Twisted M1000, Smoked my Rectifier

[Arctic Thunder]

Man that sounds bad.

Here's the deal.

I was working on a splice into my 12v wires for my fuel pump. I want to charge my fuel system with a 9v or 12v battery before I pull on the rope when it's real cold. So I cut the two wires, splice into it with another set of wires, I put a 12v battery from my four wheeler on it and the pump ran, sounded like it was under a pretty good load, then I had that wonderful smell of burnt wires and a small puff of smoke from my AC-DC gbpc25005 rectifier. So Crap! I cut the wires back off and make a direct connection. So now I have a butt connector that I unplug to prime the pump. This works really good. That way I don't have to worry about back feeding the capacitor or frying the rectifier. So I get it primed, and hooked up. Start the sled and my power is bouncing around, headlight is acting weird, fuel pressure was up and down, not holding, then again smoke from the rectifier. At this point EVERYTHING is just like it was for the last 1000 miles. So all I did was unmount the rectifier from the sled, started it to feel the temp and it worked like it should, no heat, power was solid. So whats the deal? (maybe a short from the aluminum back of the rectifier to the sled chassis?)

I will ask Stanger tomorrow but thought I would pick a few brains here. And in the process get it solved, that way down the road if someone else has a problem they can maybe find the answer here.

As of right now I will buy me a new one for under $3 bucks, and I think I will put a rubber backing behind the new one on the chassis to keep them from touching.

Thanks

Thunder

 

[Polarisrocks]

You have to add a diode so it doesn't back feed to the stator or the rest of the electrical system. There is a few 3amp diodes sold at racio shack that work great..I doubled 2 up and soldered them together at the ends and made a spare for back up. With the diode the sleds beaper hooked to the one side of the diode it will charge the battery. and wont back feed anything. hook the pump directly to the battery and the other side of the diode and ground it out and your golden..

Jim

 

[Arctic Thunder]

You have to add a diode so it doesn't back feed to the stator or the rest of the electrical system. There is a few 3amp diodes sold at racio shack that work great..I doubled 2 up and soldered them together at the ends and made a spare for back up. With the diode the sleds beaper hooked to the one side of the diode it will charge the battery. and wont back feed anything. hook the pump directly to the battery and the other side of the diode and ground it out and your golden..

Jim

So Jim, do you think when I made my first attempt and put the 12v power spliced into the line from the rectifier to the pump that I backfed the rectifier damaging it? The only thing I can think of.

Now that I have a actual disconnect in the line that will never happen again, just wondering if my first attempt caused the problem.

Thanks

 

[Arctic Thunder]

Well, I think I am screwed. And at this point out $4.75 for a new rectifier.

Found this bit of info online. From the sounds of it a rectifier will not tolerate reverse polarity at all. OOPS!

Remove the rectifier wires from the terminal block. Using a ohm meter, connect the black lead of the ohm meter to the rectifier base (ground), then one by one, connect the red lead of the ohm meter to the yellow, yellow/gray, then the red wire (some rectifiers may also have a fourth yellow/blue wire. If so connect to that also). Now, reverse the ohm meter leads and check those same wires again. You should get a reading in one direction, and none at all in the other direction.

Now, connect the black lead of the ohm meter to the red wire. One by one, connect the red lead of the ohm meter to the yellow, yellow/gray, and if present, the yellow/blue wire. Then reverse the leads, checking the wires again. Once more, you should get a reading in one direction and none in the other.

Note that the reading obtained from the red rectifier wire will be lower then what is obtained from the other wires.

Any deviation from the "Reading", "No Reading" as above indicates a faulty rectifier. Note that a rectifier will not tolerate reverse polarity. Simply touching the battery with the cables in the reverse order or hooking up a battery charger backwards will blow the diodes in the rectifier assy immediately.

Symptoms of a low battery are that it simply will not crank the engine fast enough to have the stator engage the ignition properly.

The fast idle may simply be a misadjusted throttle cable at its clamping area at the engine or other misadjustments... something to be looked at later.

There is no intended relationship between the rectifier and the igniton system.

The battery charge question.... That creates no problem UNLESS you accidently hook the charger up backwards. Reverse polarity will blow the rectifier instantly.

 

[Polarisrocks]

Which regulator did you fry? Is it the original 09 ac regulator or the ccu from an 07-08? Or is the ac/dc conversion regulator? If its the conversion kit, its just a 08 ccu with a special harness..

I am not sure how you fried it... Ac circuits are very different than dc polarities. I say you need a primer bulb and it start everytime its aas simple as it gets...

 

[Arctic Thunder]

Which regulator did you fry? Is it the original 09 ac regulator or the ccu from an 07-08? Or is the ac/dc conversion regulator? If its the conversion kit, its just a 08 ccu with a special harness..

I am not sure how you fried it... Ac circuits are very different than dc polarities. I say you need a primer bulb and it start everytime its aas simple as it gets...

It is a 50v 25a rectifier that is used from my acc plug on my 09 M1000. I have a high output in tank fuel pump for the extra injectors. The in tank pump is 12v. So they put the rectifier in from the AC accessory plug to convert it to DC to feed the pump and a capacitor.

So it's extra stuff just for my turbo install.

Thunder