this is a thread that i started in the polaris section. this information fits the artic cats to... hope this helps with the questions that we have been getting from the snowest forum members.
I have always thought that I should start some kind of informative thread series show casing the products that we at Turbo Performance Sell, Service, and Represent. I am not looking for a bashing board. I want true data back and forth. That will ultimately help the end user. We at Turbo Performance are committed to the end user. We want to teach customers the WHY of the product. Build Confidence in the Product and Our Company. There really is not a single place to do this. So I will be scattering these throughout the forum.
I will let each one of the manufactures know when one is coming so they can put some input in as well.
I will start with some of the basics and slowly ramp up from there. We have had the Vipec on our shop sled for a little longer than two years now and have allot on the snow. There is becoming a pattern with customers. Always the same questions. So I want to start from the top and hope I answer some of the thing that need to be accomplished before you can have a good running sled.
The first thing you will notice when you open yow get your new Vipec is. It is nicely boxed and comes with an instruction booklet, one usb cable, and 6 pins. (If more pins are needed let me know we can sell you however many you need). This ecu is made with a billet cover and looks awesome. Because bling on a sled is always nice.
Grab a computer (lap top is nice) I use a windows 8 and it works well. Most windows software work great. Unless it is way old. I personally recommend xp or newer.
Go to www.vi-pec.com then click on the software /firmware tab and download the Latest VTS software. It is free to anyone it comes with sample logs and a variety of
Next go to www.teamviewer.com and download the free version of that software.
Next you will need to install the vipec on the sled and run your usb cord up to the handle bars. Keep it loose enough that the cord will not get pulled out of the ecu. You will leave this cord just hooked up all the time. No need to take it out.
Next you will have to find a good 12 volt power source. You can buy one of our portable ones that fit in your back pack if wanted. You can use a charged car battery, a computer power source, inverter or other source. Just make sure that it can supply constant 12 v power. WE don’t want it quitting in the middle of the download process.
The power will be hooked up to the ecm power plug on the sled orange is 12v + and brown is 12V Neg. We sell the plugs if wanted to make a set of wires for this specific sled.
Now you will need to get all your correct sensors. When you buy the vipec from us we will supply these all to you. Just specify if it is a turbo application or a NA application.
Turbo applications need a 3 Bar map sensor, iat sensor, a good 02 afr package (NGK AFX has worked the best for us), adjustable 1-1 rising fuel regulator kit, fuel pressure gauge, a male barbed fitting.
NA sleds only need a good AFR 02 gauge kit.
A wiring diagram will come from us with the purchase of the ecu. These are very simple to follow. You will also need some good automotive pin crimpers. (We have these if you want) Other than that you are ready to start wiring it in.
Ok to start wiring it in you will need to take off the orange cap off the ecu plug so that you can see the pins. The orange cap comes off by releasing the clips on the sides. Try not to break it. But if you do it is not that big of a problem because the cap will still fit into the ecu.
Ok now the cap is off notice how all the pins line up and look very nice. Your newly installed pins will need to match the factory ones. Your will need to be pushed in the same distance to lock in place. (I know this takes some patients. But the end result will be a lot better for you.)
Now flip the plug over and look at where the wires go into the plug. Notice the places where there is no wire going in. There is a grey plug we will be taking some of those out to install the new wiring. Also notice on each side there is some numbers. On the 26 pin connector which is the small one you will see a 1 or on the other side a 13. On the bottom row you will see a 14 and 26. The wire that is closest to the 1 is number one wire. As you count across the slots put a number to the slot. 12345678910111213. The wire by the 13 is wire 13. (Hope you get it.) So when you are asked to go to 26 connector pin 12 will understand what is being said.
Now take a scratch awl or something and work the grey out the back of the plug to open up the slot.
Now take your wire and crimp on a pin. (18 or 20 gauge wire works the best. All the sensors run off a 5v so this size wire is fine) crimp the pin so it is tight around the wire (not just squished on there.) the crimp will need to be as small as you can get it to go into the ecu plug and not short across. (Patients my friend!)
After crimping the pin on. Push it in the correct numbered slot and make sure it lines up on the front with all the other pins. Sometimes you might need to take a tooth pick or wire to push it in a bit more. If the pin is not lined up with the others it will not make contact with the Vipec ecu.
After getting all the wires into the plugs. Reinstall the orange cap and plug the ecu in. Install all other wires according to manufactures specs.
Now you can start to move to the next session.
Next session.
Power up the ecu through the ECM power plug with the above power source.
Plug the usb connector into the computer. That has the software loaded up.
Now this is where my job comes in. CALL us if you bought the vipec from us. 801-807-8046 www.turboboyz.com Our support will help you with the initial setup, transferring of base maps, screen layouts, testing of injectors, testing of wiring, setting up data log stuff, And sensor calibrations.
If you want to go at it yourself start here.
First off load a sample map in to the vipec software. You do this by going to file/ open/ Base maps then pick a map. The base map will load as well as a base layout. You can mess around with Colors, gauges, bar graphs, and location of things on your screen.
First thing that need to be knows is. In the upper right hand corner the will be a red “OFFLINE” square. When you are offline you are not talking to the ecu. You can make adjustments to map, build a map or whatever but you are not affecting the map in the sled.
To talk with the ecu on the sled you will need to push F3 or on some computers it is function/F3. The computer will search for the ecu and when it finds it the top right corner square will turn green and say “ONLINE” Now the map you see is the one in the sled. Normally just a sample map.
You will need to load your good base map in the sled if you got it. If not ask call us we can get you a free base map.
Now the first thing we want to do is calibrate the tps. Go to Options up top. Scroll down to tps set up. It will ask you to depress the throttle. Depress the throttle all the way and hold it. Hit ok. Then release the throttle and press ok. Now what I like to do is watch the cross hair line in the fuel table and slowly open the throttle. Checking to make sure that the tps is good and that it is not getting stuck on a certain throttle position.
Once this is done you will want to hit Control+S. Control+S Will save your work to the ecu. Anytime you change anything you will need to hit Control+S
Now what I like to do is start the sled. You can leave you power hooked up. And watch the ecu work. You can hit the throttle a couple times to watch it leave a snake trail and it will show you what ignition timing you are in and what fuel correction square you are in. After making sure that this is working properly hit F3 log off the ecu save any map changes to the computer as a revision of the map and try it out.
OK next step is for turbo application.
As a turbo application there is a couple things that you are going to need with this set up. We can supply all these for you.
One is a 3 bar map sensor. This sensor will need to be tapped into a vacuumed/ boost source. This will let the ecu know through a 5v source how much kpa or boost pressure you are running. In the programming of the ecu we will have a 5d fuel table that will add an extra fuel correction as your kpa rises.
Iat which is known as an intake air sensor. This sensor will need to be installed somewhere in the charge tube or air box. Preferably at least six inches away from and injectors. This senses the air temp of the compressed air. We program a correction table into the ecu also for this. As the hot air rises we will cut the the amount of fuel being injected into the motor. Or in other words trim the fuel.
You will also need a good 1-1 rising fuel regulator. This will make it so the fuel pressure stays linear. As the boost rises so will the fuel pressure. This makes the fuel correction tables work correctly. Without any guessing if the amount of fuel you are supply to the motor and injectors is true and correct. We set the base fuel pressure at 45 psi. Our fuel regulator kit comes with everything needed to hook it up.
The fuel regulator needs to be hooked up after all the fuel rails and secondary injectors have received there fuel. It will have one inlet side and one outlet side that will return to the fuel tank.
Next you will need an intake plug. This plug goes in place of the stock fuel regulator is. As you take the stock fuel regulator out keep the big oring we will be needing that to install back on the plug. Install the big oring on the plug and put the screws back in place. A blue lock tight is preferred to use.
Now we always get asked why do we need to fill the hole where the stock fuel regulator is. Well it is about head pressure in the tank. When the tank is full there is more head pressure pushing into the fuel pickups. As the tank get empty this head pressure drops changing the fuel pressure in the system. When we install the plug it forces the fuel to return in to the fuel pickups keeping the head pressure constant.
The last thing you will need to do is zip tie up the air intake sensor that is stock in the intake tube. We will now use this as a barometric pressure sensor for your outside baro. Yes we have a correction table in the ecu that will know your elevation. Trimming the fuel as you go up and adding fuel as you go down in elevation.
Now you are set up for a turbo application. Easy huh!!
Let the tunning begin.
I have always thought that I should start some kind of informative thread series show casing the products that we at Turbo Performance Sell, Service, and Represent. I am not looking for a bashing board. I want true data back and forth. That will ultimately help the end user. We at Turbo Performance are committed to the end user. We want to teach customers the WHY of the product. Build Confidence in the Product and Our Company. There really is not a single place to do this. So I will be scattering these throughout the forum.
I will let each one of the manufactures know when one is coming so they can put some input in as well.
I will start with some of the basics and slowly ramp up from there. We have had the Vipec on our shop sled for a little longer than two years now and have allot on the snow. There is becoming a pattern with customers. Always the same questions. So I want to start from the top and hope I answer some of the thing that need to be accomplished before you can have a good running sled.
The first thing you will notice when you open yow get your new Vipec is. It is nicely boxed and comes with an instruction booklet, one usb cable, and 6 pins. (If more pins are needed let me know we can sell you however many you need). This ecu is made with a billet cover and looks awesome. Because bling on a sled is always nice.
Grab a computer (lap top is nice) I use a windows 8 and it works well. Most windows software work great. Unless it is way old. I personally recommend xp or newer.
Go to www.vi-pec.com then click on the software /firmware tab and download the Latest VTS software. It is free to anyone it comes with sample logs and a variety of
Next go to www.teamviewer.com and download the free version of that software.
Next you will need to install the vipec on the sled and run your usb cord up to the handle bars. Keep it loose enough that the cord will not get pulled out of the ecu. You will leave this cord just hooked up all the time. No need to take it out.
Next you will have to find a good 12 volt power source. You can buy one of our portable ones that fit in your back pack if wanted. You can use a charged car battery, a computer power source, inverter or other source. Just make sure that it can supply constant 12 v power. WE don’t want it quitting in the middle of the download process.
The power will be hooked up to the ecm power plug on the sled orange is 12v + and brown is 12V Neg. We sell the plugs if wanted to make a set of wires for this specific sled.
Now you will need to get all your correct sensors. When you buy the vipec from us we will supply these all to you. Just specify if it is a turbo application or a NA application.
Turbo applications need a 3 Bar map sensor, iat sensor, a good 02 afr package (NGK AFX has worked the best for us), adjustable 1-1 rising fuel regulator kit, fuel pressure gauge, a male barbed fitting.
NA sleds only need a good AFR 02 gauge kit.
A wiring diagram will come from us with the purchase of the ecu. These are very simple to follow. You will also need some good automotive pin crimpers. (We have these if you want) Other than that you are ready to start wiring it in.
Ok to start wiring it in you will need to take off the orange cap off the ecu plug so that you can see the pins. The orange cap comes off by releasing the clips on the sides. Try not to break it. But if you do it is not that big of a problem because the cap will still fit into the ecu.
Ok now the cap is off notice how all the pins line up and look very nice. Your newly installed pins will need to match the factory ones. Your will need to be pushed in the same distance to lock in place. (I know this takes some patients. But the end result will be a lot better for you.)
Now flip the plug over and look at where the wires go into the plug. Notice the places where there is no wire going in. There is a grey plug we will be taking some of those out to install the new wiring. Also notice on each side there is some numbers. On the 26 pin connector which is the small one you will see a 1 or on the other side a 13. On the bottom row you will see a 14 and 26. The wire that is closest to the 1 is number one wire. As you count across the slots put a number to the slot. 12345678910111213. The wire by the 13 is wire 13. (Hope you get it.) So when you are asked to go to 26 connector pin 12 will understand what is being said.
Now take a scratch awl or something and work the grey out the back of the plug to open up the slot.
Now take your wire and crimp on a pin. (18 or 20 gauge wire works the best. All the sensors run off a 5v so this size wire is fine) crimp the pin so it is tight around the wire (not just squished on there.) the crimp will need to be as small as you can get it to go into the ecu plug and not short across. (Patients my friend!)
After crimping the pin on. Push it in the correct numbered slot and make sure it lines up on the front with all the other pins. Sometimes you might need to take a tooth pick or wire to push it in a bit more. If the pin is not lined up with the others it will not make contact with the Vipec ecu.
After getting all the wires into the plugs. Reinstall the orange cap and plug the ecu in. Install all other wires according to manufactures specs.
Now you can start to move to the next session.
Next session.
Power up the ecu through the ECM power plug with the above power source.
Plug the usb connector into the computer. That has the software loaded up.
Now this is where my job comes in. CALL us if you bought the vipec from us. 801-807-8046 www.turboboyz.com Our support will help you with the initial setup, transferring of base maps, screen layouts, testing of injectors, testing of wiring, setting up data log stuff, And sensor calibrations.
If you want to go at it yourself start here.
First off load a sample map in to the vipec software. You do this by going to file/ open/ Base maps then pick a map. The base map will load as well as a base layout. You can mess around with Colors, gauges, bar graphs, and location of things on your screen.
First thing that need to be knows is. In the upper right hand corner the will be a red “OFFLINE” square. When you are offline you are not talking to the ecu. You can make adjustments to map, build a map or whatever but you are not affecting the map in the sled.
To talk with the ecu on the sled you will need to push F3 or on some computers it is function/F3. The computer will search for the ecu and when it finds it the top right corner square will turn green and say “ONLINE” Now the map you see is the one in the sled. Normally just a sample map.
You will need to load your good base map in the sled if you got it. If not ask call us we can get you a free base map.
Now the first thing we want to do is calibrate the tps. Go to Options up top. Scroll down to tps set up. It will ask you to depress the throttle. Depress the throttle all the way and hold it. Hit ok. Then release the throttle and press ok. Now what I like to do is watch the cross hair line in the fuel table and slowly open the throttle. Checking to make sure that the tps is good and that it is not getting stuck on a certain throttle position.
Once this is done you will want to hit Control+S. Control+S Will save your work to the ecu. Anytime you change anything you will need to hit Control+S
Now what I like to do is start the sled. You can leave you power hooked up. And watch the ecu work. You can hit the throttle a couple times to watch it leave a snake trail and it will show you what ignition timing you are in and what fuel correction square you are in. After making sure that this is working properly hit F3 log off the ecu save any map changes to the computer as a revision of the map and try it out.
OK next step is for turbo application.
As a turbo application there is a couple things that you are going to need with this set up. We can supply all these for you.
One is a 3 bar map sensor. This sensor will need to be tapped into a vacuumed/ boost source. This will let the ecu know through a 5v source how much kpa or boost pressure you are running. In the programming of the ecu we will have a 5d fuel table that will add an extra fuel correction as your kpa rises.
Iat which is known as an intake air sensor. This sensor will need to be installed somewhere in the charge tube or air box. Preferably at least six inches away from and injectors. This senses the air temp of the compressed air. We program a correction table into the ecu also for this. As the hot air rises we will cut the the amount of fuel being injected into the motor. Or in other words trim the fuel.
You will also need a good 1-1 rising fuel regulator. This will make it so the fuel pressure stays linear. As the boost rises so will the fuel pressure. This makes the fuel correction tables work correctly. Without any guessing if the amount of fuel you are supply to the motor and injectors is true and correct. We set the base fuel pressure at 45 psi. Our fuel regulator kit comes with everything needed to hook it up.
The fuel regulator needs to be hooked up after all the fuel rails and secondary injectors have received there fuel. It will have one inlet side and one outlet side that will return to the fuel tank.
Next you will need an intake plug. This plug goes in place of the stock fuel regulator is. As you take the stock fuel regulator out keep the big oring we will be needing that to install back on the plug. Install the big oring on the plug and put the screws back in place. A blue lock tight is preferred to use.
Now we always get asked why do we need to fill the hole where the stock fuel regulator is. Well it is about head pressure in the tank. When the tank is full there is more head pressure pushing into the fuel pickups. As the tank get empty this head pressure drops changing the fuel pressure in the system. When we install the plug it forces the fuel to return in to the fuel pickups keeping the head pressure constant.
The last thing you will need to do is zip tie up the air intake sensor that is stock in the intake tube. We will now use this as a barometric pressure sensor for your outside baro. Yes we have a correction table in the ecu that will know your elevation. Trimming the fuel as you go up and adding fuel as you go down in elevation.
Now you are set up for a turbo application. Easy huh!!
Let the tunning begin.
