Where to start?

[jamead]

I've been riding a 99(?) RMK 800 for 2 seasons now, and i'm starting to modify it. So far a lefty throttle, handlebar riser, and drilled my running boards out. Also removed foam sound insulation from under the hood. I'd like to know more about a drop and roll, i read you can do it yourself on the cheap, where can i find out more? also, where can i get used sled parts? i'd like an IQ seat. and how do i install a longer track short of buying a conversion kit?

thanks for you help
James

 

[itsallgood]

These older chassis are selling cheap. IMO you would be far better off buying a mod chassis than investing in yours. The drop & roll is a fairly cheap mod but takes alot of time.

 

[go high fast]

RMK 800 came out in 2000 in the Gen II chasis with black hood and 136 inch track. The sled was a beast in its day and still a terrific chasis and motor. In 2001 the 800 RMK was still in Gen II and the Snow Check Special had the red hood and came in the 151 track. Both 2000 and 2001 had the non exhaust valve motor.

Here's what I would and wouldn't do if it were me:

I would:

1) SLP single and SLP can
2) gear down from stock
3) Team LW 04 roller
4) handle bar risers
5) find xlite 151 skid with camo track
6) SLP snap-in flo-rites in the dash for better airflow and SLP airbox kit
7) HOLZ ice scratchers
8) read 10 times Olav Aaen's clutch tuning book
9) read 10 times Olav Aaen's carb tuning book
10) get the Shop Manual and Parts Manual for your year and make of sled
11) get a skid plate
12) get the proper clutch alignment tool
13) get a good cover for it
14) put a salt shield on your trailer
15) keep the rain and sun off of it in the summer
16) get good sled lift
17) use the Gates belts
18) use the Castrol 2 stoke oil


I would not do:

1) drop and roll
2) different seat
3) light weight hood
4) ported track
5) rear skid drop brackets
6) rail extentions to accomodate longer track
7) drill running boards
8) big wheel kit
9) extravert drivers
10) cylinder porting or high compression domes
11) hyper fax


Lefty throttle is good. Not sure why the foam insulation came out unless it was filthy and you removed it for cosmetic reasons.

90% of the time SnoWest is great for used parts but some sellers are completely out to lunch and dont know what they are selling, selling junk, can't get thier chit together for proper packing and shipping in a timely fashion and, in some cases, will flat out lie to you and rip you off. I recommend multiple high quality photos and a good long phone conversation prior to sending $$$$. I would also recommend you do some homework on the seller with regard to thier history on SnoWest and thier reputation.


800 in Gen II......great sled............bullet proof. Have a blast!!!!

 

[Rammit]

I really love my genII's just sont do go crazy with the motor, ive been through a few and now have gone back to stock. i have a 2001 snowcheck and it rocks I have run a mesh hood, slp pipe, had NOS but that turned out to be out of my leauge, but in stock form it rips, mesh hood really only helps when ur diging it out, but i think it makes a difference. fox shocks make a big difference, i put them on my non snowcheck

 

[rmkboxer]

take a picture of it and post it, I have several things for the sled. I have put 800's in older chassis and they worked great. I would like to see what tunnel it has on it if it is a 99 or 00-01 tunnel

 

[Scott]

I've got some suggestions too...and I'll expound on GHF's post in bold.

I've been running GenII chassis since 2000 and have done just about everything you can to it...and saw what works and what doesn't work. Some things are gimmicks and some are NEEDED for this chassis.

RMK 800 came out in 2000 in the Gen II chasis with black hood and 136 inch track. The sled was a beast in its day and still a terrific chasis and motor. In 2001 the 800 RMK was still in Gen II and the Snow Check Special had the red hood and came in the 151 AND 144 track. Both 2000 and 2001 had the non exhaust valve motor.

I would absolutely do the following:
1) drop and roll (huge gains in powder can be made with a conservative drop and roll) Been there and done that.
2) different seat (I HATE going from my Boss hi-rise back to my Dad's stock GenII seat)
3) light weight hood (shave as much as you can from that front end)
4) ported track (jury is out on that...you can definately do this one wrong and have problems but it can also be done correctly too)
5) rear skid drop brackets (drop the front mount too when you do this)
6) rail extentions to accomodate longer track (IF THE TUNNEL is long enough)
7)
8) big wheel kit (rolling resistance lessened somewhat)
9) extravert drivers (lets you run the track a bit looser with less rolling resistance)
10) cylinder porting or high compression domes (the non-ves motors NEED porting. The casting from the factory is crappy and porting is slow but don't get too greedy on the compression.)
11) hyper fax (I would ALWAYS put these on. They are rated a lot higher temp resistance)

12) light weight front suspension--spindles, shocks, rods and t-arms.

I did all of those to my sled and have had GREAT LUCK with those types of mods on that chassis. That chassis LOVEs those types of mods.


OR if you can spend less on all that stuff and buy my sled that listed in my signature...

 

[X2Freeride]

I've got some suggestions too...and I'll expound on GHF's post in bold.

I've been running GenII chassis since 2000 and have done just about everything you can to it...and saw what works and what doesn't work. Some things are gimmicks and some are NEEDED for this chassis.




I would absolutely do the following:
1) drop and roll (huge gains in powder can be made with a conservative drop and roll) Been there and done that.
2) different seat (I HATE going from my Boss hi-rise back to my Dad's stock GenII seat)
3) light weight hood (shave as much as you can from that front end)
4) ported track (jury is out on that...you can definately do this one wrong and have problems but it can also be done correctly too)
5) rear skid drop brackets (drop the front mount too when you do this)
6) rail extentions to accomodate longer track (IF THE TUNNEL is long enough)
7)
8) big wheel kit (rolling resistance lessened somewhat)
9) extravert drivers (lets you run the track a bit looser with less rolling resistance)
10) cylinder porting or high compression domes (the non-ves motors NEED porting. The casting from the factory is crappy and porting is slow but don't get too greedy on the compression.)
11) hyper fax (I would ALWAYS put these on. They are rated a lot higher temp resistance)

12) light weight front suspension--spindles, shocks, rods and t-arms.

I did all of those to my sled and have had GREAT LUCK with those types of mods on that chassis. That chassis LOVEs those types of mods.


OR if you can spend less on all that stuff and buy my sled that listed in my signature...

Haha very true. I cant believe that sled of yours hasn't sold yet. People dont know what they are missing on a quality well taken care of build.