Depends on how much your wanting to spend. But the first mod should be a new track. CE or Powerclaw. single best mod you can do besides boost.
Last edited by a moderator:
Upgrading from a 15" Maveric to a 16" Camoplast Extreme??
- Thread starter philsummers21
- Start date
Depends on how much your wanting to spend. But the first mod should be a new track. CE or Powerclaw. single best mod you can do besides boost.
This is a fact! A new track will make a huge difference in the fluffy stuff!
Walden - Honestly if you only ride once or twice a year at elevation then I wouldn't even worry about it. The supertips aren't a quick change for adjustments, they are just an easy way to adjust the weights when you have the primary clutch apart. The shockwave is built for quick adjustments when you ride. You loosen an allen screw, and turn the helix in or out, tighten allen screw and ride away. Quick and easy to adjust, but you shouldn't do all of your adjustments with the shockwave. From what I've read it seems like it is best used for fine tuning to get your RPMs spot on.
P
pylon
Well-known member
a new track is a must for these units ! almost any track is an upgrade from the mavrick that comes stock. The 162 x16x2.5 is the best but a camo or powder claw off a cat is a cheep upgrade as well . When moving up to a 16 inch wide track you need to change drop brackets as well. i think there around 150 $ and shed 8 pounds . also some bolt grinding inside the tunnel is needed to fit the 16 inch track . also id look at a performance package from some one (clutching power commander pipe and air box ) . that way every thing works together
Really?
You think a new track would make THAT big of a difference against the track that came with the 2010 SE ???
So the stock sled came with a "Single-ply Camoplast Maverick, in.15 in X 162 in X 2.25 in"
And you are saying the BEST would be 1 inch wider and only 1/4 inch deeper lugs??
Stay with your stock track, the 2010 version works well, not as good as the 2.4 CE but way better than previous versions. The 16 wide on the Nytro affects the handling big time.
I did the excell full exhaust and it made a huge difference. I needed a lot of weight to get the RPM's back to stock.
Do the full exhaust and clutching and you will have a fun sled.
I did the excell full exhaust and it made a huge difference. I needed a lot of weight to get the RPM's back to stock.
Do the full exhaust and clutching and you will have a fun sled.
While the "new" Maverick might be a little better than the old one, it is still a Maverick. The pattern of the lugs on the track just likes to trench. I put a 162 x 15 x 2.5 CE Extreme on my 2010 after 99 miles of the Maverick. Spendy upgrade on a 12k sled, but really, I mean really made a huge difference.
Clutching on an N/A Nytro in the back country is a huge deal. What you want is a lower RPM engagement, a smoother upshift and a good backshift. You'd be amazed at the difference that it makes. Yamaha, in my opinion, had their head up their you know what when they clutched the Nytro MTX's. Too long to engage, too hard when it does, not very good backshift. All of this leads to the sled feeling even more underpowered than it is and extra pulling on the ski loops.
Add an instrument panel vent to your list as well. You wouldn't believe the heat that comes off the top of that motor
And to anyone else reading this, take an avalanche class this summer. The conditions out there this year across a broad section of the Rockies were more than ripe for catatrophe. Learn it, live it, save your life for another day.
scmurs
Chris i would almost be willing to bet you that if you changed your stock track to a Camo Extreme 15x153 or 162 with 2.5" lug and you didnt feel it made a huge difference id buy the track from you for full price. As far as other mods it really depends on what your planning on down the road. And it all depends on your price range on what to get first. If boost is an option i wouldnt worry about a header. My mods if i were you would be in this order. TRACK - 700ish, Nitrous - 800, OFT Relocator, MtnVipers rollover kit, SKIs, Undertunnel exhaust (shaves alot of weight), lightweight battery
Just going back over my long list of what I was going to get done over the summer and I am still looking at that new track.
Right now the sled has
Track/Width x Length x Height / in.
15 in X 162 in X 2.25 in
Can that really be upgraded to a 16 inch without tunnel modification?
Seems like the 15 is pretty snug in there.
Right now the sled has
Track/Width x Length x Height / in.
15 in X 162 in X 2.25 in
Can that really be upgraded to a 16 inch without tunnel modification?
Seems like the 15 is pretty snug in there.
I've haven't done it yet but I hear you need the lightweight drop brackets to fit the 16 wide track.
So.
I extracted all of the previous posts from another thread, and copied them over here to make a clean thread on upgrading from the stock Nytro Maveric Track to the Camoplast Extreme.
I extracted all of the previous posts from another thread, and copied them over here to make a clean thread on upgrading from the stock Nytro Maveric Track to the Camoplast Extreme.
Last edited:
So just what exactly is required to upgrade to a 16" wide track?
"Some Bolt Head Grinding" ??
"New Lightweight Drop Brackets" ??
The brackets might be a game ender for me, as the new Skinz Air Frame Boards are pretty dependent on the old drop brackets as a mounting point for the rear end of the boards. I suppose it would depend a whole lot on how the new brackets interface.
"Some Bolt Head Grinding" ??
"New Lightweight Drop Brackets" ??
The brackets might be a game ender for me, as the new Skinz Air Frame Boards are pretty dependent on the old drop brackets as a mounting point for the rear end of the boards. I suppose it would depend a whole lot on how the new brackets interface.
If you plan on doing it, talk to skinz and find out if you can utilize lightweight drop brackets. I would assume you should be able to. Then take a peice of cardboard exactly 16" wide and run it through the tunnel where the track travels. If you see anything that is tight or that is stopping the cardboard from going through that's what needs to be ground down. I haven't done it on a nytro but I have done it to my ZX pictured in my avatar. Of course I didn't buy new drop brackets I just ground down the ribs on the existing ones
.-Justin
Question is.
HOW much free room do you need on each side of the track in the tunnel.
the 16" cardboard sheet fits, but its SNUG in many places.
HOW much free room do you need on each side of the track in the tunnel.
the 16" cardboard sheet fits, but its SNUG in many places.
in my nytro I have run the 16 wide since day one. You have a 1/8 inch to 3/16 th per side. It works fine but you have to make sure you smooth everything down or flip rivots around that will be in the way. And yes the off set stock drop brackets wont work, you need something that lays flat.
So what exactly did you do on the inside of your tunnel to "SMOOTH" everything down?
How the heck do you smooth out a rivet without compromising it's strength??
You can grind down the rivets or you can drill them out and put new ones in but the opposite direction, so the rivet is flush on the inside of the tunnel. The rivet breaks off and leaves a lot of un-used metal sitting there that doesn't do a whole lot for strength. Getting ride of that excess is what we are talking about. If you don't feel comfortable with it you can do it the "right" way and drill them and put them in reverse like I said above.
That would certainly make for a "Funky" looking tunnel with all the rivet tails sticking on the outside!
haha no doubt. Luckily and unluckily most all of the rivets that needed to be switched on my ZX were near the driveshaft so they were all invisible but thus a bigger pain in the arse!
Similar threads
