact most engines utilize liquid cooling which allows even temperature control allows for quick break-in. Even with my 4 stroke Apex's, they went full WOT right off the trailer for short bursts, and never had issues with either sled. After a few hours, full syn oil went in.