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VE bumper conversion

I have decided to replace that huge broken chunk of plastic on the back of my sled that is ripped out of the holes in the tunnel that it mounts to!!

This is kinda the last step before i get all the parts bought and wade into this project. I just wanted to make sure that with the parts that i want i will be able to run the stock cooler and not have any issues (seems like it hangs down kinda far) This is the bumper that i have decided to go with, it is $169.95

M-SERIESBUMPER.jpg


Originally I was going to use the BDX footrest kickups but then i priced them out :( Now i have decided to use the stock Arctic Cat ones, at $7.78 a piece i think that they will work. These and the bumper will total $185.51 without shipping which didn't seem to bad to me.

For a snow flap i was going to get a Caterpillar mudflap and cut it up and wire in a little led for the tail light.


Please let me know if i need to consider anything else before i get started on this!! Like i said before i would really like to continue running the stock cooler but i do not know if this will be a problem or not. Any info would be appreciated!!

Another question?? Would it be best to use stainless steel rivets in-stead of aluminum ones??

Ken
 
cooler

yes on the stainless and you will be ok on the cooler lt does hang down i ran mine a whole season that way no problems.you can do a search for flattening coolers also.this is my king but i did the same with my m , people will give you different answers on that one but ive been ok,another thing make sure and radius all cut pieces or they will crack
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i used stainless rivets on mine get yourself some cutting oil and a good drill and have at it the stock cooler works good for me
Picture116.jpg
 
I like the VE kit the best too. I would like to do the same thing. Did you have to replace the running board rails too, or just hack the old ones off and stuff the new ends in them? I remember guys talking about switching to a crossfire heat exchanger...
 
yes on the stainless and you will be ok on the cooler lt does hang down i ran mine a whole season that way no problems.you can do a search for flattening coolers also.this is my king but i did the same with my m , people will give you different answers on that one but ive been ok,another thing make sure and radius all cut pieces or they will crack


What do you mean by radius all cuts? Are you talking about rounding edges or just not making any 90 degree cuts??
 
i used stainless rivets on mine get yourself some cutting oil and a good drill and have at it the stock cooler works good for me
Picture116.jpg


Looks great!! Looks like the cooler only hangs down a couple inches which doesn't seem like it would be an issue.

Thanks for the feedback, though i would still like to have some more!!
 
ya it does hang down an inch or two same as stock and the 09 rear flap works great with this setup i know ve exchanger isnt cheap i was already in the setup about 600.00 or more long story
1 bdx rear bumper kit only used the kickups
2vanamburg rear bumpers bent one my fault
2 rear tunnel sections
2 sets of rear kickups ended up using the bent one on the wifes m6 141
and about 150 stainless rivets 4 drill bits
2 09 flaps and tailights
3 bleeding knuckles
if i was going to do it again i would have used the cat side rails which were on back order when i did mine but instead of cutting mine I would have bought vanamburgs rear tunnel section or do the other kit with the rear suspention brackets like someone else has done on here
 
one other thing to think about depending on which flap you go with if you use a soft rubber truck style flap with a flat cooler the snow might not hit the heat exchanger and just go right out the back that is partly why i used the stock cooler as well as cheaper just an opinion
 
Radius Cuts

When I did mine and cut the running board and then the side of the tunnel, I left some extra material on there and instralled the bumper. When I got the bumper on I came back with a 1/2 round file and made the radius cut where the running boards turn up into the tunnel and cleaned up the excess material on the running boards and tunnel with the flat file. This took a little more work but looks great and should be well worth it in the end.
The Arctic Cat running board edges work good too.... Just remeber, after you cut the running boards you have to pop out the last 3 rivets on the running board edges and use a pry bar to bend the last 3 inches or so of the running board edge outwards in order for the gussets to fit. This is beacuse the beaver tail section of the running boards was tapered in on the 08's but was not on the 09's. When you make the initial cut of the running boards, leave them a couple inches longer than needed so when you pry you do not mess up rught here you are gonna rivet the gussets in. Once you have them close to the right angle, you can cut the excess off.
It sounds complicated but it was really easy; it just is a little more work.;)
 
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