upper track wheels looks or performance?

[coug66]

I borrowed this picture to help clarify my question. The top wheel contacting the track is an aftermarket add on correct? Who sells these drop bracket wheels? Where can I find replacements parts for these wheels?

Why are they better than the stock ones? ( big plastic wheels missing in this picture on the spring shaft ) Is it looks or performance?

I had rubbing on the track after it rebounded. i am assuming the bolts in the wrong direction caused the rubbing noise and track wear.


The bolts rubbed a small amount of the track drive lugs off. ( similar to this picture)

The wheels are stiff and I think that the rotation is not in the bearings but around the bolt shaft. Thats why I would like to look for replacements.


Thank you,

Ian

 

[Idcatman3]

The small wheels on the bolt are necessary in this case because of the aftermarket torque links that are on that suspension. They are longer than stock, and without either bigger wheels, or wheels on the bolt, the track would rub on the links.

 

[fishtank]

Dunno man sorry, came like this when I bought it. Some people say its because of the 16" wide track that is installed, you can notice the track rubbing a bit on the edges in the pic above.

 

[1Mike900]

Yes it is for the 16" track but the wheels could be increased to 2.25" dia. PPD wheels rather than a std. bearing race. I used the 2.25" mounted 1" below on the arm. The stock wheels mounted to the arm below allows the track to overtighten when suspension is compressed. This is hard on the front drive bearings and shaft! When they are mounted like they are in the pic it allows the track to go loose when compressed which leads to track stab on a 3" pitch. I placed the wheels 1" down so it would tighten some when compressed but not nearly as much as stock. Some of the SJ brackets were changed to this style with the larger 2.25 or 3.00" wheels to clear the 16" track over the bracket. The way I look at it is the closer in height from the top of the track to the bottom of skid, the more track that will be on the ground if nothing else is changed. Now what does a longer or shorter scissor arm do? More suspension travel? Rixter probably knows! The other thing that should be corrected is the front arm angle is too steep like a '05 M7 and this also overtightens the track. Either raise the back of the arm on the skid, or drop the front in the chassis to the next hole down. Now what would happen if the front shock was mounted on the opposite bracket of the front arm?

Just some food for thought Mike

 

[Rixster]

When I ran my 16 wide I used 8 inch wheels mounted in the stock location. Also, in that pic the brackets on your tunnel don't look like the stock bracket to me.

 

[coug66]

does anyone know where to buy replacement for the bearing wheels up top in the picture?

Mine are stiff and I want the wheels to spin not drag on the track.

Ian

 

[1Mike900]

You will have to remove the bearing, There should be a # along the edge or on the seal. Or you can measure id/od and width to replace with same thing. NAPA should have these stocked! You may be able to get a larger OD with the same ID and be able to clear the bolt head?

 

[fishtank]

Even though this is not my post the pic was from my sled. Here is the other pic of the setup from a different angle.

Those bearings I believe are just 1" race bearings, they appear to be the same bearings as the front drive shaft bearings. I got mine from NAPA in canada for 12 bucks each. A bit cheaper than the 50 bucks the dealer wants. So far ive done about 10 days riding this season and no issues with the NAPA bearings.

 

[Rixster]

From my experience, those bearings wont just come off. I have used a die grinder every time I had to remove some. then just buy new ones.