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Upgrading track on Moto Trax

Anyone with experience on the 2017 AND 2018 kits that can give me an opinion on upgrading from the 2017 2" paddle track to the 2018 2.5" track? They have the 129" listed on the website as close to $900. Just wondering if it would be worthwhile. It is very apparent that my kit is constantly being left behind by the TS ST kits and wondering if the longer paddle helps.

No bashing on the brand is needed or warranted in this post. Just asking about the difference in tracks.

Thank you.
 
Anyone with experience on the 2017 AND 2018 kits that can give me an opinion on upgrading from the 2017 2" paddle track to the 2018 2.5" track? They have the 129" listed on the website as close to $900. Just wondering if it would be worthwhile. It is very apparent that my kit is constantly being left behind by the TS ST kits and wondering if the longer paddle helps.

No bashing on the brand is needed or warranted in this post. Just asking about the difference in tracks.

Thank you.

I rode a 17 enduro last year and the track was definitely lacking.
Compared to a 14 st ts.

If you can keep a good approach angle that really helps. (Rear slider spring)

Have you considered the new cmx 129?
Seems to have some good reviews.
 
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The jump from the 15 ts... Which is that track to the 16 was substantial... But agreed you really have to make sure the set up is right.. the mototrax was really picky.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 
I rode a 17 enduro last year and the track was definitely lacking.
Compared to a 14 st ts.

If you can keep a good approach angle that really helps. (Rear slider spring)

Have you considered the new cmx 129?
Seems to have some good reviews.

I currently have the 17 Enduro as well with all of the updates (most of them I paid for...) No doubt that it does not get around like the other kits. Was hoping that the extra paddle and extra length would help level the playing field a little bit and make this setup last one more season.

Definitely looking at another brand for the next go 'round. CMX, SnowTech, and Camso all look like great options. I like being the odd ball in the group, and will steer clear of TS for that reason.
 
2.5 on mototrax

I have the '17 120 enduro. I had about 70 hrs or so on the 2" stock track when I changed it to a new 2.5 timbersled track. Major improvement. I made a small change to the suspension before the track change which helped a lot but, the 2.5 track was a bigger improvement. I would not be riding this kit this year if I had not upgraded to the 2.5 track. I gained enough momentum with the additional traction that I can now pull 3rd gear on my fx that I struggled to pull with the 2". Also, I never had a track derail but, the timbersled track has drive nubs on both sides of the rails which I think would make it harder for the track to derail. Btw, timbersled track is direct replacement.
 
I have the '17 120 enduro. I had about 70 hrs or so on the 2" stock track when I changed it to a new 2.5 timbersled track. Major improvement. I made a small change to the suspension before the track change which helped a lot but, the 2.5 track was a bigger improvement. I would not be riding this kit this year if I had not upgraded to the 2.5 track. I gained enough momentum with the additional traction that I can now pull 3rd gear on my fx that I struggled to pull with the 2". Also, I never had a track derail but, the timbersled track has drive nubs on both sides of the rails which I think would make it harder for the track to derail. Btw, timbersled track is direct replacement.

I appreciate that input! Good to know, for sure. I have the kit on a WR, and lose traction way before I run out of power. Usually lugging in 3rd just to avoid track spin. Second gear throws a nice rooster tail until I get stuck or turn out.

What else did you modify to the suspension? You had enough clearance with the stock snow deflector in front of the drives?

I had one derailment last season due to the rear pivot arm, and one this year due to a bolt breaking on the skid that allowed one rail to move. (Not really MT fault because it is one I removed and replaced)
 
Anyone with experience on the 2017 AND 2018 kits that can give me an opinion on upgrading from the 2017 2" paddle track to the 2018 2.5" track? They have the 129" listed on the website as close to $900. Just wondering if it would be worthwhile. It is very apparent that my kit is constantly being left behind by the TS ST kits and wondering if the longer paddle helps.

No bashing on the brand is needed or warranted in this post. Just asking about the difference in tracks.

Thank you.

I currently have the 17 Enduro as well with all of the updates (most of them I paid for...) No doubt that it does not get around like the other kits. Was hoping that the extra paddle and extra length would help level the playing field a little bit and make this setup last one more season.

Definitely looking at another brand for the next go 'round. CMX, SnowTech, and Camso all look like great options. I like being the odd ball in the group, and will steer clear of TS for that reason.

If you have an enduro you need a 120 track.

Not a 129 like you mentioned above. (Unless you plan to change rails?)

The 18 Mototrax track and new cmx track both have similar prices, the cmx track you can imagine will be more valuable in years to come.

Keep the old Mototrax track for when you sell the kit. (Value won’t drop $900 lol) Keep the cmx track and put it on a used yeti/cmx/snowtech kit that currently has the maxtrak on it.

But the ts 16+ track is a great option if you can find a used one.
 
If you have an enduro you need a 120 track.

Not a 129 like you mentioned above. (Unless you plan to change rails?)

The 18 Mototrax track and new cmx track both have similar prices, the cmx track you can imagine will be more valuable in years to come.

Keep the old Mototrax track for when you sell the kit. (Value won’t drop $900 lol) Keep the cmx track and put it on a used yeti/cmx/snowtech kit that currently has the maxtrak on it.

But the ts 16+ track is a great option if you can find a used one.

I was thinking of going from the 120 Enduro to the 129 by replacing rails as well. I have a line on some from a guy that went from a 2017 129 to a 2017 137 - but I wanted the 2.5 track because I don't think the added performance with the 2.0 129 would be what I was after. If I can find a 120 TS track, I already know that it will perform better, because the guys I ride with consistently walk away from me in the deep stuff...
 
I didn’t think traction was really my issue last year on the 17 enduro 120. Even in waist deep pow it seemed to get around as well as other kits, but maybe I just don’t know. Maybe my bike was down enough on Power to make it a non issue. But, somehow I don’t think so, my bike is pretty current with Power I think.
 
I appreciate that input! Good to know, for sure. I have the kit on a WR, and lose traction way before I run out of power. Usually lugging in 3rd just to avoid track spin. Second gear throws a nice rooster tail until I get stuck or turn out.

What else did you modify to the suspension? You had enough clearance with the stock snow deflector in front of the drives?

I had one derailment last season due to the rear pivot arm, and one this year due to a bolt breaking on the skid that allowed one rail to move. (Not really MT fault because it is one I removed and replaced

Ref mods to suspension, my kit was a trenching poor deep snow performing setup out of the box. I worked on the rear slide joint attempting to push the front of the rails down to get more track on the ground and reduce trenching. Initially I put a 5/8 thick rubber bumper/stop on the front end of the slide joint that held more pressure on the front of the rails. That small change made a big positive difference. When that bumper finally came out due to pounding I noticed a reduction in traction within a couple minutes. I now have a light spring on the rear of the joint just to reduce hammering and a longer bolt with a spacer and heavy (like a valve spring) at the front of the joint. On flat ground in order for the front of the rails to come up the rear arm must compress this heavy spring. This additional down pressure at the front of the rail made it much better in the deep. Now I can sometimes push or pull it out of a hole that I could not get out of without help prior to the mod. I feel with this mod and the 2.5 track it is as good in the deep as my 16 120 TS. I actually prefer it now cause it leans more like a bike than the ts.

Ref the snow deflector, I removed it even though I think the 2.5 cleared it.
 
Thanks dooman... I'll have to look for a heavier spring to put in front of the pivot arm slide. I have the one Moto Trax supplied on the backside, but I can see your point in how having a heavier spring would help.

What kind of life are you getting out of the plastic bushing in that slide joint? Seems like I am replacing mine more often that I would like. (Twice a season?)
 
Thanks dooman... I'll have to look for a heavier spring to put in front of the pivot arm slide. I have the one Moto Trax supplied on the backside, but I can see your point in how having a heavier spring would help.

What kind of life are you getting out of the plastic bushing in that slide joint? Seems like I am replacing mine more often that I would like. (Twice a season?)

That xxxxxxx bushing! I've replaced it four times. Two aluminum, two plastic. I have two grease fittings on it and grease nearly every ride. That joint/bushing is obviously a weak point. When you lean the bike the female portion of the joint changes its' angle with the male portion which can't articulate to accomadate the changing angle creating a binding under load that quickly wears the bushing. The bushings always wear in the same spot because of this binding. I think that a heim joint on the cross shaft and a longer male (shaft) and female (bushing) portion would drastically improve longevity of this problem area while reducing the derailing caused by worn out bushings.
 
That xxxxxxx bushing! I've replaced it four times. Two aluminum, two plastic. I have two grease fittings on it and grease nearly every ride. That joint/bushing is obviously a weak point. When you lean the bike the female portion of the joint changes its' angle with the male portion which can't articulate to accomadate the changing angle creating a binding under load that quickly wears the bushing. The bushings always wear in the same spot because of this binding. I think that a heim joint on the cross shaft and a longer male (shaft) and female (bushing) portion would drastically improve longevity of this problem area while reducing the derailing caused by worn out bushings.

Sounds like a good idea. Let me know once you have invented it and have it ready for sale to the public! Ha ha!

I've got a Convex track on it's way, so hoping to give it a go next week. Truly appreciate your input on that as I would have wasted time and money going another route and still not had the performance I was after.
 
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