The farther out the limiter strap, the more the front of the rails pushes down... this helps to unweight the front end.
If you noticed more steering effort, this will help...
But with everything, there is a trade off... the front end will lift more on WOT in a steep climb. Also, the angle of attack of the track is increased... the sled will not get up on top of the snow as easily as if the strap is sucked up.
A lot of this depends on rider weight, handlbar/riser position, ski shock preload and proper lenght, Rider position, snow type etc.
In deep snow... better to suck up the strap, the benefits of the flotation outweigh any heavy steering.
Everything adjusted has a cost and a benefit.
Limiter Strap Adjustment
One method of changing ski-to-snow pressure is to change the
length of the front limiter straps.
• Lengthening the straps decreases ski pressure under
acceleration.
• Shortening the straps increases ski pressure under
acceleration.
Set up Recommendations for Optimum Performance
(RMK / Switchback Rear Suspensions)
• DEEP POWDER SNOW: Limiter strap in LOW
position for maximum lift and flotation
• POWDER-HARDPACK: Limiter strap in STANDARD
position for overall handling and speed over snow.
• HARDPACK: Limiter strap in HIGH position for
increased control and less transfer
IMO.. the 225 lb FTS spring in the 600 is a bit of overkill for all but the Hefty guys.
You can play with the upper shock moutning position..
From Holz Racing on thier supspension.. This applies to the stock skid
Every time the limit strap length is changed, the spring retainer should be loosened until the spring is fully
extended (zero pre-load) then tightened two turns. Shortening the limit straps without adjusting the spring retainer has the same
effect as increasing the pre-load. Riding with excessive pre-load will cause excessive trenching regardless of limit strap length.
Excessive pre-load may also result in coil-bind which will damage suspension parts. Pre-loading the spring more than
recommended will result in coil-bind which will destroy suspension parts and consequently void the warranty.
There are two options for installation of the upper end of the front shock to the upper portion of the front torque-arm—an upper hole and a lower hole. The upper hole makes
the shock stiffer, and gives you more weight transfer. The lower hole makes the shock softer and will offer less weight transfer.
I hope the dealer wasn't the one who put things in backward because that's who I purchased the sled from! 
