Where to find Bosch CP3 seal/ rebuild kit for 5.9 Cummins

[Murph]

Can someone point me in the right direction to find/ buy the seal/ rebuild kit for a Bosch CP3 pump out of a 2004.5 Ram 2500 with the 5.9 Cummins?

Looked high and low but can't find a kit, part numbers, etc...

Thanks for any help.

 

[AZ800]

Try TC diesel. They were very helpful w my injectors. Maybe they can lead you in the right direction. Or some of the aftermarket guys that sell modified CP3s. They must have access to those parts.

 

[Murph]

Finally found the kit @
Valley Fuel Injection & Turbo, Inc.
1243C E. Beamer St
Woodland, CA 95776
(530)668-0818

Valley Fuel Injection & Turbo, Inc. - Home

Thanks to Alex Pivnik @ Valley Fuel Injection.

VFI recommended that I don't service the CP3 pump myself but we're willing to sell me the parts for $75. I will attempt to reseal my leaking pump. If I am unsuccessful, I will exchange my pump with one of their rebuilt units.

After getting a brief tour of their facility, and seeing their full suite of Bosch testing machines, I have full confidence in their abilities. Their pump and injector assembly room rivals the engine building rooms I have seen at the highest levels of World Championship Motorcycle racing. (I have worked in both the Motogp and World SBK paddocks)



Bag reads:

Bosch
DGK603
F00E2003057HU
Gasket kit

Made in Czech Republic

(SKU) 0 28851 08141 2

The kit includes all o-rings, seals, Harwal seals, etc.

 

[mattymac]

That pump has the ability to put out 25-30000+ lbs of fuel pressure and that fuel system has tolerances in the millionths of an inch! Has to be put together perfect and with zero dirt particles!!! Be careful murph!!!

 

[Murph]

That pump has the ability to put out 25-30000+ lbs of fuel pressure and that fuel system has tolerances in the millionths of an inch! Has to be put together perfect and with zero dirt particles!!! Be careful murph!!!

For sure, I totally agree. I am focusing on the junction of two dissimilar metals. My goal is to disturb as little as possible the rest of the pump. Have to be careful of ANY dirt, debris, etc.....


BUT... and this is why I am attempting at all, the same would be true if I bought a "refurb'd" pump. I would still be opening the lines low and high pressure past the fuel filter. At least the pump disassembly I can do in a controlled environment, versus reconnecting lines in the always grungy confines of the engine compartment...

 

[Jblaze74]

Interesting, let me know if you need help! Been working on Cummins for 6 years in Sparks. Defiantly keep it clean, book states to wait 10 mins after shut down to open any high pressure lines. Of course keep your hands clear of high pressure lines when starting up. Gravy!!! Sounds like you gotta grip on it though....

 

[Murph]

Interesting, let me know if you need help! Been working on Cummins for 6 years in Sparks. Defiantly keep it clean, book states to wait 10 mins after shut down to open any high pressure lines. Of course keep your hands clear of high pressure lines when starting up. Gravy!!! Sounds like you gotta grip on it though....

I appreciate the offer. Might even take you up on it... Most of the work I've done over the years involves 1/4" and 3/8" ratchets and small torque values. Roadrace motorcycles, dirtbikes, and sleds...

Add in the fact that I'm sick and working outside and actually having to refer to a manual ( versus working from memory)...... Got some antibiotics today, hoping I feel better and the brain is a little clearer tomorrow.

Is the fan clutch on a 2004 (325hp ) right hand or left hand (reverse) thread? I've seen conflicting reports...

 

[slash]

piece of cake job ,sometimes the mating surfaces aren't perfect 1500 wet paper and a glass table top can normally true them up unless you have a burr plate.

 

[slash]

ps rev thread fans say left hand on the shroud

 

[Murph]

piece of cake job ,sometimes the mating surfaces aren't perfect 1500 wet paper and a glass table top can normally true them up unless you have a burr plate.

Good to hear. Most shops around here like to say, "Don't touch that... You'll f it up for sure...." Reminds me of the scuba dive industry where they tell you never to service or disassemble your own regulators "or you will DIE!" Then you pull your first reg apart and realize how simple a device they really are.

My thoughts are just to focus on the steel/ aluminum mating service and not disturb the rest of the pump. If I need to clean up mating surfaces, I'll use your prescribed wet sand method and then clean, irrigate, with brake cleaner, shoot compressed air though passages and then assemble using oil to lube the orings. Acceptable method? Am I forgetting anything or off base?

I have no problem pleading ignorance, and input is appreciated (my ego is not wrapped up in this and I won't be offended)

Thanks Slash and JBlaze for your guidance/ offer to help.

 

[ryanjeri]

I have purchased from T&C, got some injectors, a cp3 fca and modded rail.

I do not have any complaints with my dealings with him.

it was for a 04.5

 

[Jblaze74]

Your on the right path. Lots of brake clean, or even better and more expensive is contact cleaner. Lint free cloths would be a good idea as well. I've never seen the inside of one. Pictures would be cool!!!


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[Murph]

Definitely found part of my problem. 4 of the 6 bolts that hold the two halves of the CP3 together are missing. Alex told me to look for those bolts to be broken. I asked him about a torque spec and he laughed and said "gutentight" and blue loctite.

With this discovery, I think I'll replace the four bolts remove and replace the two remaining and loctite all six. Without disassembling the pump. If it continues to leak , I'll pull it again and replace all the orings/ seals.

 

[Jblaze74]

Was it full blown leaking fuel or just a damp? need to go inspect mine....

 

[Murph]

Typically, they weep on Duramaxs and Cummins motors--especially in cold climates. Mine was full on dripping at idle, I can only imagine it was full on spraying at 2000rpm and 40,000psi

 

[Jblaze74]

Bath time if you got that going on. Good stuff!


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[Murph]

Fired truck back up after adjusting valves to .010/ .020

CP3- no more drip at idle. Drive to Reno 25 miles feels good. Parking lots are wet, hard to look for drips. Go to Home Depot, find a dry part of parking lot and climb underneath. Fluid on steering box f#ck! Wipe off fluid and stuff paper towels under CP3. Drive home. Paper towels under CP3 dry....

See some fluid on steering box front and rear. Jack up truck, and have a buddy cycle the steering left and right while I lay on my back and look for active leaks. Don't see anything.

Just read up on clogged PS reservoir cap vent-- will be checking/ modifying that tomorrow....

 

[Murph]

Dry so far....

CP3 and paper towels stuffed all around it dry. HP and LP lines and fittings dry

Power steering reservoir cap vent was plugged solid- cleared vent of grime and relieved inside of cap to allow vent to relieve pressure. Removed fluid from slightly overfilled reservoir.

Just drove 15 miles into town with an excessive time idling waiting for Caltrans to clear lane.

Got home and climbed under truck. No visible leaks, no evidence of fluid....

Crossing fingers that this is the end of the leaks.

 

[Murph]

Exploded view of CP3

 

[Murph]

You can see where four bolts were missing from 2 @ roughly 5 o'clock and two from 7 oclock