Do I need to take off my primary to change my spring and weights? I was thinking I just need these tools http://www.receng.com/servlet/the-1836/ATV-Snowmobile-Clutch-Tools/Detail to change the weights and then do I just remove the 5 or 6 outer circumference bolts to change the spring? Advice please. Any other tips you can offer?
What tools do I need?
- Thread starter Bamboozled
- Start date
tools
If you change your weights when you change your spring you don't need the tool mentioned to change your weights. And yes just remove the 6 outer bolts evenly, easiest to remove 3 completely then other 3 evenly till it pops, you can actually hold the pressure with one hand and spin them out pretty fast once you get them all almost out. You then need an allen wrench and a socket to remove the pin that holds the arm, buy a cheap socket and grind/bevel one side to fit over the nut and a t-handle allen works great to spin out the pin. With clutch installed and spring in you can pry sheave open with a flat blade screwdriver, then insert a wrench and pry the rest of the way and insert a 1/2" socket or block or whatever you desire to hold it open and replace weights while on the trail without taking off outer cover. Just be sure that you have spring compressed enough that there is enough room to remove arm. Sounds like a lot but once you do it for the first time it will all make sense and is pretty sraight forward
If you change your weights when you change your spring you don't need the tool mentioned to change your weights. And yes just remove the 6 outer bolts evenly, easiest to remove 3 completely then other 3 evenly till it pops, you can actually hold the pressure with one hand and spin them out pretty fast once you get them all almost out. You then need an allen wrench and a socket to remove the pin that holds the arm, buy a cheap socket and grind/bevel one side to fit over the nut and a t-handle allen works great to spin out the pin. With clutch installed and spring in you can pry sheave open with a flat blade screwdriver, then insert a wrench and pry the rest of the way and insert a 1/2" socket or block or whatever you desire to hold it open and replace weights while on the trail without taking off outer cover. Just be sure that you have spring compressed enough that there is enough room to remove arm. Sounds like a lot but once you do it for the first time it will all make sense and is pretty sraight forward
That link is a tool that is used instead of a screwdriver as pawpaw said. To change the spring, you have to take the outside cover off (remove the 6 bolts). You can even do it while your sled is on it's side so you don't have to remove the clutch. Removing the clutch is not extremely hard but you have to be very careful you don't strip the threads in your crank. It's a strange process to remove the clutch. The dreaded pop still scares me.
When you put the cover back on make sure you do not overtorque the bolts. It is better to be safe than sorry, if you twist one off you may never retrieve it and may have to throw the clutch away.
E
EricW
Well-known member
Don't forget to take note of the "X" on the outer clutch cover and it's orientation with the clutch. All the main components are balanced and need to go back on exactly the way they come off. You can also take a magic marker and put a mark on the clutch cover and the tower, sheeve if you don't know where to look for the X's that are cast into the pieces. You don't need to index the weights as long as they all weigh the same. An ignition wrench will work for holding the lock nut on the weight pin bolt if you don't have the modified socket mentioned above. There are also torque specs for the clutch face bolts and the weight pin bolts. Don't over torque them, a broken one is a pain. I also add a spot of blue locktite to the weight pin bolt before installing the nut. That lock nut can loose its lock pretty fast.
Good luck. EW
Good luck. EW
Do you happen to know the torque settings?
Thanks everyone for chiming in. Appreciate it!
Good point. This gets over looked.
I would say no to the locktite on the weight pin nuts.
A field trick is to carry a 2 foot cam buckle 1" nylon strap...tighten it around the sheave across the plate...release the fasteners and primary cover will ease off as you let out on the cam buckle. To reinstall push to start with left hand while snugging down the cam buckle with right...once it's close enough to get a start on your fasteners..work it on til snugged.
No loctite...carry a few extra nyloc nuts for the app and one or two spare pins as well. I can usually change weights many many times prior to wearing out a nyloc nut.
No loctite...carry a few extra nyloc nuts for the app and one or two spare pins as well. I can usually change weights many many times prior to wearing out a nyloc nut.
H
Hairy Mark
Well-known member
Eric, ROb has had far worse then that done to him by his friends.
What does an ignition wrench look like and does anyone know torque specs on face bolts---someone told me it was 10.
