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WHat kind of heater for a two place enclosed?

Turblue

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
I have a 16' enclosed trailer and trying to decide what kind of heater to install....I was thinking of going with a catalytic heater for ease of installation and not requring batteries....the other choice is rv forces air.....not sure if its worth going through the work of installing the rv furnace for the size of the trailer........It's not going to take much for the size.......
 
I have a 16' enclosed trailer and trying to decide what kind of heater to install....I was thinking of going with a catalytic heater for ease of installation and not requring batteries....the other choice is rv forces air.....not sure if its worth going through the work of installing the rv furnace for the size of the trailer........It's not going to take much for the size.......

if you want safe get a RV forced air heater..20,000 BTU will do just fine..i have a 30,000 in a 27 footer and it is awesome,,didnt want something that goes BOOM:eek:
 
..A thread on this subject ran for quite some time. But i'm not sure how you go about pullin' it up my friend.. My personal choice would be a caty..:). A Mr. heater's gonna run you about $50-60 I think. The one I have you can also tip 90 degrees & use as a cook stove:D. Been there, done that, bought the t-shirt.

..oops!! Just re read yer question. Sounds like yer gonna install a permanent type set up..Sorry
 
I did a suburban brand heater in my 27 ft. interstate........works awesome. 40,000.btu 24 inches wide, 7 inches tall, 22 inches deep......installed it above the rear door, still have 74 inches to the floor..
 
My 2 place is 16' plus the V nose and i have an Attwood 26,000 btu. Works awesome, zero complaints.
 
catayltic vs forced air

My last inline 3 place had a wall mount Northern Flameless catayltic heater and the 4 place trailer I have now has a forced air. The big difference between the two types of heat is that the catayltic heater generates a lot of moisture and a thick frost will develop on the walls even with the roof vent partially opened. The forced air will generate very little moisture and develop very small amounts of frost if any at all with the roof vent partially opened. I removed the rear bottom door seal on both trailers and tilted the trailers back during the night to let the water run out. The floor is dry with the forced air and was full of ice with the catayltic. The catayltic heater uses way more propane than the forced air. The best choice after having both types is forced air.
 
My last inline 3 place had a wall mount Northern Flameless catayltic heater and the 4 place trailer I have now has a forced air. The big difference between the two types of heat is that the catayltic heater generates a lot of moisture and a thick frost will develop on the walls even with the roof vent partially opened. The forced air will generate very little moisture and develop very small amounts of frost if any at all with the roof vent partially opened. I removed the rear bottom door seal on both trailers and tilted the trailers back during the night to let the water run out. The floor is dry with the forced air and was full of ice with the catayltic. The catayltic heater uses way more propane than the forced air. The best choice after having both types is forced air.

thats it I am going with a forced air.......how many batteries do you have with the forced air? How many btu furnace......I found this heater more compact than the other wider one....has anyone tried this style....looks like you can get one for under 300 bones on ebay.....
Suburban NT-20SE
19,000 BTUH
Propane Gas Fired
Electronic Ignition
Wall Mount Thermostat
Direct Discharge
12 volt DC Blower
Amp Draw 2.8
9 1/2'' H x 9 3/4'' W x 21'' D
Chrome Exterior Vent
Easy Install
Only 25 lbs Actual Weight
Made in USA
 
Furnace Type and Battery Set up

I have an Atwood 34000 Ducted in a 22' (27' with the V Continental Cargo). The furnace that Darko uses in his 16' is also ducted. The furnace you are looking at is a direct discharge. I prefer being able to duct as it is nice to direct the heat down and run ducting to the back of the trailer too. They are only +/- $100 more. 20-30,000 BTU will be lots for your trailer. I would look at Atwood Excalibur 8500IV 25000 BTU or the Suburban SF-25.
For battery power most of use us 2-6 Volts tied together, as they last 3 times longer than a 12V. Hook the positive post of one 6-Volt to the negative of the other 6V, and it becomes a 12 V. Then we use a normal battery charger when we are able to plug in, but with this battery set up the furnace should run at least 3 days without charging.
 
I have a little 14' enclosed (10' box, 4' v-nose) that I will probably put a heater in before next winter. I think I'll do forced-air too. Add a battery and run a line to the truck so it'll charge off the truck, then maybe add a small solar panel up top too.

Rob
 
The furnace you are looking at is a direct discharge. I prefer being able to duct as it is nice to direct the heat down and run ducting to the back of the trailer too. They are only +/- $100 more. 20-30,000 BTU will be lots for your trailer. I would look at Atwood Excalibur 8500IV 25000 BTU or the Suburban SF-25.
.

Yeah thats a good point on the ducting........
 
like this
furnace003.jpg
 
Wyoming T/A, do you have more pictures of your set up inside your trailer...please email me or direct me to your other pic if you have posted them!!! Thanks!!!
Kristy
 
I put the sf35 Suburban in my enclosed a few years back and it works great. I have some pics from a couple years back, I mounted mine flat to the wall so it only sticks 9" into the trailer instead of 22". If I ever do it again, I'll build a box under the trailer and duct it up the walls. Much easier to run the propane line, wires, and saves valuable wall space.
 
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