i have the the front brake lever run for my brake. it just doesnt seem to work all that well. any ideas? TIA
weak brake on kx 450 timbersled
- Thread starter sokudo
- Start date
Search for bleeding methods. Many threads on this.
I had all sorts of air in the piston of the caliper i had to pry the brake shoes back open with a screw driver several times and pump back closed. Every time i would see a few little tiny bubbles come back up to the res.. It sucked i was very frustrated.
Before the next years install i might hang the whole assembly on the wall and let gravity do its work for a couple of days. But i bet after getting the air out of the caliper it won't be such a never ending battle either.
The applying the brake for 24hrs seems like it would work well. But then again i get pretty antsy and probably couldn't wait that long haha.
sent from my LG G FLEX
Before the next years install i might hang the whole assembly on the wall and let gravity do its work for a couple of days. But i bet after getting the air out of the caliper it won't be such a never ending battle either.
The applying the brake for 24hrs seems like it would work well. But then again i get pretty antsy and probably couldn't wait that long haha.
sent from my LG G FLEX
I've found that tilting the master cylinder so that the lever end is higher while bleeding makes a huge difference...
I back bled with a syringe and pump bled from the master cylinder for an hour. Squeezing the lever would squeeze the caliper but was spongy and weak. I then turned my bars to the left which tilted my uncovered master cylinder so much that fluid spilled out of the reservoir and maybe 1/8" of fluid covered where the master cylinder sucks in fluid and a ton of air came out. 5 more minutes of bleeding and it literally feels like a new bikes brake. I had to adjust my lever way in from where i keep it with the normal wheel caliper it was bled so well. All this being said, you'll still be squeezing an ice covered frozen rotor to try to stop, you'll be squeezing it well and have a good feel for just how hard your squeezing that little rotor while you are not stopping.
I back bled with a syringe and pump bled from the master cylinder for an hour. Squeezing the lever would squeeze the caliper but was spongy and weak. I then turned my bars to the left which tilted my uncovered master cylinder so much that fluid spilled out of the reservoir and maybe 1/8" of fluid covered where the master cylinder sucks in fluid and a ton of air came out. 5 more minutes of bleeding and it literally feels like a new bikes brake. I had to adjust my lever way in from where i keep it with the normal wheel caliper it was bled so well. All this being said, you'll still be squeezing an ice covered frozen rotor to try to stop, you'll be squeezing it well and have a good feel for just how hard your squeezing that little rotor while you are not stopping.
I've seen tons of posts both here and on Facebook with people having huge problems with bleeding their brake on the mh. I just bled mine by myself the other night it took 5-10 tops and the lever is rock hard. I will admit the first time I did it last season it took a while so I bought a one man brake bleeder. I think it was less than 10 bucks at a local farm fleet supply store. I recommend anyone that has to bleed brakes on anything get one.
Here's a link to the exact one I got locally http://www.summitracing.com/parts/oes-25036?seid=srese1&gclid=CPvxtdvUpcMCFcECaQod2FcAog
Here's a link to the exact one I got locally http://www.summitracing.com/parts/oes-25036?seid=srese1&gclid=CPvxtdvUpcMCFcECaQod2FcAog
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