What RPM should my Clutch Engage '07 800r

[brahm]

I searched and searched, but had no luck. I'm sure this has been posted before

What is the optimum RPM for my clutch to be engaging at on a 2007 Rev 800r 151.

I just finished doing a few changes to my clutch as per suggested to me . It seems I'm engaging at a much Higher RPM then I did before, around 4k or so. I don't recall what I was engaging at before, but I'm pretty sure it wasn't that high, it really grabs and lurches forward, while before it was a smoother engagement.

Is this what I should expect with an aftermarket clutch kit? I've never ridden one before.

The only thing I still need to adjust is to put lighter pin weights in, right now I'm running 13.8s when It was recommended I use 10.5-11's for my current clutching setup.


Current Setup -

Primary
415 Ramps
13.8 Pin Weights
Yellow / Almond, 160/320 Spring
Clicker #4

Secondary Setup
Team Tied Secondary
66-60.36 / 66-62.33 Helix
Black and Red Spring

Thanks
_Brahm

 

[Dynamo^Joe]

415 Ramps
13.8 Pin Weights
Yellow / Almond, 160/320 Spring
Clicker #4

From my experiences that's about right for the initial few tanks of gas.
The spring will end up setting the rpms come down 100~150.

Some tachs are out. I have had one that read 4400 at 4000 actual. One that read 3950 at 4000 actual. One that read 4250 at 4000. One that read an actual 4000 or darn close to it at 4000. At my former work, we had a frequency generator that I could hook any tacho up to it and check it's calibrations at any rpms.

A note - tachs are calibrated to read correctly at the factory installed position due to the weight of the needle vs the calibrated spring inside and outside temperature.

 

[brahm]

415 Ramps
13.8 Pin Weights
Yellow / Almond, 160/320 Spring
Clicker #4

From my experiences that's about right for the initial few tanks of gas.
The spring will end up setting the rpms come down 100~150.

Some tachs are out. I have had one that read 4400 at 4000 actual. One that read 3950 at 4000 actual. One that read 4250 at 4000. One that read an actual 4000 or darn close to it at 4000. At my former work, we had a frequency generator that I could hook any tacho up to it and check it's calibrations at any rpms.

A note - tachs are calibrated to read correctly at the factory installed position due to the weight of the needle vs the calibrated spring inside and outside temperature.

Thanks Joe,
I usually don't pay much attention to the tach. When I was moving it around in the garage and checking things out it sounded like it was engaging at a much higher rpm. I took note of the approx 4k range which surprised me. That's good to hear that is where it should be. All my clutching efforts have been to improve some issues I have when the sled is under load and full throttle I didn't think much of how it would effect other aspects of how the sled performed until I went to move her in the garage and I really had to rev her up to engage and move a couple inches at which point it "LEAPED" forward.

So just to be clear the clutch engagement RPM is based off the stiffness of the primary spring and nothing else, which means my stock spring was getting really soft if it was engaging at what I believe was a much lower RPM. Changing the pin weights won't effect this only top end RPM correct?


Thanks again
-Brahm

 

[winter brew]

Mostly the primary spring.....pin weight has a slight effect on engagement RPM.
Make sure the belt is all the way up in the secondary, if it's not then it will engage harshly.
As Joe said, it will drop a bit when the spring takes a "set".
Nothing wrong with a 4,000 engagament though.

 

[brahm]

Thanks Winter Brew.

I had to reduce the tension on my belt a bit. It was "squealing". Now my belt sits a bit lower then I thought it should with the cords just slight below the edge line of the secondary. Do you think I should leave it as is, or raise it back up and hope the squealing goes away it's a new belt with about 10-15 miles on it, and I'm finding it's leaving a TON of markings on the clutch.

It's good to hear 4k is acceptable, but just out of curiosity what is ideal?

 

[winter brew]

Leave the belt low until it wears a bit, then maybe you can adjust it higher. If it's too tight it makes it harder to start, will squeel and will not go into reverse every time.
There is no ideal engagement, some guy like it low.....some like it higher, just depends on the person and the type of riding.
For me, I like about 4,000 with a ramp that allows a smooth take-off, not something that will blow the snow out from under the track in the deep.

 

[brahm]

Leave the belt low until it wears a bit, then maybe you can adjust it higher. If it's too tight it makes it harder to start, will squeel and will not go into reverse every time.
There is no ideal engagement, some guy like it low.....some like it higher, just depends on the person and the type of riding.
For me, I like about 4,000 with a ramp that allows a smooth take-off, not something that will blow the snow out from under the track in the deep.

Thanks again, one more thing if you don't mind.

If once I get the sled out there and am trudging threw the powder find it's hitting to hard for my liking which way should I go with my ramps 413s? or 417s? To get a smoother take off. Also what's the best way to pop the pins out of the ramps, and replace them in the ones without a press. (or is a press needed? When I was looking to switch my ramps to 415s from team (before I noticed the 415 stamped in my current ramps. I was having a really hard time getting the locater pin out (I think that's what it's called).


-Brahm

 

[winter brew]

I would leave the 415's. You can press the pin out in a vice with a punch, or 2 sockets....one slightly smaller than the pin, another for the pin to slide into. Make sure the roll-pin gap is not under the retaiing bolt head or it will cause the ramps to bind when changing clickers.
What belt are you using?

 

[brahm]

I would leave the 415's. You can press the pin out in a vice with a punch, or 2 sockets....one slightly smaller than the pin, another for the pin to slide into. Make sure the roll-pin gap is not under the retaiing bolt head or it will cause the ramps to bind when changing clickers.
What belt are you using?

I'm not sure, I'll double check when I run home for lunch. I picked them up locally when my old belts "glazed", as of now the roll pin gap is slightly off from under the bolt you can see it when looking down though. I believe it was like this stock. I wasn't able to pop them out so I left them as is.

 

[brahm]

Belts a 166