Who's Using a Dobeck Gen4?

[teal_210]

I'm curious who all is running one of these and what your settings are.

I haven't had much time to get mine dialed in yet, I'd appreciate it if anyone could provide their settings to get a somewhat of a baseline established! I realize that settings will vary between bikes, just want to see what everyone has settled on.

1. Bike model/year?
2. If KXF or RMZ, which coupler are you running?
3. Performance mods, pipe, etc.?

Dobeck Settings:

Green:
Yellow:
Red:
Green-Blue:
Yellow-Blue:
Red-Blue:

Any additional input is welcomed as well - what you've tried and liked or not liked.

 

[PalousePoo]

I think Gman ran one last year on his KX. He maybe in Canada today breaking in his new SX-F.

 

[Rush44]

Green mode is based on the days temperature and the current conditions outside. A colder day will force the temp sensor to dump more fuel thereby richening the base signal sent from the stock ECU. You will have to compensate by leaning out the base trim. Remember that green mode is just a % trim from stock ECU so if it gets colder/warmer you will want to slightly adjust this setting. My favorite spot on the 11 KX450F was 12.2 for Green.

Yellow mode is nearly un-needed since you usually transition right into Red mode and bypass Yellow. Yellow is more for people doing runs down the highway and not get wrist-happy. I still set this mode at 12.5.

Red mode is the mode that you should be in when you are boondocking around. 12.8 was the cleanest feel and what I set mine at. It should achieve 12.8 quickly and hover right around it reliably. If it doesn't there is something wrong with the O2 sensor or possibly the lower unit (fuel control module, for example).

Your Green/Blue, Yellow/Blue, and Red/Blue are the thresholds between modes and shouldn't be changed much at all. Nick and I optimized the programming to transition through Yellow as fast as possible and hit Red the vast majority of the time. Pretty much any decent engine load should result in a Red mode.

One setting I did change was the Blue. Blue is the accel pump, so leaning reduces the amount of fuel given between mode changes and richening increases the fuel delivery between mode changes. I richen my accel pump by 2 bumps just to make sure there is always enough fuel when I do quick throttle twists and I don't have a chance of leaning out the fuel delivery. Be careful with this setting! Making drastic changes can result in horrible performance so make your changes by single clicks and test it before you get comfortable.

 

[teal_210]

Green mode is based on the days temperature and the current conditions outside. A colder day will force the temp sensor to dump more fuel thereby richening the base signal sent from the stock ECU. You will have to compensate by leaning out the base trim. Remember that green mode is just a % trim from stock ECU so if it gets colder/warmer you will want to slightly adjust this setting. My favorite spot on the 11 KX450F was 12.2 for Green.

Yellow mode is nearly un-needed since you usually transition right into Red mode and bypass Yellow. Yellow is more for people doing runs down the highway and not get wrist-happy. I still set this mode at 12.5.

Red mode is the mode that you should be in when you are boondocking around. 12.8 was the cleanest feel and what I set mine at. It should achieve 12.8 quickly and hover right around it reliably. If it doesn't there is something wrong with the O2 sensor or possibly the lower unit (fuel control module, for example).

Your Green/Blue, Yellow/Blue, and Red/Blue are the thresholds between modes and shouldn't be changed much at all. Nick and I optimized the programming to transition through Yellow as fast as possible and hit Red the vast majority of the time. Pretty much any decent engine load should result in a Red mode.

One setting I did change was the Blue. Blue is the accel pump, so leaning reduces the amount of fuel given between mode changes and richening increases the fuel delivery between mode changes. I richen my accel pump by 2 bumps just to make sure there is always enough fuel when I do quick throttle twists and I don't have a chance of leaning out the fuel delivery. Be careful with this setting! Making drastic changes can result in horrible performance so make your changes by single clicks and test it before you get comfortable.

Thanks for the reply.

The yellow mode is a % trim also, same as the green.
Also, I think your descriptions are slightly off, unless something has changed, mine only has 6 settings where as you listed 7.

yellow/blue is the transition from green to yellow
red/blue is the transition from yellow to red
green/blue is the accelerator pump

You don't happen to remember your red/blue setting do you? I have a friend who rode last weekend, he said his bike was in the yellow mode a lot of the time...my understanding is that with a track on the bike it should bypass the yellow almost immediately and go to red. I wondering if he needs to lower the red/blue setting to get through the yellow mode faster. He said he was running an AFR of around 10 in the yellow mode.

 

[Rush44]

So, just got off the phone with Dobeck and you are correct, there was a final code change after Nick and I had created my "final" code. But the reason for this change was to basically hard code in the settings that we had determined run best and I had already modified my controller to do.

Currently, as the newest code sits, Yellow mode is ALSO a % trim and is no longer closed loop like it used to be (and like red currently is). The reason for this is you should transition from Green to Red without seeing Yellow... Yellow is pointless for the snowbike application. Dobeck has played with creating a pure closed loop environment but it creates issues at idle, hence the Green (idle to almost no engine load).

Also, another change from my original code is how the accel pump is modified. Green/Blue IS the accel pump, Yellow/Blue is Yellow transition, Red/Blue is Red transition. In order to mimic the settings I had you would richen Green/Blue to fatten the accel pump (very small adjustment, 2 ticks). Anytime the Blue light comes on during operation means the controller is modifying the accel pump.

With regards to your friend who is stuck in Yellow mode. 10 in yellow mode is HORRIBLY rich as I'm sure you know. But, aside from that, he shouldn't really ever see Yellow mode for more than maybe a second.... for sure not when off trail. Maybe if he held the throttle juuuuuuuuust right he could get that motor to be in the perfect load balance to keep it there but that is pretty hard to do. Your friend needs to get in his Yellow/Blue mode and move that needle to the highest setting it will take (Lean as possible) and then get into his Red/Blue and move that into the lowest (Rich as possible) setting it will take. This will ensure that he moves through Yellow almost instantly. I would set the Yellow mode around 12 just to be safe but you don't want to be there. Closed loop when riding is the key!

 

[teal_210]

With regards to your friend who is stuck in Yellow mode. 10 in yellow mode is HORRIBLY rich as I'm sure you know. But, aside from that, he shouldn't really ever see Yellow mode for more than maybe a second.... for sure not when off trail. Maybe if he held the throttle juuuuuuuuust right he could get that motor to be in the perfect load balance to keep it there but that is pretty hard to do. Your friend needs to get in his Yellow/Blue mode and move that needle to the highest setting it will take (Lean as possible) and then get into his Red/Blue and move that into the lowest (Rich as possible) setting it will take. This will ensure that he moves through Yellow almost instantly. I would set the Yellow mode around 12 just to be safe but you don't want to be there. Closed loop when riding is the key!

Thanks, That pretty much confirms what I was thinking as well.

Still interested in what other people have learned! I think I'm getting a pretty good grasp on how this works, but it's always good to hear everyone's input.

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

If you have any questions feel free to give me a call. but looks like rush nailed most of it on the head for me already! thanks!

I do have a real day job, so 5 in the evenings and later works great. I can go through everything that we did last year to arrive at this new setup. and What I have found to work best overall running. I will be out soon working on some new code on my own, just trying to refine what i started last winter that extra percentage.

I do know a few guys who ran red @ 12.2 last year which they said pulled hardest, so I will be working on using yellow as a practical cruise with the 12.2 being a true WOT situation this way we can get peak power and not waste fuel to bad.

 

[the gman]

Are you guys running any dielectric grease in your connections?? I had trouble with my controller and dobeck informed me I had too much in the connections. I thought more was better. Also on the new program, if you want to have a READ ONLY gauge to see where your stock program was running, I was told to put your green and yellow mode needle straight up and put your yellow-red full rich and your gauge would just become a afr gauge. Will let you know if this works when I get my unit back

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

with new code to make it a AFR gauge settings as follows

green 13
yellow 13
red doesnt matter
green/blue 13
yellow blue doesnt matter
red/blue maxed out to the lean side ~16

As for the dialectric grease. ALL of the connections are weather proof to start. the grease can "float" the pins inside of one another causing connection failure. Dont put anything in your connections.

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

Also, for guys with the "chips" like the KX's have (im not sure which models have them) running the "hottest" one seems to work the best. they do very little for fuel compared to what you can do with the controller, the timing change is the biggest gain and with the track kit all the extra snort you can get is welcome!!!

 

[Rush44]

Also, for guys with the "chips" like the KX's have (im not sure which models have them) running the "hottest" one seems to work the best. they do very little for fuel compared to what you can do with the controller, the timing change is the biggest gain and with the track kit all the extra snort you can get is welcome!!!

For the chipped KX450F's the WHITE chip is the one you want (it's the Marshawn Lynch of the chips... BEAST MODE). It advances timing and reduces fuel delivery (8% i believe).

 

[snow4shover]

DO NOT USE DIELECTRIC GREASE
Dielectric grease doesn't conduct electricity. If a coating gets on the pins it will cause a connection issue. All connections are Weather Pak connectors and do not need any Grease to moisture out.

 

[the gman]

I am chasing a intermitant problem with my sx fi. Bike ran great most the day until coming out. Then would die after a wide open throttle run. Would restart and run 20-30 yards, then die again. Thank god I had the shoria battery as it took over a hour to go the last mile and a half. Made it out under its own power but still chasing it. The small fuel filter is fine just the fuel pump quits intermitently. Of course I have dielectric grease in all my connections so I am cleaning all of them and try again. Anyone else have problems with there fuel injection??? Also FOR SALE...half tube of dielectric grease....

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

get the air gun out and blow all the connections out good. could be giving you all sorts of troubles.

dont make me come over to ID and steal all your grease!! nothing but trouble is what that stuff is!! lol

 

[the gman]

Cleaned out all the connections and seems to run now. Hope to get out Thursday to find out for sure. Thought I was helping with the grease but I guess not. Hope I get my controller back in time....

 

[mtn-doo]

Gary, great to visit with you in Spokane. Great day. Good luck with that programmer/controller!

 

[Grape Taxi]

DOBECK BEST SETTINGS

Looking for some guidance setting up Dobeck gen4.
What numbers seemed to be working
Testing numbers would useful thx Glen
2014 501 berg average elevation 12 to 1600m