Upgrading stator on 2017 KTM 450sx-f

[snowdaze]

Anyone have experience upgrading their 2016-2017 KTM 450sx-f to the the Trailtech 80w upgraded stator from the OEM 25w stator?

I’m curious if the increase in wattage from the new stator is enough to blow out the stock regulator/rectifier, and it’s necessary to upgrade the regulator/rectifier as well.

Is the system three phase or single phase so I can troubleshoot diode connectivity/continuity issues in my current regulator/stator system.

Also wondering if the two yellow wires from the stator that connect to the two yellow wires on the regulator/rectifier matter which one they get hooked up to, or since both are yellow/yellow that you can hook it up to either or, and not worry about positive/negative.

If you’re wondering why I’m even going this route when I could just use the raze heated handlebars...you’re probably right..

Thank you in advance, this forum has been so much help in getting my snowbikes setup.

 

[Snowbikenewbie]

Not much help here with the stator question. With the LED lights these days and the raze bars I saw no need to upgrade the stock stator on my rx. I also think the coolant heated bars are much better and more reliable than electric but that’s just my opinion.

 

[snowdaze]

Well just to keep it easy, I put the multimeter on the battery while it was running with the 80w stator installed, and low and behold, the volts stayed at around 13.1 instead of climbing to 14.4v.
So then I took the new 80w stator out, and installed the original OEM and put the multimeter to the battery again while running, and had the battery raise to 13.73v from 13.1, but wouldn't climb any higher.

So still trying to figure out if the regulator/rectifier is smoked, or the brand new stator is faulty, but none the less, making a little progress.

 

[coryf89]

my bike is the same...constant fking electrical/starting issues.

first I thought it was the lithium ion battery, so I installed a lead Yuasa one. still wont start when slightly cold -5 or -10. so I boost it.. starts fine, idles for 10 minutes while I gear up, shes nice and warm. turn it off while I finish getting ready, then it wont turn back on. might need to get ridden and not just idled to charge the battery?

then when riding, I cant run the headlight AND heated grips on max at the same time or it wont charge my battery. drops from 13.9 to 13.3 with both of those on.

so im in the same boat and wondering if a larger stator will fix my problem, or wtf is going on here. really sick of needing to boost my bike every ride. been out 10 times and seriously have prob boosted my bike 30 times total.

 

[kmkommes]

The stock stator is 75 watts (specs from KTM).
Stock stator is single phase.
Yellow wire polarity does not matter.
What battery do you have? What voltage is it when not running?
Did you try revving the bike at all to see if it would charge at a higher RPM?

OEM stator is big enough for either heated grips or lights.

If you want heated grips and a fan and lots of big bright lights swap to an EXC stator.

https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1220766-2016-17-450-sx-f-xc-f-oem-stator-flywheel-upgrade/

 

[BendBrapp]

I thought the 17’ 450 sxf had a 35w stator stock. I had mine rewound by Baja Designs to 90w. I run AME heated grips, Cyclops big light, and went up to the xcf factory lithium battery.

I have not had an electrical issue or starting issue. Never needed to use my jumper pack.

 

[coryf89]

I could have gone a different route, but between a new battery, this external jumper, and the booster pack im $400 deep and still cant start on -15 morning.

these external jumpers are well worth the $60 though... quick boost from the jumper in the box in the skid and im off in the morning.


still would like to confidently run heated grips and LED light at the same time. those raze bars may be the way to go. ugh. havnt needed them yet though and have ridden at -30 so.....

 

[snowdaze]

The stock stator is 75 watts (specs from KTM).
Stock stator is single phase.
Yellow wire polarity does not matter.
What battery do you have? What voltage is it when not running?
Did you try revving the bike at all to see if it would charge at a higher RPM?

OEM stator is big enough for either heated grips or lights.

If you want heated grips and a fan and lots of big bright lights swap to an EXC stator.

https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1220766-2016-17-450-sx-f-xc-f-oem-stator-flywheel-upgrade/

kmkommes, thank you for the clarification on the single phase, and wire polarity. I have a brand new Earth X battery in there, some new LiIon battery they just came out with that has 220CCA, which I thought, for that amount of cold cranking amps I was willing to try it even if it is LiIon. It's been fantastic up to this point, even in Oregon cold 10F temps. When I started this thread battery was most likely resting at 13.3v or something, now has a full charge and was up to 14.3 after charged.

I ended up on the phone with Trailtech, and they were super helpful walking me through some diagnosis with the multimeter. I disconnected the yellow leads and the other connector. Set the multimeter to Ohms/200 setting. Connected leads from multimeter to two yellow wires from stator to check for continuity, and got reading of 1.9, or thereabouts. This was good. Then disconnected one lead from a yellow wire and touched the lead to the engine case and also got a reading, that was my problem. The stator had a short in it so any electricity that should have been flowing through the yellow wires to charge the system were getting grounded out.

There were no obvious signs of exposed wires, so I ended up sending the stator back and they are going to diagnose it. When the stator is tightened down to the cover, those two yellow wires do rest between the inside of the stator cover, and the stator itself, so maybe they got pinched, and even though there was no obvious sign of wire exposure, possibly was jumping and grounding out.

An interesting thing to note with all this and claimed stator wattage output, is that when a stator manufacturer claims it's 80w, it may in fact be a higher wattage. For example, Trailtech claims the stator I purchased to have 80w of useable power, and that it has some (unspecified) amount of extra wattage built in to power the bikes existing EFI system and charge the battery. When I first started down this road, I found a Baja Designs stator chart that claimed OEM stator for the 16-17 KTM sx-f 450 was 25w. Be that 25w of extra useable power, or 25w all together is only a guess. So for this application, the Trailtech 80w stator will power my 25w Cyclops Explorer & my 45w Ame grips, leaving me with 10w of extra power for my led tail light I rigged up, and they have accounted for whatever the bike needs to run in the first place.

My other comment above about using the old stator, and then it not charging the battery past a certain point while running could have been an anomoly, after trying a few more times, it would seem to get stuck around 13.3, or 13.7, then slowly start to climb to 14.1 or 14.3.

 

[snowdaze]

I could have gone a different route, but between a new battery, this external jumper, and the booster pack im $400 deep and still cant start on -15 morning.

these external jumpers are well worth the $60 though... quick boost from the jumper in the box in the skid and im off in the morning.


still would like to confidently run heated grips and LED light at the same time. those raze bars may be the way to go. ugh. havnt needed them yet though and have ridden at -30 so.....

-30!!!! dude, that is cold, you are hardcore, no grip warmers, you Canadians are a different breed! I'm curious what temps your engine is running at with ambient temps that cold. Maybe some guys who run the Raze bars can comment on what engine temps those bars seem to be effective at.

For example, I have Drifters Engine Jackets, Thermo-Bob with bypass, Radiator Shields, and when it's been 10F and super deep POW, the hottest my engine temps have been consistently is 120.

Good luck on the bike setup, the external leads for jumping are key, I run a similar setup on mine, but use the NOCO brand jumper / jumper leads to battery.

 

[coryf89]

-30!!!! dude, that is cold, you are hardcore, no grip warmers, you Canadians are a different breed! I'm curious what temps your engine is running at with ambient temps that cold. Maybe some guys who run the Raze bars can comment on what engine temps those bars seem to be effective at.

For example, I have Drifters Engine Jackets, Thermo-Bob with bypass, Radiator Shields, and when it's been 10F and super deep POW, the hottest my engine temps have been consistently is 120.

Good luck on the bike setup, the external leads for jumping are key, I run a similar setup on mine, but use the NOCO brand jumper / jumper leads to battery.

-30 was xmas eve. ski broke off and bike overheated and died. so 10pm at night im waist deep in a water crossing with 4 guys pulling my destroyed machine through a creek. I thought I was going to die.

Ive got a trailtech digital temp gauge. it ran around 50-70C which is 150F avg I think.

just this last ride was slow and I seen 230F. warm and sunny out, playing in the trees.

insane info on the stator BTW. im thinking of upgrading mine. my electric heat demon heaters on high and LED dont play nice with either battery ive used so far. hmmm.

 

[assaultn]

I could have gone a different route, but between a new battery, this external jumper, and the booster pack im $400 deep and still cant start on -15 morning.

these external jumpers are well worth the $60 though... quick boost from the jumper in the box in the skid and im off in the morning.


still would like to confidently run heated grips and LED light at the same time. those raze bars may be the way to go. ugh. havnt needed them yet though and have ridden at -30 so.....

Snowbike towed behind a Jetta.... love it!


If having battery draw issues, try checking if there is slight voltage going to your fuel pump when the bike is sitting. I was having the same issue and found that I had low voltage constantly going to the pump. The bike would also be a pain in the *** to start in the cold. Ended up being that the switchgear in the ECU was stuck and allowing voltage flow to the pump when sitting and when real cold would not let the full voltage to the pump while cranking. When the ECU was warmer it would fully engage the fuel pump. Was kinda like a sticky relay when cold. Changed ECU and batteries would hold charge and started 100x better. Worth checking. Took me quite a while to figure mine out.