Want to paint PRO side panels, suggestions?
- Thread starter dub
- Start date
G-Dub,
IMO... take them to a local body shop with a 12 pack.
First remove the decals... wipe them down with wax/grease remover... Sand them with 400 grit paper, into EVERY nook and cranny and wash again.
The body shop uses paint that most don't have access to nor know how to apply (this paint is pretty pricey too) , often the color you want is a "left over" from another job or a stocking color. This paint is better quality and more abrasion resistant.
The panels are made from Thermoplastic PolyOlefin (TPO) which many auto body panels are made of.
The hood is a different (nylon) panel which will not take paint well nor will it hold up to abrasion... regardless of the paint prep supplies used.
Otherwise, use a good quality single part, non catalyzed paint like Brightside urethane paint. It has better quality/durability than most enamels with hardener... and is reasonable cost as long as you want basic colors. No need for primer unless you sand through the topcoat on the panel OR you want to put light colors over white.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.co...familyName=Interlux+-+Brightside+Polyurethane
IMO... take them to a local body shop with a 12 pack.
First remove the decals... wipe them down with wax/grease remover... Sand them with 400 grit paper, into EVERY nook and cranny and wash again.
The body shop uses paint that most don't have access to nor know how to apply (this paint is pretty pricey too) , often the color you want is a "left over" from another job or a stocking color. This paint is better quality and more abrasion resistant.
The panels are made from Thermoplastic PolyOlefin (TPO) which many auto body panels are made of.
The hood is a different (nylon) panel which will not take paint well nor will it hold up to abrasion... regardless of the paint prep supplies used.
Otherwise, use a good quality single part, non catalyzed paint like Brightside urethane paint. It has better quality/durability than most enamels with hardener... and is reasonable cost as long as you want basic colors. No need for primer unless you sand through the topcoat on the panel OR you want to put light colors over white.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.co...familyName=Interlux+-+Brightside+Polyurethane
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Krylon fusion from walmart
Sounds ridiculous but a 4 dollar bottle of krylon fusion spray paint from walmart is awesome. I researched this a few years ago on dootalk for my xp, because they came out with those lame grey side panels in 08 so I painted them black and that stuff held it's own against branches and brush. obviously a professional will do the best work. i will probably paint my own pro panels this year because that isn't where i will choose to put my money. Good luck, make sure to show us what you do.
Sounds ridiculous but a 4 dollar bottle of krylon fusion spray paint from walmart is awesome. I researched this a few years ago on dootalk for my xp, because they came out with those lame grey side panels in 08 so I painted them black and that stuff held it's own against branches and brush. obviously a professional will do the best work. i will probably paint my own pro panels this year because that isn't where i will choose to put my money. Good luck, make sure to show us what you do.
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You have an $11,000 sled, don't spray paint it and don't screw it up yourself. No offense, but unless you know what you are doing it probably won't come out the way you want. Call one of the many guys that do hydro dipping and get the color you want with any pattern (the carbon look is sick) with amazing reliability.
S
sledneck_03
Well-known member
Arctic FX's graphics kits are TOP NOTCH though they dont cover 100% of the panel.
I
i'llDooit
Well-known member
its amazing what people will tell you to do in their own experties,,, when they dont know Sh!t about it, the best advise was to take them to an autobody shop,,, but then he gave you poor advise on prepping the panels yourself,,.......
I am an autobody painter,, for 17 years now. The materials are all readily available at an autobody supply store, and the secret is not flex additive, it is an adheasion promotor that is sprayed on prior to sealor or primer. Someone else said "its an 11,000.00 sled,, get it done right" That is also good advise. take the panels off, and remove the sticker's if your comfortable doing so. then take them to 3 or 4 shops in your area for estimate's. talk to the shop and let them know you will pay cash!!! let each shop know your getting more then 1 bid. ask to see what you can expect them to look like when they are done. go with your best gut feeling on who will do the job right. i've painted with a lot of different painters at larger shops and "looks good" is totally different from 1 guy to the next. it will not be left over paint from another job, thats Mayco. the painter can mix up 10 or 12 or 16 oz's of paint in any colr you want, or bench mix a color to match the red or white,,, yada yada yada. Flex additive is built into the clearcoat on most pain lines these days. hope this helps
I am an autobody painter,, for 17 years now. The materials are all readily available at an autobody supply store, and the secret is not flex additive, it is an adheasion promotor that is sprayed on prior to sealor or primer. Someone else said "its an 11,000.00 sled,, get it done right" That is also good advise. take the panels off, and remove the sticker's if your comfortable doing so. then take them to 3 or 4 shops in your area for estimate's. talk to the shop and let them know you will pay cash!!! let each shop know your getting more then 1 bid. ask to see what you can expect them to look like when they are done. go with your best gut feeling on who will do the job right. i've painted with a lot of different painters at larger shops and "looks good" is totally different from 1 guy to the next. it will not be left over paint from another job, thats Mayco. the painter can mix up 10 or 12 or 16 oz's of paint in any colr you want, or bench mix a color to match the red or white,,, yada yada yada. Flex additive is built into the clearcoat on most pain lines these days. hope this helps
i'llDooit,
I'm sincerely interested in finding out why the advice I gave on prep was poor... I'm always interested in learning... so please don't take this the wrong way.
Are you talking more about adhesion concerns or finish flaws?
The Akzo paint products that I personally applied to my sled in the last 2 yrs on my own and friends sleds worked well on the panels... I did not use any flex-agents and did not need to prime. I'm a fan of the U-Tech paints and the durability in a non clearcoat system.
In the boats that I do, Glamor clear gave me better results than the Pro-Air-Clear... Now I'm sure that the SATA HVLP that I have does not compare to what you use on a daily basis though as I aways cut/buff these and a good painter with good gun lays it down like glass.
The panels on the PRO are already painted and not raw plastic... If the paint is not sanded through during prep... IMO... no need to prime unless you are trying to put a light color over the panel.
This summer, I painted a plastic bodied rock crawler (TPO panels) with the B
riteside paint and had stellar results for durability.
Now... if you are talking about a show quality finish that gets lots of block work (like the show winning boats that I do)... then the finish will not be perfect... but neither are the factory panels.
IMO, if you are looking for a simple color change that will be as good or better than factory.. then I do not see any reason to go to a basecoat/clearcoat system unless you want a "show winner" paint job.
At any given time, the local paint shops in my area have pints or quarts left over from big jobs in many different colors... I picked up a gallon of "Viper Red" with catylist for pretty cheap as a left over from a panel truck repaint.
I'm sincerely interested in finding out why the advice I gave on prep was poor... I'm always interested in learning... so please don't take this the wrong way.
Are you talking more about adhesion concerns or finish flaws?
The Akzo paint products that I personally applied to my sled in the last 2 yrs on my own and friends sleds worked well on the panels... I did not use any flex-agents and did not need to prime. I'm a fan of the U-Tech paints and the durability in a non clearcoat system.
In the boats that I do, Glamor clear gave me better results than the Pro-Air-Clear... Now I'm sure that the SATA HVLP that I have does not compare to what you use on a daily basis though as I aways cut/buff these and a good painter with good gun lays it down like glass.
The panels on the PRO are already painted and not raw plastic... If the paint is not sanded through during prep... IMO... no need to prime unless you are trying to put a light color over the panel.
This summer, I painted a plastic bodied rock crawler (TPO panels) with the B
riteside paint and had stellar results for durability.
Now... if you are talking about a show quality finish that gets lots of block work (like the show winning boats that I do)... then the finish will not be perfect... but neither are the factory panels.
IMO, if you are looking for a simple color change that will be as good or better than factory.. then I do not see any reason to go to a basecoat/clearcoat system unless you want a "show winner" paint job.
At any given time, the local paint shops in my area have pints or quarts left over from big jobs in many different colors... I picked up a gallon of "Viper Red" with catylist for pretty cheap as a left over from a panel truck repaint.
I
i'llDooit
Well-known member
sounds like you know what your doing, but most people dont,, thats why i would let the painter do the prep work. some panels are painted and could be sanded with 4to 600 grit for prep, other times the plastics have a texture you wouldn't want to sand. just eliminating the possability for more work to paint the panels. have a pro do it. Akzo is good material. i've been shooting the waterbourn base. best paint i've ever sprayed. Oh and i use a sata 3000 1.3 daily.
Waterborne messes me up in application... but I would like to learn... Jedi Master stuff!
Thanks for the info..
I do agree, most people don't have the materials or equipment to do the high end jobs.. that is why I put the Briteside out there.
Thanks for the info..
I do agree, most people don't have the materials or equipment to do the high end jobs.. that is why I put the Briteside out there.
I'lll do it -> what about hydro dipping? I suggested that for two reasons.
1. It looks tough as $hit. I saw a demo at a snow show with the dip over the factory stickers (just to show how well it bonded).
2. You can essentially add any pattern or color and mix in logos.
1. It looks tough as $hit. I saw a demo at a snow show with the dip over the factory stickers (just to show how well it bonded).
2. You can essentially add any pattern or color and mix in logos.
I was about to suggest Hydro dipping.
Cost is about $600 for all the panels, for prep and finish.
Cost is about $600 for all the panels, for prep and finish.
What prep work would you have to do on the pro panels before hydro dipping them ? I was thinking of buying a hydrodip kit and do it myself..
J
jstahmann
Member
For less than $400 you can buy two new panels from Polaris, already painted black. The 2010 Pro-ride Rush panels are a direct fit - in fact all of the new panels are interchangeable. I thought about buying a set of white panels from the 2011 600 Rush Pro-R to put on my snow check Pro-RMK with some custom decals. The orange panels from the snow check RMK Assault would look pretty good, too.
hmmmm...it's all top secret
Not really!
The existing panels are just painted from Polaris. The problem with the stock panels that come in black is that it is a high gloss black. I wanted flat black. H2O Graphics in Nampa Idaho painted these side panels and then we covered some key wear areas with 14ml vinyl from ArcticFX. The painter is also a hydro dip applicator so that you can get cool stuff included in your design but the panels are still just painted. He told me the key is prep, product, and number of coats with a sealer finish? I don't know but they look good so far!
Not really!
The existing panels are just painted from Polaris. The problem with the stock panels that come in black is that it is a high gloss black. I wanted flat black. H2O Graphics in Nampa Idaho painted these side panels and then we covered some key wear areas with 14ml vinyl from ArcticFX. The painter is also a hydro dip applicator so that you can get cool stuff included in your design but the panels are still just painted. He told me the key is prep, product, and number of coats with a sealer finish? I don't know but they look good so far!
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And you can probably get those two panels hydro dipped for $200-$300 with whatever pattern/color you want.
Does anybody know how much i would have to pay for a black hood piece?
I have the Black sidepanel/red hood rmk 800 (not pro)
Would look nice with all black!
I have the Black sidepanel/red hood rmk 800 (not pro)
Would look nice with all black!
