Looking for feedback, any pros or cons.
Who's running Boondocker system on Nytro
- Thread starter nytrofever
- Start date
I installed a BD turbo 2 years ago, and since the Air Force had me stationed in Hawaii I've probably only ran about 7 tanks of fuel through it while I was on leave the last few winters. That being said, I'll do a rundown of my impressions.
The kit I ordered came with a koso A/F gauge, older style trail tank (more on this later) the ADA system, BD box, 2860RS turbo, intercooler, BOV, extra injectors, and all the hardware to install it.
The install wasn't HARD, but it definitely required some mechanic skills. Thankfully while I was in hawaii my dad took care of most of the install for me. In addition to the mostly complete directions, a call to boondocker with any questions was always answered by very helpful folks on the other end.
In addition to the turbo I added the KOSO A/F gauge, supertips in my primary, a shockwave helix in the secondary and an Arctic Cat red/white spring in the secondary as well. This gave me as much adjustability as I could handle.
Once it was installed we noticed a few fit/finish issues. The cage on the air intake is just a little too big, and hits the side panel. We had to trim back the rubber intake hose, which then made it more difficult to get the filter cage installed. The other option would be to use a longer hose and cut a hole in the side panel. Issue #2 isn't really boondockers fault. The first generation trail tank that came with the ki was molded with a depression in the bottom so all of the turbo components will clear. The tank is a tight fit when mounting it, and the upper shroud does not bolt up cleanly. It takes a good deal of pushing and pulling to get the holes lined up. Hopefully BD has moved on to the 2nd gen trail tank by now.
Issues: The very first ride out, the coolant return line on the turbo split just after the super cool custom fitting that boondocker puts on. I searched all over town, and was in and out of plumbing stores and shops that specialize in fittings. I actually never found a fitting that fit correctly in the turbo, and just rode with one that was a close fit with some plumbers tape. It still had a slight leak, about a cup of coolant over a ride. It wasn't ideal, but it got me on the snow. I called BD and talked with them about it, and the first time I was offered a new hose for around $75.00. I declined, and stuck with my homebrew fix while I was home. Then last year, I called again and they sent me a hose with a new fitting setup for $35.00. So far it has held up great. The coolant leak caused the heat tape to unstick from the trail tank, so that had to be glued back on with some high temp epoxy.
The only other issue I've had with it running was my fault. I should have changed the plugs when we first installed the turbo, but it wasn't a concern at the time. I had over 1k miles on it when we did the install, and after 3 or 4 rides I was getting detonation - it turned out to be the plugs. Swapped them out and it runs great now! From now on its getting new plugs/new A/F sensor each fall just to be on the safe side.
On to the good stuff...the ADA system. I can adjust boost from 10-15lbs with the push of a button. It will go higher, but 15lbs is more than enough for me. You can set it up to increase boost with altitude to keep your HP consistent (yes, the ADA senses altitude). There is also a "push to pass" button that will increase boost to a pre-set number for some extra ummph when you need it. Once boost starts to build, it is displayed on the ADA box. For this reason I mounted mine on the top of my bars. I will say that the ADA box uses % to increase boost, so when I want to run 10lbs I leave it on 00, and when I want 15lbs of boost I program 35 (%). This took a little testing to figure out, but once you have that down it takes all of 5 seconds to go from 10lbs to 15lbs.
The BD box comes preset with numbers, and honestly I think the sled runs the best with the numbers from BD. I just leave it alone and ride. Boost starts kicking in around 5k RPM, and that is when the box begins adding fuel through the extra injectors. The only thing I really use the box for is to check my max boost to make sure I'm not overboosting or to double check where I've got it set. So far the settings in the box keep my A/F readings spot on.
I would recommend a good vent kit. I run a kit from XXX modrods, as well as an upper vent from roest (?) racing. Also heat tape EVERYTHING under the hood near the turbo. Front mounts run HOT, and you need to protect the wiring.
Overall, I'm satisfied with the BD kit. It runs well and pulls hard for less money than other turbo kits. I will say that you pay for what you get, and the more expensive kits will have better fit/finish. No matter what you get, you should know that a turbo takes a little more maintenance, and the BD kit requires high octane unless you run a headshim, so fuel is going to be an additional cost as well.
I don't care what kit you buy, it will forever change the way you look at the mountains. I didn't intend for this to turn into a book...but there you have it. Hopefully that helps you out.
The kit I ordered came with a koso A/F gauge, older style trail tank (more on this later) the ADA system, BD box, 2860RS turbo, intercooler, BOV, extra injectors, and all the hardware to install it.
The install wasn't HARD, but it definitely required some mechanic skills. Thankfully while I was in hawaii my dad took care of most of the install for me. In addition to the mostly complete directions, a call to boondocker with any questions was always answered by very helpful folks on the other end.
In addition to the turbo I added the KOSO A/F gauge, supertips in my primary, a shockwave helix in the secondary and an Arctic Cat red/white spring in the secondary as well. This gave me as much adjustability as I could handle.
Once it was installed we noticed a few fit/finish issues. The cage on the air intake is just a little too big, and hits the side panel. We had to trim back the rubber intake hose, which then made it more difficult to get the filter cage installed. The other option would be to use a longer hose and cut a hole in the side panel. Issue #2 isn't really boondockers fault. The first generation trail tank that came with the ki was molded with a depression in the bottom so all of the turbo components will clear. The tank is a tight fit when mounting it, and the upper shroud does not bolt up cleanly. It takes a good deal of pushing and pulling to get the holes lined up. Hopefully BD has moved on to the 2nd gen trail tank by now.
Issues: The very first ride out, the coolant return line on the turbo split just after the super cool custom fitting that boondocker puts on. I searched all over town, and was in and out of plumbing stores and shops that specialize in fittings. I actually never found a fitting that fit correctly in the turbo, and just rode with one that was a close fit with some plumbers tape. It still had a slight leak, about a cup of coolant over a ride. It wasn't ideal, but it got me on the snow. I called BD and talked with them about it, and the first time I was offered a new hose for around $75.00. I declined, and stuck with my homebrew fix while I was home. Then last year, I called again and they sent me a hose with a new fitting setup for $35.00. So far it has held up great. The coolant leak caused the heat tape to unstick from the trail tank, so that had to be glued back on with some high temp epoxy.
The only other issue I've had with it running was my fault. I should have changed the plugs when we first installed the turbo, but it wasn't a concern at the time. I had over 1k miles on it when we did the install, and after 3 or 4 rides I was getting detonation - it turned out to be the plugs. Swapped them out and it runs great now! From now on its getting new plugs/new A/F sensor each fall just to be on the safe side.
On to the good stuff...the ADA system. I can adjust boost from 10-15lbs with the push of a button. It will go higher, but 15lbs is more than enough for me. You can set it up to increase boost with altitude to keep your HP consistent (yes, the ADA senses altitude). There is also a "push to pass" button that will increase boost to a pre-set number for some extra ummph when you need it. Once boost starts to build, it is displayed on the ADA box. For this reason I mounted mine on the top of my bars. I will say that the ADA box uses % to increase boost, so when I want to run 10lbs I leave it on 00, and when I want 15lbs of boost I program 35 (%). This took a little testing to figure out, but once you have that down it takes all of 5 seconds to go from 10lbs to 15lbs.
The BD box comes preset with numbers, and honestly I think the sled runs the best with the numbers from BD. I just leave it alone and ride. Boost starts kicking in around 5k RPM, and that is when the box begins adding fuel through the extra injectors. The only thing I really use the box for is to check my max boost to make sure I'm not overboosting or to double check where I've got it set. So far the settings in the box keep my A/F readings spot on.
I would recommend a good vent kit. I run a kit from XXX modrods, as well as an upper vent from roest (?) racing. Also heat tape EVERYTHING under the hood near the turbo. Front mounts run HOT, and you need to protect the wiring.
Overall, I'm satisfied with the BD kit. It runs well and pulls hard for less money than other turbo kits. I will say that you pay for what you get, and the more expensive kits will have better fit/finish. No matter what you get, you should know that a turbo takes a little more maintenance, and the BD kit requires high octane unless you run a headshim, so fuel is going to be an additional cost as well.
I don't care what kit you buy, it will forever change the way you look at the mountains. I didn't intend for this to turn into a book...but there you have it. Hopefully that helps you out.
