Has anyone modified (drilled more holes in etc.) that plastic housing above the ECU etc. to add some additional venting? I've read some threads on this regarding heat build up in the electronics/clutch area....Would this help at all? Already have shock tower vents installed for the clutches.... I will be adding some Frogzskin prefilters to all the hood/nosepan vents so there won't be any snow flying in on that side from above.
Venting electronics above clutch?
- Thread starter PusherMan99
- Start date
Yeah I read alot of the ECU/VR probs thread discussion and that was way over my head....can't seem to find the right search for specific info about venting the electronics cover or removing completely-Pros/Cons??? Any damage to electronics being more open in general even if ingested snow taken out of the equation?
A
akrevrider
Well-known member
I installed Frogzskins on all of the hood vents, removed the electronic cover and moved the capacitor from the top of the regulator to the top of the shock tower. Also added extra grounding straps from the electronics shelf to the chassis ground & engine ground.
Results after riding a full season of backcountry riding was zero issues from snow or ice or over heating of the regulator. Plan to add a fan this season for extra insurance.
Good luck
akrevrider
A
akrevrider
Well-known member
I used the best fan I could find - an AVC dual ball bearing high output design (Model DA07015B12U) from xsfans.com It was around $5.50. It is rated at 0.7A max but I found that at 12V it drew just a little over 0.4A. Using a 5 ohm 2 watt resistor brought the 14V on the sled down to just over 12V to the fan. Use the red and black wires, cut/stow the white (tach) wire.
Good luck
akrevrider
I installed Frogzskins on all of the hood vents, removed the electronic cover and moved the capacitor from the top of the regulator to the top of the shock tower. Also added extra grounding straps from the electronics shelf to the chassis ground & engine ground.
Results after riding a full season of backcountry riding was zero issues from snow or ice or over heating of the regulator. Plan to add a fan this season for extra insurance.
Good luck
akrevrider
Any chance of you posting a few pics showing exactly what you did? Really curious about the placement of your grounding straps.
Thanks.
z
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akrevrider
Well-known member
ECU Grounding strap: top plate to bottom plate. Bottom plate to chassis.
These are pics EricW took of his setup and I installed mine the same way.
akrevrider
Protecting the ECU thread. I just removed the plastic housing altogether. When I get more time I will try to post some pics. I removed most of the foam from the electronics shelf above the clutch cover. Used a hole saw to create an opening directly below the voltage regulator. Relocate the capacitor that is mounted above the voltage regulator. I was able to fit it directly above the shock tower area with the existing wiring. The VR stayed just warm to the touch. It pays to note that I was also running an airframe hood. This surely added airflow. There was also no issue with the electronics getting wet.
4
429dhm
Active member
This is how I mounted the fan;
I used a 92mm fan directly mounted to the top of the voltage regulator. I used a grill on each side of the fan; on the regulator side for a mounting point using the original hardware and spacers and on the top for mechanical protection. I mounted the capacitor to the top of the plastic guard. I wired a 5.1ohm, 5W resistor in series to reduce the voltage to 12V and used an inline fuse connected to the power connection at the top of the steering hoop.
This allowed me to keep the plastic guard and keep all the electronics nicely tucked away for protection (but it’s pretty packed under there)
Sorry for the poor images my camera died during the build and I had to use my phone.
I used a 92mm fan directly mounted to the top of the voltage regulator. I used a grill on each side of the fan; on the regulator side for a mounting point using the original hardware and spacers and on the top for mechanical protection. I mounted the capacitor to the top of the plastic guard. I wired a 5.1ohm, 5W resistor in series to reduce the voltage to 12V and used an inline fuse connected to the power connection at the top of the steering hoop.
This allowed me to keep the plastic guard and keep all the electronics nicely tucked away for protection (but it’s pretty packed under there)
Sorry for the poor images my camera died during the build and I had to use my phone.
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