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Wheels

T

thewwkayaker

Member
Who has ridden on their ski wheels a long distance up a road that was plowed to get to the goods? How far? What wheels are you riding? How was the ride (cornering, bumps etc)?
 
Who has ridden on their ski wheels a long distance up a road that was plowed to get to the goods? How far? What wheels are you riding? How was the ride (cornering, bumps etc

I don’t think most wheel kits are designed for riding, just moving the bike around. Friend of mine built one that pivoted in the middle in such a way that it would turn as you turned the ski, so you could ride, but it was ackward, slow and not exactly something you would do except to move around a parking lot.
 
There is a road that we normally ride up but they are logging in the area so they plowed about 5km up the road (and beyond) where we split off. But you can't park on the road (logging trucks are very very big) so you park below. I was hoping there is a wheel set you can ride on then pull off at the start of real snow. The road is pretty smooth but they do too good a job removing the snow for the logging trucks.
 
You would want one that pivots a fair amount (at the correct angle) and has large pneumatic tires if you're gonna be riding with them.

I think you'd be better off putting the stock wheel on and packing the ski, spindle and a stand to do 5k. You'll also want a way to lubricate the hyfax.
 
Some pros riding with and without wheels on gravel. Looks like the wheels from C3 (which claim to be ridable - uses pit bike wheels). I take it no one has ever tried this.

 
Sledders went up that same road. They didn't like it but didn't hesitate and went pretty quick. Was hoping I could figure out an ok way to do something similar. If you can safely go 30km/hr would be fine. Switching between the real wheel and ski wouldn't be a great solution given the amount of time to do the switch in the cold. Need a quick release for ski and wheel!
 
I have on Yeti/CMX wheel kits. They don't pivot and it SUCKS but you gotta do what you gotta do. I tried it on a set of pivoting wheels and it was a lot better. Skag is only about 1" off the ground so I was hitting a lot of rocks. It was not pleasant but that was the best option I have found.
 
The mototrax spindles were much faster to change between wheels and skis but they have their issues with a crappy bottom block that doesn't put enough pressure on the back of the ski rubber bumper. I've ground my ski down mud roads for miles in the spring to get to the goods with only tiny piles in between to keep the motor cool. It works but wears out the carbide pretty fast... But the sleds have the same problem.
 
I would just go to Harbor freight and build yourself a wheel set fhat the ski rdes on. Grab a couple block ices from the store—bust one up and wedge it around the engine somehow. Strap the other one to the back for when that one melts. if you add a tunnel cooler you could just run a few block ices on the tunnel like sleds do onfrozen roads in the spring.

Like eric said you could just find a Mototrax spindle. It’s just one bolt like your dirtbike thru the axle. Super simple to do, I bought one about five years ago planning to do the same thing as you to access some stuff in May and June in Utah. Thing was garbage in the snow though so you had to make some modifications to it. I traded mine to Eric for an extra timbersled spindle. I’m sure he could tell you what modifications are necessary to make it work.
 
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I'm using a Motion Engineering wheel kit. The wheels aren't strong enough to ride (plastic spokes) but from I recall reading the guy who designed it said the axle is strong enough to ride just not the wheels. That system pivots and is easy enough to get on an off. I wonder if you replaced the wheels with pit bike wheels if it would be strong enough? I figure you can hide your wheel kit once you get to the snow, do your ride and pick it up for the return. It's interesting that no one has come up with a good solution given it should be fairly common problem.
 
Drive up in your truck until you get stuck, dig out, then drive some more, park. That's our system, the first stuck is always a red herring, there's always more snirt after stuck number 1.

M5
 
Drive up in your truck until you get stuck, dig out, then drive some more, park. That's our system, the first stuck is always a red herring, there's always more snirt after stuck number 1.

M5
Can't when the area is being logged - they clear the road for their trucks and you cannot leave yours on the side (no room to pass). You could dig out by hand an area next to where the turn off from their road is but you couldn't get many vehicles tucked in.
 
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