first i have an 03 edge 800 verticle escape. so after purchasing a set of twin pipes at a snowshow that fit an "edge" and bringing them home to find out theyre really for a gen2 (01) i bought another set at another snow show that were promised to be for an edge 800. theyre crankshops. i got them all fitted in there but it wasnt easy, had to trim some of the shock tower mount for clutch side pipe, remove all foam. the problem is i closed the hood and the one pipe is freakin close to the hood and one sits on the shock tower. like a half inch close on a front vent. i heat taped the crap out of everything but my buddies have been sayin it shouldnt be that close. emailed crankshop and not the most helpful. i got a page of hand drawn instructions that didnt mention any of the things i had to do. asked for clutching and jetting recomendations and they said they have no idea they only dyno test not field test. not so happy.. so anyone with recomendations for heat tape or opinion if itll melt the hood or not, and jetting and clutching for twins would be greatly appreciated!! thanks!
twin pipe fitment nightmare. HELP PLEASE!
- Thread starter polaris725
- Start date
The fitment sounds normal I had to trim the tower bracket so the headpipe on the clutch side would clear with my psi twins. They are all close to the hood and all sit on the shock tower on the mag side. I would be more concerned with beeing able to make crankshop twins run, they like to heat soke, my opinion is that the stinger diamiter is to small but I am no pipe biulder. I just know from experience we could not mke them work on my buddies 03 escape. I made my psi twins flat rock on my 03 800 edge especially after I had carls cycle port the whole engine. Good luck!
thanks! what do ya mean when you say you couldnt get them to work? power wise im assuming? or just wouldnt run right? kinda bummed to hear that but what the hell ill give em a whirl. what do you think i should clutching and jetting wise? i know yours is ported but seem like you know your stuff. and do the factory hoods hold up ok with that much heat? did you just use reflective tape? appreciate your help
The stock hood will work, I ran it for 1 year like that and only thing that happened was it started to melt the vent up front a little. I then bought a mountain fit hood and they are 2" taller so no issues at all. Also my belly pan started to melt ever so slightly on the inside edge by the shock tower. As far as them not working this was on my friends I never had them on mine. I helped him trying to make them run though. They would run badazz the first run up a hill then after he came down and made another run it would not pull rpm. This happened all year we tried everything from playing with jetting to clutching, even checked for broken motor mounts, engine alignment etc. To confirm it was the pipes I let him put my stock pipe I had laying around on it, we jetted it clutched it and it ran perfect. He ended up running the stock pipe until he bought an slp single for it. I had psi twins on mine and had no issues at all they ran perfect every ride, my other riding partners ran psi and cpi twins with no issues. I also rode with multiple people over the years running slp twins the ran good, just something with the crankshops made them not work. The only physical thing I could see was the outlet diameter was smaller on the crankshops. He bought the sled with them on it so they could have been the wrong ones for all we know. I am not sure if the 700 ones are diferrent than the 800 ones. I know that the psi twins are the same for 700 as they are for 800. Hopfully the work well for you. What elevation are you riding?
thats interesting, thanks for the info. they did tell me the 700 cans are smaller diameter then the 800 ones are maybe he had the wrong ones? i hope.lol man im way suprised they didnt melt the crap out of everything.. seems like theyre close to alot of things. elevation is normally 3500 to 4000 maybe. sometimes i take a trip but not very often
Im guessing you should be around 420 mains at those elevations and the pilots at 37.
I know its not the same, but I have SLP twins on my 04 Edge. I had to trim the clutch side shock tower as well, and my mag side pipe also rests on my mag side shock tower. The pipes are close to the hood, but no melting yet, I just have heat tape on there with no foam anywhere on the hood. I don't think my setup would apply to you as I'm usually riding 9-12k and they're different pipes, but here it is anyway:
-old style 202# cylinders (no decompression holes)
-SLP twin pipes with stinger cans (race pipes? not sure, stinger says for competition use only on it)
-Wiseco Pro Lite Pistons
-SLP yellow VES springs
-Clutch balanced and shimmed by Indy Specialties
-Team bright green primary spring
-10-60 weights
-black/purple Team secondary spring
-64-40 helix
-19/43 gearing
-Flo rites in the dash
-Mo Flo M series shock tower vent
-2Cool edge side vents
-SLP air horn/airbox setup
-one peice engine plate instead of straps
-homemade torque arm
-drilled out PTO bearing oil slot
-stock drivers, stock 159" track (series 4), stock skis, stock suspension all around
-340 mains, actually not sure about needles, but everything looks & runs good
Best of luck with getting your sled setup, this is my first season on my 800 and I'm thoroughly impressed.
-old style 202# cylinders (no decompression holes)
-SLP twin pipes with stinger cans (race pipes? not sure, stinger says for competition use only on it)
-Wiseco Pro Lite Pistons
-SLP yellow VES springs
-Clutch balanced and shimmed by Indy Specialties
-Team bright green primary spring
-10-60 weights
-black/purple Team secondary spring
-64-40 helix
-19/43 gearing
-Flo rites in the dash
-Mo Flo M series shock tower vent
-2Cool edge side vents
-SLP air horn/airbox setup
-one peice engine plate instead of straps
-homemade torque arm
-drilled out PTO bearing oil slot
-stock drivers, stock 159" track (series 4), stock skis, stock suspension all around
-340 mains, actually not sure about needles, but everything looks & runs good
Best of luck with getting your sled setup, this is my first season on my 800 and I'm thoroughly impressed.
thanks guys i appreciate it! at least that gives me a somewhat ballpark.
i didnt know they made different ves springs? whats the theory behind it? notice any change?
how close do your pipes come to the hood goinboardin? and just out of curiosity speaking of drivers..you guys have any ratcheting issues with stock ones? mine ratchets like a mofo and my track is tight at hell. drives are in perfect shape and lugs look fine too.. i dont understand
i didnt know they made different ves springs? whats the theory behind it? notice any change?
how close do your pipes come to the hood goinboardin? and just out of curiosity speaking of drivers..you guys have any ratcheting issues with stock ones? mine ratchets like a mofo and my track is tight at hell. drives are in perfect shape and lugs look fine too.. i dont understand
Haven't had any ratcheting yet, but I've only ridden this sled about 75 miles now and its almost always been in really loose light snow. I have read anti-ratchets are the way to go on these sleds though, maybe next year for me.
My understanding on the lighter VES springs is that at higher altitude there isn't quite enough cylinder pressure to lift the valves open at the same RPM range as at low altitude now all the way open at WOT with the stiffer stock springs. So with the lighter springs the valves open at the correct time and will open completely at WOT, its basically an altitude compensation thing. This is actaully the only 800 sled I've ridden, (only thing comparable would be an 05 900, but thats not a good comparison) so I can't comment on improvements over stock, and same goes for the lack of decompression holes in my cylinders...
As far as pipe clearance, I'll get back to you on that, can't say for sure right now.
My understanding on the lighter VES springs is that at higher altitude there isn't quite enough cylinder pressure to lift the valves open at the same RPM range as at low altitude now all the way open at WOT with the stiffer stock springs. So with the lighter springs the valves open at the correct time and will open completely at WOT, its basically an altitude compensation thing. This is actaully the only 800 sled I've ridden, (only thing comparable would be an 05 900, but thats not a good comparison) so I can't comment on improvements over stock, and same goes for the lack of decompression holes in my cylinders...
As far as pipe clearance, I'll get back to you on that, can't say for sure right now.
thats kinda what ive been hearing too, same here. sounds like a summer project. interesting on the springs i had never even heard of aftermarket ones.
let me know in your clearance id appreciate it. not so stoked about running this thing with the chance of melting my hood right off the bat. doesnt even have a scratch on it.lol
let me know in your clearance id appreciate it. not so stoked about running this thing with the chance of melting my hood right off the bat. doesnt even have a scratch on it.lol
wha octane fuel are you running? will i be ok with 91?
Just a guess on the jetting, but generally you will go up 4-5 sizes with twins vs stock single, and I would raise the needles to be safe in the mids until you can do plug checks.
At the lower elevation you should be fine with the stock EV springs.
At the lower elevation you should be fine with the stock EV springs.
I seem to have the race twins (not sure how different they are from the normal twins), and my stinger is touching my hood, figured this out when I noticed the melted spot on the hood. The mag side pipe is within an inch of the hood but no melting there with the heat tape. I'm rather confident my pipes are positioned correctly too.
I run 91 non-oxygenated fuel, but if I were lower in altitude I'd mix in some race gas for insurance. SLP recommends 1 gallon 108 octane to 4 gallons 91 octane when running twins at 0-3k elevation with the stock head, but says 91 is fine above that altitude or if their head is used. I've read that some people suspect rod bearing failure on these motors is often caused by detonation (from running just past the limit on octane ratings) rather than poor design. Not sure about the validity of that theory, but I'd think twice about running just 91 at lower altitudes because of it. I'm by no means educated about fuel requirements, so hopefully a guru could chime in.
I run 91 non-oxygenated fuel, but if I were lower in altitude I'd mix in some race gas for insurance. SLP recommends 1 gallon 108 octane to 4 gallons 91 octane when running twins at 0-3k elevation with the stock head, but says 91 is fine above that altitude or if their head is used. I've read that some people suspect rod bearing failure on these motors is often caused by detonation (from running just past the limit on octane ratings) rather than poor design. Not sure about the validity of that theory, but I'd think twice about running just 91 at lower altitudes because of it. I'm by no means educated about fuel requirements, so hopefully a guru could chime in.
thanks guys. well i should be alright then if your not melting that close, id say im about the same now and everythigns heat taped. got the carb stuff ready for a test just tryin to find some clutch weights now
thinkin about the mtx's.. with those rivits its kind of like three weights in one
thinkin about the mtx's.. with those rivits its kind of like three weights in onein case anyone had any of the same issues i did i finally have it dialed in. 66g polaris weights with 460 jets(3000ft elev). love the pipes power too!! no melting yet and i rode it pretty hard this wknd. dent the front pipe so you have a little more clearance too
