Want to clean my power valves...

[Jreng87]

I've looked around a bit, haven't seen too much helpful I guess. I'm gonna put my stage 2 kit on and while I have the pipe out and easier access to stuff I want to clean the power valves, but I haven't done it before. I guess my question is is there any gaskets or seals that I need to replace 100%? Would like to have them on hand before I pull the valves out.

Any other tips, tricks, info, or advice?

Thanks

 

[CO 2.0]

No gaskets anymore. Ring seal. Use some brake cleaner and towels to spray and wipe oil residue/soot off. I scrape the sufaces with caked on soot off with a new straight blade. Be aware of how the valves and springs are oriented when pulling them out cause the springs can all pop out quick if you're not paying attention. The lower steering post needs to be taken out to pull the valves all the way out.

 

[Dirty Steve]

I just did mine. I pulled the lower steering post and slid the valves out, but did not disconnect the actuator cable. I believe if you mess with the cable, you need the digital wrench to get it correctly set again. I just laid an old towel in the belly pan to catch the mess from cleaning.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

 

[OnlyPolaris]

Yes if you mess with the cable in any way the sled needs to be hooked back up to digital wrench to calibrate the valves properly.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Tahoe54]

What interval are they supposed to be cleaned at?

 

[CO 2.0]

Mine are getting enough crap caked up on them to clean them every 300 miles. Using Polaris VES gold plus

 

[Timbre]

Mine are getting enough crap caked up on them to clean them every 300 miles. Using Polaris VES gold plus

The Legend oil i use leaves virtually no residue on the power valves

 

[CO 2.0]

I used to run Legend, don't anymore cause everyone I bought it from stopped selling it because of issues with the owner of Legend. When I used it on my Cats and Pro I had to clean my valves just as much as any other oil I've used. Cleanest oil I've ever used is the Cat Ctec 2 oil. But it's pretty pricey.

 

[SRXSRULE]

I used Redline last winter, pulled them at 500 miles and no build up, simply wiped clean with a rag, same thing at 1000 miles. Sold the sled with 1100 miles on it so that was the end of my testing Eric

 

[summ8rmk]

3,989 miles on my 09, never cleaned the valves.
Took them out at 1,500, 2,600 and 3,895 miles. They were clean and moved smooth as slik, just put them back in.
Ran Legends oil since day 1.
I gave my dealer the oil to prep my sled.
GS6

 

[BJorgy17]

Yes if you mess with the cable in any way the sled needs to be hooked back up to digital wrench to calibrate the valves properly.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Is this the same for the 13-15 pros? I am doing a fix kit on my 15 and I disconnected the two hoses on the valves the take my cylinder off. Thought nothing of it. I just finished cleaning mine tonight, I've always ran VES gold and mine were a mess.

Should I be worries about taking my hoses off?

 

[Reg2view]

Should I be worries about taking my hoses off?

No. 11-15 (and non Axys 16) Pro-ride 800 CFI-2 with pressure activated VES require no synching with the ECU. Just the 16 and up Axys 800HO, and only if you detach the cables.

 

[BJorgy17]

No. 11-15 (and non Axys 16) Pro-ride 800 CFI-2 with pressure activated VES require no synching with the ECU. Just the 16 and up Axys 800HO, and only if you detach the cables.

That's a relief lol ! I couldn't believe how dirty the parts were...took a heavy amount of break cleaner to clean up. I turned my ouler up two turns last year, maybe that was too much

 

[562xp]

I just did mine. I pulled the lower steering post and slid the valves out, but did not disconnect the actuator cable. I believe if you mess with the cable, you need the digital wrench to get it correctly set again. I just laid an old towel in the belly pan to catch the mess from cleaning.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

How are you getting the steering post out? Thanks

 

[FriscoProx]

After you unbolt the top link, take the bottom left boot off, and turn your skis right to get to the bottom linkage bolts. Then turn and lift the steering post out. Here's mine with 1800 miles. First 1/2 miles Klotz, 2nd 1/2 was VES.

 

[Sage Crusher]

Those are horrible......

 

[LoudHandle]

After you unbolt the top link, take the bottom left boot off, and turn your skis right to get to the bottom linkage bolts. Then turn and lift the steering post out. Here's mine with 1800 miles. First 1/2 miles Klotz, 2nd 1/2 was VES.

Klotz leaves a Slick 50 like sludge on everything in the engine. You could not pay me enough to run that crap.

I've also run a lot of the older version of the VES Gold,

but I've since switched to the Top shelf Legend and have been very happy with the results.

These engines seem to respond better to the Ultra Refined Dino Oil than the synthetics I've run. The synthetics offer near zero off season protection for the internals as they have little to no viscosity to cling to the steel parts and therfore provide no rust protection for the crank, rods, and bearings.

Yes, the owner of Legend can be a real D!ck to his dealers / distributors, but I've sourced mine from one of his distributors so that is not a problem I have to deal with. Even shipped to Alaska I've been able to get it for under $50 a gallon so far. But I've bought it four cases at a whack and have them siamese two cases together for USPS shipping.

 

[GreenState]

I ran Legend 2SXR religiously in my Pro's and I never had an engine problem.


I came across this last season, scroll down to post #15:

http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?p=3877148

This scared me and I ran VES last season in our Axys's. 4,600 miles between my wife and I without an internal motor problem or teardown.

Legend works great in the 300 XCW though!