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Where the hell do i turn up the boost on my mcx?

mines right beside the intake,hard to see in picture maybe.small knob turns it up and down easily.:)

IMG_0453.jpg
 
Talk you rear plastics, seat off and the metal shroud. On the turbo waste gate controller you can adjust the metal rod that attaches it to the waste gate. Shorten the rod and you increase boost. Lengthen the rod and decrease boost. I put my boost to the lowest setting 10psi and then am using a hallman rx pro boost controller(ran to the handle bars) to increase it up and down from 10 psi to 17 psi. This way you dont have to take the seat off everytime you want/need to increase boost.
 
Talk you rear plastics, seat off and the metal shroud. On the turbo waste gate controller you can adjust the metal rod that attaches it to the waste gate. Shorten the rod and you increase boost. Lengthen the rod and decrease boost. I put my boost to the lowest setting 10psi and then am using a hallman rx pro boost controller(ran to the handle bars) to increase it up and down from 10 psi to 17 psi. This way you dont have to take the seat off everytime you want/need to increase boost.

I would go with this one sounds like he knows:face-icon-small-hap.

But the handle bars make it easy to blow her up. I would put it close to turbo by air intake:beer;
 
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Is this the stage two kit. are you guys running the extra fuel pump? did you get the box remapped to go this high on boost levels?
 
I dont actually have it mounted directly to the handle bars, it is mounted on the front side of the risers. You can be riding it, turn it up and check it without having to stop. Just turn it up a little more check your boost gauge and keep trying, until you get the your desired boost level.

My MCX kit came with a external fuel pump and is mapped to around 18 psi(17.8).
Later kits did not come with the external fuel pump and are only mapped to 15psi. You would have to get a external fuel pump and the box remapped if you have the later released kit.
 
quote:Tnytro
My MCX kit came with a external fuel pump and is mapped to around 18 psi(17.8).
Later kits did not come with the external fuel pump and are only mapped to 15psi. You would have to get a external fuel pump and the box remapped if you have the later released kit.[/QUOTE]

Why is it the early kits were mapped to 18psi and the later kits mapped for 15psi? You would think they would start with less and then improve with more. Was there a problem?
 
I dont actually have it mounted directly to the handle bars, it is mounted on the front side of the risers. You can be riding it, turn it up and check it without having to stop. Just turn it up a little more check your boost gauge and keep trying, until you get the your desired boost level.

My MCX kit came with a external fuel pump and is mapped to around 18 psi(17.8).
Later kits did not come with the external fuel pump and are only mapped to 15psi. You would have to get a external fuel pump and the box remapped if you have the later released kit.

thats good to know, i'll be keeping myself at 14psi or less. Which is really more than enough power for me anyways.
 
I have no clue, but the stock fuel system can only support the 240HP and not much more. I can't tell you why they would change it.

There are a couple of different control boxes from MCX. I have the farely large one. Some hae one that is Flat. Hard to describe.

I think MPI is selling a fuel system upgrade kit for the Nytro. Not completly sure though.
 
Just set it to 18lbs and be done with it. I had an early kit, as well as a A/F gauge. It was plenty safe. 100LL AV. Head shim. Vroooooom Vroooooom
 
As i have learned about the turbo 4 stroke yamaha, I listened to a few guys on here and shortened the waste gate rod, thats a NO NO. If you do this you are reducing the amount the waste gate opens. You also build boost, but slow your exit of waste. So if you want more boost add a hallman boost control knob between the turbo snail and the waste gate actuator and that will let you run the amount of boost you want. I like the idea of being able to turn it way down in the even you need to borrow some pump gas to get out of the mountains from your buddy. JMO
 
As i have learned about the turbo 4 stroke yamaha, I listened to a few guys on here and shortened the waste gate rod, thats a NO NO. If you do this you are reducing the amount the waste gate opens. You also build boost, but slow your exit of waste. So if you want more boost add a hallman boost control knob between the turbo snail and the waste gate actuator and that will let you run the amount of boost you want. I like the idea of being able to turn it way down in the even you need to borrow some pump gas to get out of the mountains from your buddy. JMO

Boost controllers do the same thing as adjusting the wastegate rod. They both control the amount the wastegate opens. Wastegate simply allows a pecentage of volume of exhaust gas to exit around the turbine, thus controlling boost levels. Boost controllers either bleed off or interrupt air signal from compressor to actuator, either way the wastgate movement is controlled.
 
for you guys with out the extra fuel pump, I just added an additional fuel pump and regulator and plumbed it into the mcx injectors, and left the stock fule pump plumbed into the stock injectors, this way you have enough fuel for what ever boost you want to run and adjust a.f readings with fuel pressure. worked really good I could adjust my a/f readings any where I wanted them. I know the stock mapping they ran 16,s I like 12,s. you will need to install a return line from your regulator back to your tank as well. I hooked up the fuel pump to come on when the key was on. you can tie it into the stock pump as well.
 
I agree that they will do the same thing. But your actuator has a range of motion, and if you shorten it/or make it open less, by shortening the rod, you are creating less off a path for the waste to exit. Call a few turbo shops, none of them will tell you to add threads to a waste gate rod. They all will tell ya that ya need to have .020 gap open at a certain psi on the actuator. Last season I was told by a few to add treads. and I did, and when I had the turbo off this week, I has lost 1/3 of the range of motion, and I only shortened up the waste gate rode 1/4 inch.

Jim
 
I think i see what you are saying. By changing rod length you affect the degrees of movement on the wastegate at any given psi.Good point!!
Thanks
 
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